New Car Care - Black Car - Light scartches after body repair

[Soulman1980]

I'd like to give thanks in advance to any advice you may have to share.

I purchased a 2011 Acura TL Tech - Black on Black. I'm no professional detailer, but I do enjoy it as a hobby on my own car and read the forums regularly.

I had mentioned my concerns about the dealership detail to the salesperson. I didn't think the message would get passed along, however when I picked up the car they actually did a fine job, there were no swirls or scratches. It was actually perfect.

About four days later we had heavy snow in the northeast. My wife offered to clean the cars off while I shoveled, I passed and said I'd take care of the new car myself. Approximately one hour later a town plow ripped through the driver side of the car from back to front.

Less than a week, and less than 300 miles on the car!

$6k worth of work later the front fender, and both doors were replaced while the rear fender (which got it the least) was repaired.

The final courtesy detail from the bodyshop was less than impressive. While not a horror story like those I've read on the forum, there were very clear light scratches (vertical, NOT swirls) as if there were a few bits of dirt on their polishing pad, very hard to see unless in direct sunlight, and even than it's noticeable, but not terrible.

So, to make a long-winded post into a short question:

How should I correct this on a new car, which now has had half the car repainted? I've always read start least aggressive.

In the past I owned a 2004 Black Honda Accord, on that vehicle I would do the Meguiars 3-step (cleaner, wax, polish) and would get lovely results.

I do not have a buffer, but am contemplating one of the DA machines. If I go at this with elbow grease what would you suggest?

If I buy the buffer what would you suggest?

On a side note, I got one wash in with my first time using ONR and two-bucket during a snowy week in the Northeast, and wow.. I was impressed.

Thanks again for the advice, but I figured I'd give the backstory to why half my car was painted while still considered brand-new.

Thanks,
J

[SeaJay's]

First welcome!

Wow talk about bad luck! Sorry for your accident!

As long as the paint has gased out completely (usually 30 days after work has been done), then you may want to try using a DA and some light polish. It sounds like there is some micro-marring from the polishing step that the body shop did.

As for a DA, I currently have the PC7424xp which is a great machine and I love it. I know that there are different opinions on the forum though and a lot people seem to like the Griots DA as well. Either way I would say a DA is the way to go and will make the job of correcting your paint much easier.

You mention your from the Northeast, where abouts? I'm in Mass.

[Soulman1980]

Those were the two I was debating over, although some go with one over the other, it seems both are more than respectable.

Somehow, I don't see getting the polisher without getting the wife a new bag or shoes! So everything I buy costs double

I'm in Dutchess County New York, Poughkeepsie area.

Is there a certain brand or # within the Meguirs line (I've always been a fan) for the light polish?

thanks,
J

[SeaJay's]

I hear you on having to buy your wife something! I just purchased the new Flex rotary and dragging my gf to Detail Fest...so we are going to St Maarten next week....what a shame huh?! lol

For a light polish I like this Meguiars Mirror Glaze #205 Ultra Finishing Polish, final polish, car polish, M205, Meguires. Actually, usually Megs 105 & 205 are my go to for polishing. But I did just get my shipment of Menzerna polishes that I'm dying to try out.

[Mike Phillips]

Those were the two I was debating over, although some go with one over the other, it seems both are more than respectable.

Both tools will get the job done, the Griot's has more power but both have ample power to get the job done using 5.5" pads. I prefer the fit and finish of the PC plus the location of the on off switch, the variable speed adjuster and the smaller overall size. But I use both all the time and often times the one I use comes down to whichever one is closer to my hand or has the backing plate size I need for the pad I'm going to use.

Is there a certain brand or # within the Meguiars line (I've always been a fan) for the light polish?

thanks,
J

M205 is their light polish in the Professional Line, it's pretty light though but a really good finishing polish.

They have a brand new Consumer polish out but I have not tested it yet, been on the road and now setting up for classes this weekend. If the marring is light then the M205 with a polishing pad on the 5-6 setting working a small area at a time should take care of it. If it doesn't then you can always get something more aggressive.

The Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover is a great medium aggressive polish, close or similar to Menzerna Super Intensive Polish, both work great and are easy to work with.


Sorry to hear of your mishap with such a nice, brand new car...