After reading Mike Phillips thread on restoring single stage paint,I'm ready to admit the
errors of my ways and seek atonement for my aggressive attempt at bringing back a
30 year old repaint.
Thinking that it was a lacquer base paint,I wet sanded it smooth,going from# 600 to #2000
in some heavily rough areas.Everything looked great ,even after using a liquid polishing
compound and then a final carnauba wax top coat.
Well after a couple hours in the sun,it became dull and full of swirls.
I'm guessing my failure to condition the paint was my shortfall,and have applied my first
rubdown with #7 Meguiars,leaving it on for 24 hours.
Hopefully I'm on the right track
I skipped the clay bar cleaning,figuring the wet sanding cleaned the surface enough already.
Is there any thing else I should be doing?
Hers's a couple of shots before I attempted anything.
I love the #7. It does wonders on single stage paints. I use it all the time on clear coats as well and have great results.
If it were me, I'd strip everything off of it that you just did, see how bad the damage is then go from there. If you arent sure on what to do once you see how bad off it is, seek help here. There is someone who will know..
f it were me, I'd strip everything off of it that you just did, see how bad the damage is then go from there. If you arent sure on what to do once you see how bad off it is, seek help here. There is someone who will know..
I'm a little confused here.
Wouldn't the #7 remove the wax and give me a fresh start?
This is a thirty year old Enamel that had a lot of orange peel.
It was wet sanded up to 2000.then I used Turtle wax Rubbing compound with a 7" electric polisher, and applied a carnuaba wax.
Looked good till the sun hit it for a few hours,then it got dull and all the swirls
showed through.
Since then I've let the #7 stay a day,removed the extra,and did a couple more quick applications.
Could I use a swirl remover now to get it a little better and then recondition with the #7,then follow up with a good wax for durability.
Here's the best shot I could get of the present condition.
I'm a little confused here.
Wouldn't the #7 remove the wax and give me a fresh start?
This is a thirty year old Enamel that had a lot of orange peel. It was wet sanded up to 2000.then I used Turtle wax Rubbing compound with a 7" electric polisher, and applied a carnuaba wax.
Looked good till the sun hit it for a few hours,then it got dull and all the swirls
showed through.
Here's the best shot I could get of the present condition.
What tool are you calling a 7" electric polisher. Seems to me either the compound did not do it's job or that it was done in a garage w/o the use of a work light to check progress.
I see more tic marks and rids than I see swirls.
VT
Originally Posted by glen e
....It's all I use these days....they are buffing when I'm relaxing...and still don't get the powder out of canines!
I'm a little confused here.
Wouldn't the #7 remove the wax and give me a fresh start?
This is a thirty year old Enamel that had a lot of orange peel.
It was wet sanded up to 2000.then I used Turtle wax Rubbing compound with a 7" electric polisher, and applied a carnuaba wax.
Looked good till the sun hit it for a few hours,then it got dull and all the swirls
showed through.
Since then I've let the #7 stay a day,removed the extra,and did a couple more quick applications.
Could I use a swirl remover now to get it a little better and then recondition with the #7,then follow up with a good wax for durability.
Here's the best shot I could get of the present condition.
Im new here too but over about two weeks I have learned a good amount, I would suggest that you do clay bar the car to remove cotamination left behind after the sanding and compound that was proablably not effective since it was not applied right with your electric polisher.
The reason is that 7" electric polisher is most likely a aka "wax spreader" READ here: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-spreader.html
U would need to get a DA polisher mate, then if you need something for the swirls use Meguiars Swirl X If you need to get sanding marks or other form of paint correction that does not directly correlate with swirls your safest bet would be Ultimate Compound, Then follow it up with the Consumer version of M205 that is Ultimate Polish. First you want perform Mikes Test Spot link: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-polisher.html also explains how to use a DA polisher.
Then after you have compound and polished your car and you like the finish that you got and are pleased finish it of with your choice of sealant, Hope it was not to confusing please bear with me im new here and sure others will give better info. your really have come to the right place. oh and forgot give it a wash with some dawn if you want to remove the old wax/sealant and polish and please only use it for removing the wax/sealant and not a daily thing. Cheers. And Welcome Aboard.
When you have to make a choice and don't make it, that is in itself a choice. ~William James
I'm going to try a more aggressive approach with my VS sander/polisher.
Like I said before,this is a 30 year old re-paint,If that doesn't take it to a better
finish,maybe I'm looking at bad prep work before the re-paint.
I see more tic marks and rids than I see swirls.
Guess I need to read up a bit more.What are and causes tic marks and rids?
Holy cow, I read this fast--but it sounds like your problem is the Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound. That stuff is likely rocks in a can, and you couldn't break it down with your "wax spreader".
Getting more aggressive isn't the answer, you need the proper approach. You need to get something like some Meguiar's 80-series polishes or I guess you can use the newer SMAT on single stage paint.
Thinking that it was a lacquer base paint,I wet sanded it smooth,going from# 600 to #2000 in some heavily rough areas. Everything looked great ,even after using a liquid polishing compound and then a final carnauba wax top coat.
Well after a couple hours in the sun,it became dull and full of swirls.
I'm guessing my failure to condition the paint was my shortfall,and have applied my first rubdown with #7 Meguiars,leaving it on for 24 hours.
Hopefully I'm on the right track I skipped the clay bar cleaning,figuring the wet sanding cleaned the surface enough already.
Is there any thing else I should be doing?
Hers's a couple of shots before I attempted anything.
My article about restoring antique and original single stage paints is about how to condition the paint before you work on it because all too often old and antique single stage paints oxidize, dry out and become brittle.
First, are you confident that you're working on single stage paint? Did see color coming off when you wetsanded?
Second of all, regardless of whether the paint is single stage or basecoat/clearcoat, after you sand you normally need to use a rotary buffer with a wool pad and a compound to remove your sanding marks.
An old fashioned traditional orbital buffer like this doesn't have the power to remove sanding marks, at least not effectively.
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Third, if the paint is single stage and it is old or original, sanding is not normally the first option as it removes a lot of precious and thin paint.
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Originally Posted by glen e
Re: Wish I Found This Site Earlier!!!
your really have come to the right place. oh and forgot give it a wash with some dawn if you want to remove the old wax/sealant and polish and please only use it for removing the wax/sealant and not a daily thing. Cheers. And Welcome Aboard.
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