Need quick help; spring products suggestions

[raysaint]

My online supplier is having a sale for 2 more days. If you saw any of my posts from last fall, we have a new Red Soul Mazda CX-30, Nov. 6th.

November: I iron deconned, clayed & but the clay mitt marred the paint, noticeable when the sun shines on it and you view it from an angle. I didn't have weather time to correct, so I went ahead with a coat of Klasse Sealant and a coat of 303 Spray & Rinse Sealant for winter protection. So far so good, still beading.
Also did 2 coats of Duragloss Black Trim dressing on all black trim (had an old bottle still laying around.)

Did the 303 on the rims, as they were coming off for winter tires.

So the spring plan is:

Prep for correction (do I need to strip the sealant, or will winter washing and time do that?) I have Eraser.

Polish out the clay marring (I have a porter cable and white/orange/black pads); what polish to use? and which pads? and what speed?
After correction, what to use before a new coat of Klasse? (I'm going with Klasse versus ceramic, as I have a full bottle to use up)

The black trim is new, so a good cleaning should be enough to prep it. I'd like to do it with ceramic or something similar for durability; suggestions? (my online store doesn't have Cerakote or UTTG.)

While the summer wheels are off, I can do them inside and out. Should I go ceramic? an easy application product, like the 303 spray?

And after hand washes in the driveway, should i use a drying aid, and which one? Something appropriate over Klasse. I have old Aquawax, but it can be finicky to get off, or is that just me. And will drying aids build up over time too much?
Because i will want to do another coat of Klasse in the fall.

Anything I'm forgetting, or anything you think I should include in the spring process?

I have lots of towels, soap, products for chrome, plastic, etc.

Thanks to all in advance.

[Setec Astronomy]

I just gave this a quick skim, but when I have a wheel opportunity like that, I would definitely use a "real" coating. It will pay off down the road.

[Coatingsarecrack]

I would order Cerakote trim from Amazon it’s been amazing for me.

If not I would go Dlux or Gyeon trim. Both rate well.

Agreed wheels off…. Coat them…..

All that effort I would coat the paint. They have gotten a lot easier.

For polishes I like the griots boss creams.


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[raysaint]

Cerakote it is for the trim. Any suggestions for wheel coating?

And I heard good things about Carpro reflect for polish.

Any help on the rest of my questions is much appreciated; gotta put an order in tomorrow.
thank you.

[raysaint]

Not many replies, so I had to read a lot of stuff. Anyway, here is what I bought:

For black trim: Cerakote
For wheels: Gtechniq5 (will probably also spray them with the 303 spray/rinse sealer)
For new summer tires: Carpro Darkside
For correction: Carpro Reflect, SuperFine polish, and a couple white waffle pads
For paint: gonna use up my Klasse sealant, and top with 303; after washes, I have some old quik detailer and some old Aquawax, mix them together and use that as drying aid

Any issues or tips for this plan?

Questions: 1) I bought Brake Buster last year, will it harm the wheel or tire coatings? Or should I just use wash soap? (hate to have wasted money on BB)

Thanks again.

[Gridlink]

Brake Buster is quite mild on wheels (it will not harm coatings) but I much prefer to use it undiluted as a tire cleaner which it's great at. For my wheels I just use whatever car shampoo I happen to be using that day. With coated wheels normal shampoo is all you need.

[Desertnate]

So the spring plan is:

Prep for correction (do I need to strip the sealant, or will winter washing and time do that?) I have Eraser.

Eraser isn't a product you use before correction. You use it afterwards to get all the polishing oils off so your sealant or coating will bond to the paint better. Not all sealants require this, but most high solids coatings do.

Prep for correction would be giving the car a really good wash and then claybar. Please note that unless you're going to give it a good polishing, I'd probably not clay the vehicle.

Polish out the clay marring (I have a porter cable and white/orange/black pads); what polish to use? and which pads? and what speed?

What brand are the pads?

For polish, I'm a big fan of the Griots BOSS family of polishes, but I'm sure you'll get recomendations for other brands too.

I always do a test spot...or serveral...to guide my decision on pad and polish. If the car is in good shape, I would start with a polish and the milder pad. If that doesn't correct enough, I'd go to a more aggressive polish on the same grade of pad and try again. If you're still not happy I'd go up a step on the pad. Wash rinse repeat until you dial in a combination that provides the results your after. It takes a little patience to dial in the right combination on a vehicle you've not worked on before and with tools and products you've never used.

After correction, what to use before a new coat of Klasse? (I'm going with Klasse versus ceramic, as I have a full bottle to use up)

If you're set on using Klasse SG, you don't have to do anything, but when I used Klasse products I always like using Klasse AIO and then Klasse SG on top

And after hand washes in the driveway, should i use a drying aid, and which one? Something appropriate over Klasse. I have old Aquawax, but it can be finicky to get off, or is that just me. And will drying aids build up over time too much?
Because i will want to do another coat of Klasse in the fall.

Any reputable product will work. I used Sonus Spritz with Klasse. Rumor had it the Sonus products had small amounts of Klasse SG in them, but I don't think you could ever prove it. Either way, they worked well together.

Most drying aids/quick detailers don't last more than a week or two, so build up really isn't a big deal. If you're worried about them interfering with another application of Klasse, I'd just hold off on using a drying aid for a few weeks just to make sure there isn't anythig there. In all honesty though, I doubt the Klasse is that finiky and should be just fine.

[Coatingsarecrack]

I would get more pads. Atleast 6… what brand/cut are your white waffle pads?

Other than your LSP I think everything else sounds good. And yes Eraser is for after polishing to leave a clean surface for coating. If I remember reading right you won’t need to use it with Klasse.


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[raysaint]

Sorry for the confusion, yes I was planning on using Eraser after polishing, second wash, then the LSP.
The white pads are Rupes white waffle for polishing. Will 2 pads not do a whole car?
The car was new last November, I clayed it then, that's why I'm polishing this spring, to correct the surface clay marring. I bought the Carpro super fine Reflect polish.

[Coatingsarecrack]

Sorry for the confusion, yes I was planning on using Eraser after polishing, second wash, then the LSP.
The white pads are Rupes white waffle for polishing. Will 2 pads not do a whole car?
The car was new last November, I clayed it then, that's why I'm polishing this spring, to correct the surface clay marring. I bought the Carpro super fine Reflect polish.

The wash after removing polish and eraser not needed. I would remove polish sh with microfiber damp with rinsless wash.

I would check up on Klasse. Some sealants and waxes like being put on top a freshly polished surface with no eraser type products. I’ve read they can adhere better.

If you are just lightly polishing/jeweling the paint with no correction needed then yes 2pads will work. Any correction and you’ll be loading up pads with polish. If only two in that a case blow out with air.

Brushes won’t do enough.


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