Orange peel and wetsanding

[zckid]

Hi folks

My uncle had a Toyota Corolla for resale. The car had been resprayed and was covered with Orange Peel. But looking at it from close range, it appeared more like CROCODILE PEEL










I asked my uncle if I could correct the same. He said NO as the car would be sent to the bodyshop at the former owner’s expense.


The car arrived home late and I had very limited time. I thought of taking the pictures and post for advice. But the car would be gone till then.

I was to try something, even a small section would do.

So I grabbed 2 sheets of sand paper (1500 + 2000), let it soaked overnight. Early in the morning the next day, I started with the fender when everyone else was dreaming.





Wetsanding complete




Some correction with Menz PG on LC orange CCS







Look at some parts i've missed. Unfortunately i had limited time, had to go to So, couldn't afford correcting it.



Polishing with Menz 203s on LC white pad. And finally refining with PO85rd on LC black pad





I had some scares though when I tried to remove some deeper sanding marks. I moved back to PG on the orange pad for the spot correction. The panel got hot and a small area 2” by 3” appeared completely dull as if the clear had gone. I was red. “God, help me!” was all I whispered.


I mist the area with ONR, let it cool down, continued working the adjacent section. When it was cool, I skipped polishing, went directly with PO85rd on the LC black pad, speed 1-2.5). Thanks God! It came out really nice. Even the light circular rotating marks were not to be found in that area. May be the lube helped. Next time, I’ll try working on smaller areas with ONR and see what happens (using the light to the maximum)





Well, it started raining, and heavily





My sun gun got wet too

Moved the car inside


A reflection on the fender




Some pics when I returned from work








Look at the orange peel on the hood. In many places, it was worse.

I felt a bit gutted because the car would be leaving.



I'd like to have your thoughts on these:

1. Would priming a pad avoid buffing marks during the finishing stage, or put it differently, would a dry pad ot too little polish cause these light circular marks??

2. After wetsanding, would a yellow pad be more effective than the LC orange one?

3. what about using the wool pad that comes with the Makita? (Never tried it) or is better to invest in the LC wool pads?


(btw I'm using the makita rotary only. No DA polisher now, may be next year.)


Thanks for viewing.

Your comments and advice are welcome as always.


Zaid

[Kristopher1129]

Nice job man. IMO, if you've got the Makita...I always go to a wool pad after sanding. But, if you're going to choose between orange or yellow...I'd go with yellow to follow up sanding. Wool pad will cut through those etchings quicker IMO though. Everybody has their own method.

[Dan C]

Thats some time consuming work,what would you charge to do entire car(sand, compound, and polish)

[zckid]

Nice job man. IMO, if you've got the Makita...I always go to a wool pad after sanding. But, if you're going to choose between orange or yellow...I'd go with yellow to follow up sanding. Wool pad will cut through those etchings quicker IMO though. Everybody has their own method.

thanks a lot Kristopher.

the car's gone to the bodyshop

just waiting to see and compare how it'll come.

[BobbyG]

Seriously, that has to be some of the worst orange peal I've ever seen!

As I was looking at the photos I was hoping that the clear was thick enough so it could be properly wet sanded, compounded and polished.

I thought the results were simply amazing and even though it was time consuming the finish looks like a mirror now...

I always prime my pads and this may have been caused by a combination of dry pad and speed.

A yellow foam pad is the stiffest foam I know of in the Lake Country line.

For something like this a wool pad would have been preferable and it's more aggressive than foam enabling you to quickly move through those stages. This is a great example of what can be accomplished with a rotary polisher.....

[zckid]

Thats some time consuming work,what would you charge to do entire car(sand, compound, and polish)

Thanks for the reply Dan

Actually, I don't know how much to charge but a respray is very much expensive here (about MUR 15,000 and upwards).

The top detailing are hardly available here. I ordered from AG, even with 20% discount, it cost me almost twice (air shipping and taxes).

I did a friend's Toyota camy, I'm still thinking how much to charge.

Anybody has a generic formula for detailing charges??

[zckid]

Seriously, that has to be some of the worst orange peal I've ever seen!

As I was looking at the photos I was hoping that the clear was thick enough so it could be properly wet sanded, compounded and polished.

I thought the results were simply amazing and even though it was time consuming the finish looks like a mirror now...

I always prime my pads and this may have been caused by a combination of dry pad and speed.

A yellow foam pad is the stiffest foam I know of in the Lake Country line.

For something like this a wool pad would have been preferable and it's more aggressive than foam enabling you to quickly move through those stages. This is a great example of what can be accomplished with a rotary polisher.....

Thanks a lot for your insight and kind words Bobby

definitely i'm gonna try the LC yellow pad or the wool.

But if actually you had a picture of a primed pad and the amount of polish to be used for a section 40 x 40 cm, it would be very nice.

thanks so much