Iron decon and clay combined...

[DFB]

Very similar process. I spray iron remover when dry.l and let dwell. Then spray Alkaline soap dwell and rinse. then us a ph neutral soap.

I then will clay and then rinse and dry. I don’t really see a need to prep spray at this point as I will do after polish. I don’t see anything left a prep spray would remove that washing, claying and iron removing wouldn’t.

I will how ever try replacing my PH neutral step with Purifica (acid soap)


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The use of the prep spray prior to polishing is something I picked up from watching Sandro's videos, something he tends to do as a matter of course. I do also wonder what its doing though, I guess removing any possible residual chemical, which would prevent a true indication of what the paint looks like? Probably overkill, but that's me.

Using the acidic soap I guess would depend on the cars usage patterns and how much mineral content its exposed to. One of my Falcon's for instance never sees rain or wet roads, so the chances of mineral deposits would be minimal. On a daily driver, the acidic soap would be helpful.

What I love though is having so many different options to achieve the same result.

[Paul A.]

I truly appreciate the comments guys. I'm adjusting my wash and decon procedures as a result.

[KirkH]

Iron decon is not cheap. Clay lube is cheap. I can't see using iron decon as clay lube. That's probably 4X as much iron decon as you need to use.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

This is going to sound blasphemous and contrary to anything I've ever previously said, but I stopped using iron decon products.

[vaced]

After using Iron remover (and letting dwell) I rinse it off thoroughly… as opposed to claying or applying a soap, as in other replies here.

I’m too worried about it drying on some rubber or plastic somewhere I can’t see.

[vaced]

I have combined the iron and clay process as one step in the past, but I didn't care for the method for a couple of reasons -


I've sort of evolved my iron and clay decon process into the following -

1. Apply iron remover to the car from dry, no pre-rinse or washing beforehand. The reasoning here is you don't dilute the chemical and allows it to react as best it can. Naturally, you have to be mindful of it not drying on the car, so work in sections if needed. I'm usually doing this whole process early morning for that reason.


2. After allowing to dwell, I then foam a high alkaline soap over the top of the iron remover. I've found Carpro Lift my favorite but Gyeon Foam and NV Snow+ do well here too. Again, allow to soak for as long as possible. You will see the foam gradually turn purple as it draws the iron contamination from the car.

3. Rinse the car thoroughly.

4. Re-foam the car with an acidic leaning soap, I use Carpro Descale, but KCx have just launched the similar Reactivation Shampoo. From here, I wash as normal, then rinse.


5. With the car still wet, this is where I clay if needed. My reasoning here is that I have the surface as chemically clean as possible prior to rubbing on the car with clay media. To save a step, I don't dry the car before applying the lubricant. This then means I can rinse the clay lube off the car rather than drying it for a second time.

6. Dry the car. In my case, I again combine two steps by using a prep spray as the "drying aid", which then allows you to clearly inspect the paint properly prior to polishing or further actions.
.

Do you do iron remover, high alkaline, then high ph as your standard process, or only when it is determined to be necessary?

[DFB]

Do you do iron remover, high alkaline, then high ph as your standard process, or only when it is determined to be necessary?

This is the process which I do when required, generally on neglected vehicles or when I'm getting ready to polish and ceramic coat -

1. Iron Remover over the whole vehicle from dry. Allow to soak.
2. Foam with high pH/alkaline soap over the top of the iron remover. Allow to soak.
3. Rinse.
4. Foam with low pH/acidic soap, then contact wash.
5. Rinse.
6. Clay treatment, while still wet.
7. Rinse
8. Dry, usually with Carpro Eraser or similar.

[PouncingPanzer]

I guess if you're polishing it anyways it matters a bit less that a lube that isn't a lube was used.....lol. Claying is harsh enough as it is why make it more so? Crazy. Never seen that before but wow.

[Desertnate]

This is going to sound blasphemous and contrary to anything I've ever previously said, but I stopped using iron decon products.

Don't feel bad. I've never used one and not really seen the point. I used a color changing wheel cleaner wheel cleaner years ago, and it never changed color, so I didn't really see the value there either.

Back on topic. One thing I haven't seen anyone mention regarding using an iron remover together with a clar bar is lubrication. How slick are the iron removers? After some terrible experience with Nanoskin Glide offering no lubrication, I'm very conscious of that every time I pull out a claybar. The last thing I want is the clay bar to inflict more marring on the paint than it normally would under normal circumstances.

[Setec Astronomy]

Don't feel bad. I've never used one and not really seen the point. I used a color changing wheel cleaner wheel cleaner years ago, and it never changed color, so I didn't really see the value there either.

I'm not a huge user of iron decon products, but oddly enough I've had the same experience with wheels, maybe it's from changing over to ceramic pads, but I get very little color change on my wheels. However, I have had some pretty extreme color changing on a trunklid/back bumper, but that was on a car that sat on a highway dealer lot for a while, not far from an airport, if that had anything to do with it. I don't think I did the whole car, I think it felt gritty in the back there so I sprayed it and it bled quite a bit.