Applying Multiple Coats

[b-rad g]

When applying multiple coats of carnaba wax what do you do when you go to apply the second or third coats? Do you apply the first coat, let it cure and use a QD to clean the dust or anything that might have gotten on the car before you apply the next coat?

[loudog2]

If it is in the garage, a QD is fine. Wait 12 hours between coats. If it is really dusty there is nothing wrong with re-washing it, before the next application. When in doubt, whip it out. LOL (the hose and bucket)

[pwcheenie]

I read a post last summer on applying multiple coats of wax, one right after another. The secret was to use a chilled spray bottle of water kept in the fridge. Apply one coat of wax, then spray the cool water mist on a pannel before applying next coat of wax. I guess it hardens the previous wax so it is not polished away by the second coat. I have tried it and it seem to work fine.
Has anyone else out there ever heard of this technique?

[loudog2]

I read a post last summer on applying multiple coats of wax, one right after another. The secret was to use a chilled spray bottle of water kept in the fridge. Apply one coat of wax, then spray the cool water mist on a pannel before applying next coat of wax. I guess it hardens the previous wax so it is not polished away by the second coat. I have tried it and it seem to work fine.
Has anyone else out there ever heard of this technique?

Thanks for the small print!! Now my eyes hurt

[jmp09fg2]

I read a post last summer on applying multiple coats of wax, one right after another. The secret was to use a chilled spray bottle of water kept in the fridge. Apply one coat of wax, then spray the cool water mist on a pannel before applying next coat of wax. I guess it hardens the previous wax so it is not polished away by the second coat. I have tried it and it seem to work fine.
Has anyone else out there ever heard of this technique?

Well looky there. I'll try this out tomorrow....

[Rsurfer]

I read a post last summer on applying multiple coats of wax, one right after another. The secret was to use a chilled spray bottle of water kept in the fridge. Apply one coat of wax, then spray the cool water mist on a pannel before applying next coat of wax. I guess it hardens the previous wax so it is not polished away by the second coat. I have tried it and it seem to work fine.
Has anyone else out there ever heard of this technique?

It's called spit shinning. Don't know if your old enough, but this system was used to get a glass like look on your boots. It's a lot of work and to me not worth the effort. The cold water will harden the existing wax, but it will also help dissolve the solvents in the wax from removing the previous layer.

[rohnramirez]

I would just wash it the next day. Not much work there cause, i'm sure not much dirt could to gather in the garage. 10mins to wash, 10minutes to dry. 10minutes to apply another coat. sit in the couch for an hour (yeah,i like to keep it there for a while before i buff it out), then go back for to do a 5minute buff and another 5 minute final wipe.

[b-rad g]

Cool!! Thanks for the replies.

[Mike Phillips]

If your goal is to create the thickest layer of protection possible then a couple of suggestions...

Before applying a second coat you want the first coat to fully set-up, in this case the word set-up means for the protection ingredients to completely do whatever it is they do to be fully locked-on and bonded to the paint. Different waxes and sealants bond to paint differently and there's no real good way to know what this technology is because car wax manufactures don't post this kind of information, at least the "real" part of it for our reading pleasure.

So the next best thing you can do is allow enough time to go by to allow whatever the magical chemistry is to take place and a good rule-of-thumb is a window of time of 24 hours. Maybe the magic is over in 5 minutes, maybe the magic is over in 23 hours and 23 minutes, maybe the magic is over in 5 minutes on the fender but not completely done on the paint by the rear view mirror. Since there's no way of knowing, that's why just a blanket, vague 24 hour window time is a good rule of thumb.

I don't use it personally as I don't have that kind of time in life but the above is just an "answer" and you can take from it what you will.


Next, any subsequent applications of whatever wax or sealant you choose to use must be applied gently and softly and the reason for this is because even if the product you're using is non abrasive, besides the product other factors are involved that could "disrupt" or "break-up" or "loosen" or even "remove" the previously applied coating, things like,

Application material - Soft foam is more gentle than steel wool, so don't use steel wool or anything aggressive to apply a finishing wax or sealant.

Application pressure - Pushing or applying softly is more gentle than scrubbing the next layer on, so be gentle and apply with a soft touch.

Application time - It's possible that just the act of rubbing a liquid over a waxed or sealed surface could act to re-liquefy the previously dried layer, rubbing longer can't possible be a benefit so what's the opposite of rubbing longer?

Don't know if that helps but I've had the good fortune of posting about layering a lot in my life.

[Mike Phillips]

If possible, try not to wipe or touch the paint in-between coats, if you have to wipe or wash, then do so in the least evasive manner possible.

If wiping use extra microfibers versus one or two, if washing, remember you don't need to run the wash mitt over the panel but once or twice to loosen the grip any light dirt or dust might have on the paint.

Just the act of rubbing or wiping paint with some kind of cloth is more likely to remove part of the sacrificial wax or sealant coating than to add to it.

Here's wiping to the extreme...


Tips & Techniques for using a Spray Detailer to Remove Light Dust, Fingerprints and Smudges