How much product do you use?

[Swimmer]

Ok, this past weekend I tried out my new polisher on my son's '97 Honda Accord wagon. This was my test case so only worked the hood and roof, as the rest of the car has a severe case of peeling. Results were great considering both hood and roof were so heavily oxidized I couldn't get it off manually no matter how hard I waxed (will post pictures later). Really enjoyed using the Flex!

I've viewed and reviewed all the videos, but can't find anywhere that it discusses how much product to use. I thought I saw a thread somewhere that discussed it, but naturally I can't find it now. I know you work a 2x2 area at a time applying a bead of polish to the outside of the pad, but when you move on to the next section, do you apply another bead and so on? Seems you'll be out of product before the car is finished.

I was using the Flex 3401, LC pads, and WG product. I experimented and found what I thought worked, but not sure. For a Honda Accord, how much total product of each (polish, sealant, etc) would you use? I realize each product has diffent characteristics, but assume you go over the car only once with each product.

Also, when you do a section, do you go through the entire polish/wax cycle for that section, or do you polish the entire car, then glaze the entire car, and then seal/wax the entire car?

Realize, I'm new to all this so bear with me as I have two more cars to do. So whatever help I can get will give me more confidence and understanding in what I'm doing right and/or wrong for my next two endeavors.

Thanks!

[HeavyMetal]

Don't know about a Flex, I use a PC. For each step I primed the pad with a couple sprays of DP NR diluted to clay lube and applied a bead of prduct. After that, it took 4 - 5 pea-sized dots per panel, depending on panel size (I broke the panels along body lines). I figure I used maybe 3 oz per car.

[SeaJay's]

I'm in the same boat as HeavyMetal here. I have a PC but I would assume it's going to be pretty close since they are both DA's (Flex is forced rotation though).

I will prime my pad with a couple sprays of pad conditioner of your choice. I then put a bead around the pad and I will then rub that into the pad some, then add 3-4 pea size drops per area I'm working (roughly 2x2).

Some areas I have to hit more than once to get the results I want, so it really will vary on the condition of the car. Also if the paint is hard or soft. Sometimes a few section passes with a compound may take out all defects. Other times you have to hit he same section 2 or 3 different times to get out all the defects.

On a Honda Civic I'd probably use 3-5oz. I'm estimating obviously, but you get at least an idea.

[LegacyGT]

After the pad is primed (which I manually massage product into the entire pad before starting) I use 2-3 pea sized drops for a 2x2' area.

Early on I used way too much product, and it caused all sorts of issues. Just check your section after 2-3 passes and give it a swipe to make sure you are not dry buffing. After a few sections you will get a good feel for the amount of product to use. Also clean the pad after each section.

Edit here is a video I shot from DF showing how much product to use with the MF system, which is about the same as I use on foam pads.

[Swimmer]

Thanks. LegacyGT, the video was great! I don't think I had completely primed the pad as shown in the video.

Now what about the answer to my last question:

"Also, when you do a section, do you go through the entire polish/wax cycle for that section, or do you polish the entire car, then glaze the entire car, and then seal/wax the entire car?"

It seems logical to keep with one pad and product until the car is competed before going on to the next pad and product.

[DaHen]

I do the entire car with the one product at a time. Not a section at a time.

[HeavyMetal]

Now what about the answer to my last question:

"Also, when you do a section, do you go through the entire polish/wax cycle for that section, or do you polish the entire car, then glaze the entire car, and then seal/wax the entire car?"

It seems logical to keep with one pad and product until the car is competed before going on to the next pad and product.

You do the car completely with one product and process before moving on to the next. Do not confuse doing a test spot - ie, completing the polishing process on a small area to make sure it works - with doing the entire car.

So, for example, on the cars I've done, I started with WG TSR and an orange pad. Did the entire car that way, polishing and then buffing off each panel as I went. Then I did the entire car with WG FG and a white pad, polishing and buffing the same way. Last I applied Menz PL with a red pad to the entire car, again buffing as I went. If you really wanna make the paint pop, you can add in a step with WG PPE and a grey pad before the sealant. BobbyG (I think) suggested this and it worked very well.

[James K]

Nice video Legacy.

I recognize some of those faces. LOL

[Setec Astronomy]

I was using the Flex 3401, LC pads, and WG product. I experimented and found what I thought worked, but not sure. For a Honda Accord, how much total product of each (polish, sealant, etc) would you use? I realize each product has diffent characteristics, but assume you go over the car only once with each product.

Don't feel bad, beginners always use too much product. Once the pad is primed, you don't need to add much, but at some point, the pad may become saturated and you will need to clean the pad or switch to a new pad (depending on product characteristics). My rule of thumb would be about 1 oz of polish (for a once-over), sealant depends on what sealant, but it could be an ounce, usally more like 1/2 oz, or even much less if it's a WOWA. Rule of thumb for newbs: use less than you think you should.

[conan777]

I have the Flex as well and it is a great machine. The video above gives a fair representation of how much Compounding polish to use when removing heavy defects. I find that when I am compounding the paint its because the paint is in pretty bad condition. For this reason you will probably have to use more and more compound to remove the defects and make multiple passes to include applying more product to your pads and doing the same panel multiple times until you are happy with the results. This is where the hardness of the paint comes in to play. The harder the paint probably the more passes you are gonna do and you may find yourself re-applying compound to the pad and going over the same panel again and again. I have done this 10 times on some really hard paint but I was looking to achieve as close to 100% perfection as possible. Typically however You will probably achieve the same result with 1-3 applications. It all comes down to the eye of the beholder.

I personally prefer M105 and it is my go to Compound now because it breaks down fast and often times does not leave any micro marring so you are ready for your LSP. You did not list the WG product you are using so I cannot say anymore ref the product you use but keep in mind that when you are finished compounding 95% of the correction is finished. The only reason you are following compounding with a finishing polish/Glaze is to jewel it or clean up any micromarring left behind by the compound. For this you will use much less finishing polish than you used compounding polish and it will go much quicker too. For finishing polish I use no more that 1 or 2 pea sized beads on my pad.

You will know you are using too much product if when you go to wipe the panel afterward the towel catches and it is difficult to remove the polish residue from the panel. Continue polishing until the polish turns clear and wipes of fairly easily. Good luck!