If you need more cut, which do you find is better to go with a more aggressive compound or pad?

[SNP209]

Apex detail did a video a while ago on this topic, really makes you go hmmm...

[chilly]

Apex detail did a video a while ago on this topic, really makes you go hmmm...

I remember this was a real eye opener when it first came out and it is one of those lessons that’s super important (at least to me) but easy to forget when you get caught up in the “gotta have it” moment and you get lost in a sea of too many choices


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[dlc95]

I try and start with a polish and change the pad.

For instance, say I start with Ultimate Polish on a blue Hex pad. If that doesn't do the job, I'll switch to green. If that doesn't work I'll move to a fiber pad.

That doesn't work, I'll go back to green with Ultimate Compound, and to a fiber pad afte that if necessary.

Seems a little convoluted, but those are my pathways.

[chilly]

I try and start with a polish and change the pad.

For instance, say I start with Ultimate Polish on a blue Hex pad. If that doesn't do the job, I'll switch to green. If that doesn't work I'll move to a fiber pad.

That doesn't work, I'll go back to green with Ultimate Compound, and to a fiber pad afte that if necessary.

Seems a little convoluted, but those are my pathways.

There is nothing convoluted about your methodology at all

Unless paint is absolutely trashed I will almost always start with a polish and work backwards just changing pads, even if I KNOW it won’t work, because there have been times that I KNEW it wouldn’t work, but it did, and I had no need for bigger guns

We are taught to use a pad, product, and process best calculated to achieve the desired results, but starting on the gentle end of the calculated spectrum and possibly needing more is the safest way to go in my book and learning your liquids intimately and adjusting pads to suit the situation is a skill worth developing


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[dlc95]

There is nothing convoluted about your methodology at all

Unless paint is absolutely trashed I will almost always start with a polish and work backwards just changing pads, even if I KNOW it won’t work, because there have been times that I KNEW it wouldn’t work, but it did, and I had no need for bigger guns

We are taught to use a pad, product, and process best calculated to achieve the desired results, but starting on the gentle end of the calculated spectrum and possibly needing more is the safest way to go in my book and learning your liquids intimately and adjusting pads to suit the situation is a skill worth developing


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Thank you, Chilly!

I have always liked the idea of having "headroom". Knowing that if the polish / polish pad combo isn't sufficient, there are options in either direction.

The reason I do that is to try and make it a "one step" process.

Ultimate Polish, M205, Menz 2500, Jescar Medium, 3D ACA520 / ONE, Optimum Hyper Polish.

They've all done more than I could have expeced. There were times like you, I "knew they wouldn't work", but I was wrong. Often they finished really well too.

[DUBL0WS6]

If it looks bad, an orange cutting pad is a good place to start. Now, I've had stuff that the orange cutting pad wouldn't remove but moving to a Griots fast finishing MF pad took out.