Getting reaquainted with #7

[Don M]

After my encounter with bambi, the new hood and front end of my car made the rest of the car look terrible (SS red paint after a hard winter). All I had was some Deep Crystal Polish (DC-2) and I gave that a good rub with the PC and a polishing pad. It applied and came off beautifully and combined with two coats of NXT2, the car was sparkling again.

Well I finally bought some #7 so I could start my summer side work detailiing cars for a few extra dollars. First up was a BMW 528? with a carbon fiber hood. It was a hot day and the 7 spread beautifully. My method for removing the #7 is to apply the first of two sealant coats directly over the #7, it typically makes the removal of the #7 much easier. A good rub of #7 with a coat of NXT2 overtop, remove, then put a fresh coat of NXT2 on the car then wait for the swipe test and remove. This usually results in a near-perfect finish. I did my father in law's truck today (60* and humid). First the car wouldn't dry after the wash...too cold & damp I guess then the #7 didn't want to spread as well as it did when it was warmer. I had started with Megs UC, so I had a good surface to work with, it just didn't want to spread as thin. Since I was working on a truck I used Collinite 845 Insulator wax. The wax spread over the #7 fine and removal of the wax/#7 was just as easy as before. The second layer of 845 went on with no issues.

So after seeing how well these cars turned out using #7, I decided mine needed repolished and waxed. Since I had just used UC only a week or so before, I went straight to the polishing step. As with the truck, the #7 didn't want to spread so well in the colder weather. On my car I used the NXT2 and the first coat that went on directly over the #7 was a BEAST to remove. I know that even if you apply NXT2 too heavy it's still easy to remove so it had to be the #7 and the cold weather causing me issues. The second layer of NXT2 was more like normal, easy to remove with only slight streaking on a few of the panels...I did have a bit of a "waxident" I accidentally applied the NXT2 to the hood which was only painted a few weeks ago.

To make a long story short (too late) once I got eveything buffed off and used the UQW on the edges etc. I was able to stand back and see the car in the setting sunlight...WOW, and I thought the DC-2 made the red pop, the car is now red-hot-chili-pepper-fire engine-Rudolph's-nose-has-nothing-on-my-car-red.

Although the #7 is a bit more work in cooler weather, the results are most definately worth it.

[BillyJack]

I've worked extensively with #7 on my El Camino with SS burgundy paint, so I'm familiar with its quirks. probably the best improvement I've made in the process was inspired by a Mike Phillips' article on restoring SS paint. Ditch the applicator pads, foam or otherwise. Use a typical 16"x16" mf cloth, fold it in quarters, then fold it one more time for a 4"X8' size. Apply a stripe of M07 down the center and have at it. You can roll up the sides, gripping with your thumb and little finger and use your palm for pressure. Rub it in with some "passion", leaving just a thin film of residue. Removal should be much easier. I've been able to leave it soak in for as long as I care to, even overnight, without difficulty in wiping off, even in a cold garage. #7 also prefers to be wiped off differently than many other products. If it hasn't set up over a long period of time, don't try to wipe it off all at once. #7 "skins" as it dries, kinda like homemade pudding. Knock off the "skin" with a slow, determined pass and continue to the next panel. Return to the first panel and wipe more away, again with a slow motion. Once the #7 is wiped off completely, applying and removing most LSP's is usually not a chore.

Bill

[diablojota]

I used #7 on my '74 Eldorado. I applied and let sit overnight. I tried to follow Mike's suggestion with using it to bring the paint back to life, but no dice. So I ended using some 205 first and then the #7. Turned out great. My dad was shocked that I could bring the paint back to life.

[Don M]

I've worked extensively with #7 on my El Camino with SS burgundy paint, so I'm familiar with its quirks. probably the best improvement I've made in the process was inspired by a Mike Phillips' article on restoring SS paint. Ditch the applicator pads, foam or otherwise. Use a typical 16"x16" mf cloth, fold it in quarters, then fold it one more time for a 4"X8' size. Apply a stripe of M07 down the center and have at it. You can roll up the sides, gripping with your thumb and little finger and use your palm for pressure. Rub it in with some "passion", leaving just a thin film of residue. Removal should be much easier. I've been able to leave it soak in for as long as I care to, even overnight, without difficulty in wiping off, even in a cold garage. #7 also prefers to be wiped off differently than many other products. If it hasn't set up over a long period of time, don't try to wipe it off all at once. #7 "skins" as it dries, kinda like homemade pudding. Knock off the "skin" with a slow, determined pass and continue to the next panel. Return to the first panel and wipe more away, again with a slow motion. Once the #7 is wiped off completely, applying and removing most LSP's is usually not a chore.

Bill

I used my PC to apply the #7 and while I thought I applied it thin, I think I used too much b/c it wasn't spreading likeI'm used to it doing. Like I mentioned, it had to be the colder temps and the humidity. I'm going out now to put on my 2nd layer of NXT2 to ensure complete coverage.

[Don M]

I used #7 on my '74 Eldorado. I applied and let sit overnight. I tried to follow Mike's suggestion with using it to bring the paint back to life, but no dice. So I ended using some 205 first and then the #7. Turned out great. My dad was shocked that I could bring the paint back to life.

The first thing I did after seeing how different the fresh paint looked compared to the original paint was to break out the Ultimate Compound. That by itself made an impressive difference in the faded paint.

[BillyJack]

I used my PC to apply the #7 and while I thought I applied it thin, I think I used too much b/c it wasn't spreading like I'm used to it doing. Like I mentioned, it had to be the colder temps and the humidity. I'm going out now to put on my 2nd layer of NXT2 to ensure complete coverage.

As much as I like power tools, I only do #7 by hand, as I've found it easier to apply thin using a mf cloth. It's probably the only product for which I can say that.

Bill

[CrownKote]

to all of the above posters:

Great info though! OP I have never tried to apply #7 then top it then wipe... I will have to try that!

[Don M]

to all of the above posters:

Great info though! OP I have never tried to apply #7 then top it then wipe... I will have to try that!

LOL, my camera is on the blink and I have to get my MIL to take pictures for me...

The topping of #7 with another product, usually a wax or sealant was taught to me when I worked at a detailiing shop many years ago. The best I can do for pics is one I took last year before the deer strike. This was using Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner, DC2 Polish and Collinite 845. I removed the DC2 the same way by applying a coat of 845 on top then a second coat of 845 for coverage, all applied with my PC. Looks similar to my results from this weekend. Of course in person the new combo of UC, #7 and NXT2 looks better up close.

[CrownKote]

LOL, my camera is on the blink and I have to get my MIL to take pictures for me...

The topping of #7 with another product, usually a wax or sealant was taught to me when I worked at a detailiing shop many years ago. The best I can do for pics is one I took last year before the deer strike. This was using Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner, DC2 Polish and Collinite 845. I removed the DC2 the same way by applying a coat of 845 on top then a second coat of 845 for coverage, all applied with my PC. Looks similar to my results from this weekend. Of course in person the new combo of UC, #7 and NXT2 looks better up close.

Cool! I will have to give it a try! Thanks!

[Mike Phillips]

I used #7 on my '74 Eldorado. I applied and let sit overnight.

Was that the first step?

I think my article talks about doing these steps first,

1. Washing or wiping the car clean
2. Claying the paint if needed
3. Then "working" the the #7 into the paint and then leaving it to penetrate

So there's some "effort" involved first. Basically to get anything off the surface so it's out of the way.

I tried to follow Mike's suggestion with using it to bring the paint back to life, but no dice. So I ended using some 205 first and then the #7. Turned out great. My dad was shocked that I could bring the paint back to life.

That way works to, in essence you're abrading the paint, removing all the oxidized dead paint and then gorging it with the #7 oils. This is actually the normal process.

The soaking in #7 is really only a technique a person can try when preserving the original paint is the top priority. So it's an optional step and it might not even help, I just wanted to document it for those that find some barn treasure and want to do everything they can to try to preserve the original paint.

What color was your Dad's Cadillac?

And for lurkers or forum members not sure of which article it is...


The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints