Need help using meg 105 CORRECTLY

**NiSyam** · 08-29-2010, 11:22 AM

Hey guys

Im new to detailing and Ive been using megs 105 since it was recommended to me by other people here on the forum.

I love the results that i get from it but I would love to know whats the best way to work with it.

I find thats it dries too fast, produces dust, and ruins my pads!!

For cleaning my pads during the paint correction i use this brush Foam Pad Conditioning Brush cleans and reconditions foam and wool pads on the buffer. remove excess caked wax and polish from buffing pads., it takes away the dust from the pads but i find that it also damages the pads( i don't put much pressure on it)

Can anyone help me please?

I have a PC

Thank you guys!

**Finemess** · 08-29-2010, 01:41 PM

Have you tried working a smaller area? What speed are you using?

**NiSyam** · 08-29-2010, 04:30 PM

Yes i have! And i know im doing right because the results prove it.

Im using speed 3 to spreed the product and then 5-6 to work it.

**PAR Detailing** · 08-29-2010, 04:39 PM

When cleaning try using a terry towel instead of the brush. I found the brush also tears up the pads fast. I havent noticed any problems with using a terry towel wrapped around two fingers

**Rsurfer** · 08-29-2010, 05:55 PM

Have you tried priming the entire pad and just adding a few drops as the polish dries? Then do as Par suggested to clean the pad.

**NiSyam** · 08-29-2010, 11:35 PM

Yeah i should really try that technique to clean the pads.

I did try priming the pad and adding little as i go but still same results.
Another problem i have is that when it dries i have a really hard time removing it after. I made a mistake by leaving some dust on the panels for a few days and now i tried to remove it and its so hard to accomplish a good job without scratching the paint again

**ICEMAN** · 08-30-2010, 07:03 AM

105 is known for dusting. just be ready to (sometimes) wash a car after using 105, lol.

Mike Phillips · 08-30-2010, 07:32 AM

M105 is known for working great but having a shorter buffing cycle than most people like...

You can also use a wetting agent to add more lubricity while you're buffing. Meguiar's recommend their M34 Final Inspection. I have an article on this on MOL in Hot Topics.

I kind of expected to see Meguiar's announce a new and improved version of M105 at SEMA last year, so who knows... maybe they'll do it this year... seems forum consensus across a wide spectrum of users all have the same feedback and experience with the problem.

Some of the tips I include in this article apply to working with M105

Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight

**canairb** · 08-30-2010, 08:27 AM

I'm no expert, but here is here is how I use M105 with a DA.
I learned this process by reading numerous articles and forum threads.

1. Prime the Pad. Cover entire surface lightly to fill the surface pores of the pad. Do not saturate. Add about 3 pea/dime size drops to the pad.

2. Do not spread product on panel, it dries too quickly. Just immediately start polishing at speed 5 or 6.

3. Work a *small* section at a time.

4. Use enough pressure to slow down the pad rotation, but ensure the pad is still rotating. Lighten the pressure for the last few passes for a nicer finish.

5. Do not use too much product or work it too long as it may be hard to remove.

6. Clean the pad often. Spin the pad on slow setting and use a soft brush to loosen any dried on material. If pad gets clogged, use a new pad (be sure to lightly prime new pad).

Mike Phillips · 08-30-2010, 08:43 AM

Originally Posted by canairb

I'm no expert, but here is here is how I use M105 with a DA.
I learned this process by reading numerous articles and forum threads.

1. Prime the Pad. Cover entire surface lightly to fill the surface pores of the pad. Do not saturate. Add about 3 pea/dime size drops to the pad.

2. Do not spread product on panel, it dries too quickly. Just immediately start polishing at speed 5 or 6.

3. Work a *small* section at a time.

4. Use enough pressure to slow down the pad rotation, but ensure the pad is still rotating. Lighten the pressure for the last few passes for a nicer finish.

5. Do not use too much product or work it too long as it may be hard to remove.

6. Clean the pad often. Spin the pad on slow setting and use a soft brush to loosen any dried on material. If pad gets clogged, use a new pad (be sure to lightly prime new pad).

Great summary...

2 works as long as you're doing 3 but if you're doing 3 then you'll be re-agitating the film of the product on the surface pretty quickly that you can spread the product out like I show in the how to do a "Section Pass" video.

Personal preference...

I wrote something that touches on this topic here,

Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight

Originally Posted by Mike Phillips

Shrink your work area down to a smaller size...
Anytime a product becomes difficult to work with, one tip you can try is to shrink down the size of your work area. This means you spread the product out over a smaller area and because you're engaging the working film of product over the area more quickly as you move the polisher there's less time for the product to dry.

6 is probably the most important thing you can do when using any compound or polish to abrade the paint because not only will you have "Spent Product" building up on the face of your pad but you'll also have "Removed Paint".

You want to clean this mixture off the face of your pad before adding fresh product...

How to clean your foam pad on the fly