What am I doing wrong?

[Widowmaker[X]]

Hey guys,

I'm attempting to remove swirls on my bright red '06 Mustang, but unfortunately I'm not seeming to have much luck at all.

I'm using a PC7424XP. I started out with PB SSR1 on an LC white pad, which failed to remove much at all. I bumped up to SSR 2.5 on an LC white, then an LC orange pad, and all that seemed to do was leave me with even more swirls, even after following up with the SSR1 again. It's bumming me out!

Sample pic, after SSR 2.5 then SSR1...


As a comparison, here is a panel that I did not touch...


If anything, I feel as though I made things worse!

I washed, dried, and clayed before attempting the polish. I'm set on speed 5 on my PC as recommended, and I timed myself at about 3-4 minutes of polishing before removing. The polish starts to powder a bit (which I assume means it's breaking down?)

I'm using (what I consider) moderate pressure (the pad is rotating slowly, maybe 2 RPM's per second visually). I'm keeping my pads as clean as possible (using a terry towel). I am working outside, but I don't feel as though that should affect the results this much...

So what am I doing wrong here? Any help is greatly appreciated!

[mjlinane]

Welcome to AGO!!

I am not familiar with the PB polishes but, if it is starting to dust, sounds like you are working it too long. When it is broken down, it will look oily/creamy or like nothing at all.

Try slow arm speed and cut back to say a minute and look at what that gets you.

[BobbyG]

To Autogeek Online!

I'm afraid I don't have any experience with PoorBoy's World polishes but here's what they say about 2.5.

SSR2.5

SSR2.5 is more than a polish but less than a compound. Rather than just cleaning the surface paint like a polish, it removes light to moderate imperfections to improve the paint’s texture. Unlike a compound that removes flaws but requires the use of a fine polish afterwards, SSR2.5 corrects and refines the paint in one step. You get the best of both worlds in one bottle!

It sounds like you could need a more aggressive product. Even though SSR2.5 and SSR3.0 appear to be close in numericly their descriptions are quite a bit different.

SSR3

This compound contains heavy duty abrasives and unique cleaners that exfoliate badly damaged paint to reveal a fresh, clean layer. It’s far too tough for light blemishes. SSR3 is for rough, pitted paint that is on the brink of irreparable. Consider it your vehicle’s last hope. In most cases, SSR3 will restore your paint to a uniform texture and color. An application of SSR1 will refine the paint to a perfectly smooth luster. Once you apply a coat of wax, your paint will look dramatically improved, if not perfect.

From the photos you attached it looks like you're making progress but not quite there yet. I would try something a little more aggressive and you should see some improvement...

[Widowmaker[X]]

Thanks for the welcomes! I've creeped on this forum for a long time but only recently joined. Lots of great tips here!

Although I know little about polishing, I certainly don't consider the condition of my paint bad enough to meet the requirements for SSR3.

The appearance is difficult to portray in photographs. After polishing the paint just appears hazy and flat. Getting real close to it, I can see a ton of tiny scratches that I can only assume came from the DA itself.

Maybe I am working the polish too long, which is causing it to dry out and therefore mar the surface?

Oh, and as far as my pressure on the polisher goes, how fast should the pad itself be rotating? I have a mark on the backing plate so I can see the rotation, but I'm curious if more or less pressure would help me.

[wgilles]

Even though the condition may not be that bad, the clear coat might be too hard for the product you are working with. For example...I recently did a red Shelby Cobra replica that wasn't in bad shape, but I had to use a fairly aggressive product to get the swirls out. If done correctly, you aren't going to hurt the paint using a more aggressive product.

[5.4 Shelby]

Sounds like you are either not working long enough or too long. Underworking a polish can leave the surface hazy due to not breaking down the diminishing abrasives long enough.

Overworking can leave it hazy and marred due to dry polishing.

I would recommend going to local store and picking up some Meguiars Ultimate Compound. It is a SMAT product and does not require being thoroughly broken down. You can stop polishing at any time (without going too long) and get great results. This takes the not working long enough factor out of it.

Once you get the hang of that, then maybe go back to the Poorboys and learn how to use it.

btw, the paint on my Mustang is really hard and can take a lot of compounding to get the swirls out.

[Widowmaker[X]]

Wow quick responses here!

Good info Shelby I have heard that Ford paints are on the harder side but I guess I didn't want to believe it...

What pad would you recommend using with the UC? I actually have some lying around that I can try out...

[Mike Phillips]

What pad would you recommend using with the UC? I actually have some lying around that I can try out...

UC is very versatile, you can use it for what you want to do with a polishing pad...

Cutting pad for aggressive work.

[Mike Phillips]

As for buffing to a dry buff... check out this article,

Wet Buffing Technique


Wet film behind your path-of-travel

[5.4 Shelby]

Wow quick responses here!

Good info Shelby I have heard that Ford paints are on the harder side but I guess I didn't want to believe it...

What pad would you recommend using with the UC? I actually have some lying around that I can try out...

Without sounding like a broken record, always do a test spot and start with the least aggressive. Therefore, I would start with a white LC polishing pad (or equivalent). If that does not work well enough, try the orange. At this point, I would avoid yellow pads.

Another thing to consider would be the Megs Microfiber DA system. Absolutely love it. I would consider it a correction and not maintenance. Once you have corrected the paint, then maintain with good washing and drying techniques. Then occasionally clean up the swirls with something less aggressive like Meg M205 (or Swirl X) or even Menzerna PO85rd (or whatever the new number is) on foam pads.

Let us know how this works out for you. I dont read posts everyday, but, I will try to keep an eye out for this thread.