The Best 2-Step Menzerna Application

**Shade Tree** · 02-13-2010, 05:05 PM

Just to clarify; I understand you're referring to the clear coat as to the hardness/softness ...... density.

I'm not sure why the metallics are more durable. Maybe a stronger bond between the base & clear coats? I do know the metallics are able to take much more abuse with regard to chipping & scratches.

**Lasthope05** · 02-13-2010, 05:05 PM

My have a few friends that are painters so I know a bit about paint. Metallics or flat again its all dependent upon the clears they use. The way metallic paints are applied are: Base Coat, Clearcoat w/metal flake, and plain clear over top again. The metallic clearcoat mix is sandwiched between the BC and CC.

**Shade Tree** · 02-13-2010, 06:12 PM

Originally Posted by Lasthope05

My have a few friends that are painters so I know a bit about paint. Metallics or flat again its all dependent upon the clears they use. The way metallic paints are applied are: Base Coat, Clearcoat w/metal flake, and plain clear over top again. The metallic clearcoat mix is sandwiched between the BC and CC.

And that would be the reason they are more durable, harder than the solid colors. The solid colors are reliant on an extra layer of base/color coat and then the clear whereas the metallics are actually getting an extra coat of clear.

That would make sense then.

**Lasthope05** · 02-13-2010, 07:27 PM

Originally Posted by Shade Tree

And that would be the reason they are more durable, harder than the solid colors. The solid colors are reliant on an extra layer of base/color coat and then the clear whereas the metallics are actually getting an extra coat of clear.

That would make sense then.

I dont really want to drag this on but there arent really extra coats of clear. The metallic coats of clear are just replacing the first few layers of clear. They are not additional coats. If you measure the paint of a car(same make/model) with one metallic and flat color the thickness should be the same. When painting, more clear is not better. Making the paint layer thicker increases is brittleness and chances of chipping. Its almost like body filler and glaze. You want to pop out the damage as much as you can and use as little fill as possible to prevent the possibility of stress cracks.

**Shade Tree** · 02-13-2010, 08:46 PM

We're so far off the original subject now ..... moving on.

I know what it takes to recondition these paints & how easy and/or difficult each type can be to work with. You know the technical makeup of each.

Moving on .....

**WRAPT C5Z06** · 03-18-2010, 06:48 PM

Originally Posted by Shade Tree

Imports - harder paint structure (solid & metallic colors)
Toyota, Lexus, Infiniti, Honda, Acura, Nissan etc

Domestic - harder paint structure (solid & metallic)
GM, Ford, Chrysler products

European - softer paint structure (solid colors mainly, but metallic somewhat harder)
BMW, Mercedes, Rolls Royce, Range Rover, Audi, VW and all exotics

I'm sure I missed lots of manufacturers, but you get the idea.

Shade,

Did you mean to say European cars have harder paint and Imports have softer paint? This is how I've always understood it.

**Shade Tree** · 03-18-2010, 10:36 PM

Originally Posted by 07 z-oh-6

Shade,

Did you mean to say European cars have harder paint and Imports have softer paint? This is how I've always understood it.

No, this is based on my experience with working on each particular paint as well as other feedback I've picked up from other detailers over the years.