Jewelling - Definition

[Bunky]

I had forgotten about Todd's post from a while back. Barry thanks for posting it.

[Old Tiger]

I jewel with a Dewalt 849X. I use a gold or black pad. I dont apply a lot of pressure and set the speed at about 1400. Does this process sound right? TIA!

[Rsurfer]

Sounds about right Jim. I use Ultrafina and 3M recommends 1800 rpm's.

I jewel with a Dewalt 849X. I use a gold or black pad. I dont apply a lot of pressure and set the speed at about 1400. Does this process sound right? TIA!

[Old Tiger]

Sounds about right Jim. I use Ultrafina and 3M recommends 1800 rpm's.

Ron, you are such a tease!
Thanks Buddy! I will bump it up to 1800!

[mlc40]

I just finished correcting the paint on my car with M105, in bad spots, and M205. The car looks good but I want to try jeweling it. I have search and read a lot of different opinions on the correct way to do this but I do not have a rotary. Here is what I am planning to do but would love some expert opinions.


Porter Cable set to 5
Red (soft) pad
Medium pressure, slow motion
PO85D polish


I have blue and white, Tangerine (hydro tech) pads but if I am right I should use the softest pad I can.


TIA


BTW, I could never do this for a living. I have 25+ hours in getting all the minor scratches fixed. By them time I am done I this project will take me as long as putting on the KB.

[02xtreme07SS]

Can anyone point me in the direction of a thorough article or video specifically about Jeweling? Preferably something more than a definition and narrative of some of the steps. I have done some searching, nothing exhaustive, and there is a lot of information out there, but it all seems to be somewhat incomplete. There definitely isn't much in the way of 50/50 shots, true before and afters, nuances of the technique, pitfalls, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Mike Phillips]

Can anyone point me in the direction of a thorough article or video specifically about Jeweling? Preferably something more than a definition and narrative of some of the steps.

What type of tool are you using?

I have done some searching, nothing exhaustive, and there is a lot of information out there, but it all seems to be somewhat incomplete.

There definitely isn't much in the way of 50/50 shots, true before and afters,

The jewelling step is done after machine polishing, it's an EXTRA step. If a person is doing great work to start with, then after the first machine polishing step the paint should already look pretty damn good.

Jewelling is to "try" to squeeze just a little more gloss and shine out of already great results. THEREFORE you won't see any dramatic before and after shots, the differences will be subtle. IF the differences are dramatic that means the person doesn't know what they're doing in the first place.

Most pro detailers I know that would do a multiple-step process to a car's finish would do this,

• Wash or wipe the car clean - You cannot inspect dirty paint

• Inspect the paint visually and tactically

• If above surface bonded contaminants are discovered, REMOVE THEM FIRST before machine polishing - Get them off the surface

• IF the paint has below surface defects, then do a TEST SPOT, determine what is needed to remove the defects using the least aggressive products and approach so that you remove the defects while leaving the most paint on the car. That's professionalism at its core.
  
  IF, and those are two capital letters, IF the paint needs compounding, then compound it. If not then use a less aggressive polish like a Medium Cut Polish or a Fine Cut Polish, whatever it takes to get the job done. Categories of products are defined on page 79 of my how-to book.

• If the paint was compounded, then AFTER the paint is compound a Pro would then machine polish to remove any haze or swirls left by the machine compounding step. AT THIS POINT, assuming the Pro knows what they are doing and are using good pads, good products and good technique, the paint should look pretty damn good, even GREAT.

• After this step, AS AN OPTION, a Pro or an enthusiast could jewel the paint. A Pro would only do it if they were being paid for their time because it means re-buffing the entire car or the major gloss panels. Time is money. A pro might do this to build their reputation or maintain their reputation but again, time is money.

• An enthusiast on the other hand working on their own car has all the time in the world and can work on their own car for free. That said, after compounding and polishing, or if you only have to "polish" the paint, after either approach the paint should already look pretty damn good. Thus... no dramatic before and after.

Make sense?

It's really hard to capture subtle differences at this level, at this degree of perfection with a camera. Heck it's hard to see it with the naked eye in person.


Right now I have a 1940 Chevy Coupe out in the studio that we did one machine polishing step to using a Fine Cut Polish.

I'll go out and jewel it for you using an Ultra Fine Cut Polish but you won't see a dramatic difference in the before and after and that's because we already did a great job when we machine polished it.


Take a moment to read what I wrote about jeweling on pages 103 to 105 in my how-to book.
















nuances of the technique, pitfalls, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.[/QUOTE]

[02xtreme07SS]

What type of tool are you using?

Thanks Mike. To answer your question about the tool, I would be using my Flex PE14-2 with a black/grey LC finishing pad and some Menzerna 85RD.

And I knew I should have picked up your book again. I'll take a look at the PDF now. When I read through it the first time it was more for enjoyment, but now I'm going to have to go hack and dissect and absorb. Thanks again for the reply.

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Mike. To answer your question about the tool, I would be using my Flex PE14-2 with a black/grey LC finishing pad and some Menzerna 85RD.

What a coincidence, I just shot a video on how to jewel paint using

Flex PE14
Lake Country 5.5" Blue Finishing Pad
Menzerna SF 4500

Since I have already polished and waxed the 1936 Chevy Coupe I start out re-polishing a panel using Menzerna FF 3000 to do two things,

1. Remove the previoiusly applied wax

2. To replicate what paint should look like after a NORMAL polishing procedure before attempting to jewel the paint.

I offer some tips and techniques in the video but to be honest, the paint looks the same in the video as I shot this with my iphone.

And I knew I should have picked up your book again. I'll take a look at the PDF now. When I read through it the first time it was more for enjoyment, but now I'm going to have to go hack and dissect and absorb. Thanks again for the reply.

I think I covered most of the points in my how-to book in this short video. I'm on my second time trying to upload to YouTube if it fails this time I'll ask Yancy to give me a hand.


Hang tight...

[Mike Phillips]

Also, Menzerna changed their product names and labels, might as well start the switch-over...

Menzerna - New Names and Product Numbers


Menzerna has introduced all new labels and product names for identifying their products. I know it's easy to stick with what you know and change can be hard but the new product names and identifying numbers are here to stay so might as well make the switch when talking and typing about them..

PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (S34A)


SI 1500 – Super Intensive Polish (PO83)


IP 2000 – Intensive Polish (PO91E)


PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203)


FF 3000 – Final Finish Polish (PO85U)


SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)


SF 4500 – Super Finish Polish (PO85RD)


Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Paint Sealant

No label change at this time for,

• Menzerna Sealing Wax APO 60

• Menzerna Finishing Glaze PO 115C