How to restore the original paint on my 1967 GTO.

[nissene]

I inherited this 1967 GTO from the original owner. It’s really weathered but I want to keep the original paint. Some spots the paint is nonexistent and the oxidation level is high. I’d like to challenge this job by myself and have read numerous articles on how to restore single stage paint. Some say to start with a clay bar another says use comet to get rid of the grit and grime then use No. 7. Anymore suggestions would greatly appreciated!

• DA8CDFD9-3189-4BBF-A456-C57AC351A373.jpg (32.7 KB)
  
  
  • B9ACF249-62F3-4EDC-AB52-D4A28BF309C7.jpg (35.6 KB)
    
  • 53A51B25-BDF8-4D7D-B6D3-1E23F61EE704.jpg (32.7 KB)
  
  
  

[BillyJack]

Start by following this link from 2010: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
The cleanser idea isn't all bad, but I've done a few single -stage lacquer restorations and I prefer either Bon Ami or Barkeepers friend brands for less potential scratching.
Bill

BTW: The El Camino in my avatar was the first OG lacquer paint on which I tried the process. Eight show trophies later, I believe I did it right.

[Rsurfer]

The main thing I would be concerned about is exposed metal and rust.

[2black1s]

Here's how would approach this project if it were me... And I'm an old Pontiac guy from way back so this project really interests me. I've had in the neighborhood of 15 GTOs in my time including a '69 Judge.

First I'd give it the Comet treatment to remove the dead and oxidized paint.

I'd follow that with either (or both) a #7 treatment and/or an oily protectant treatment. Mineral oil or silicone oil is also a good option for this step. The old paint will drink up the nourishing oils and prepare it for polishing. Repeat this step as many times as necessary, until the paint is no longer absorbing the oils or at least until the rate of absorption has significantly slowed.

Next I'd use a fine finishing polish. Something like Meg's 210. How much actual polishing you'll be able to do will be dependent on the paint's condition and you'll need to make that assessment as you proceed.

At this point the paint will be reconditioned as well as it can be given its age, condition, and type (acrylic lacquer from the factory).

For protection, you'll really need to experiment. Many typical waxes/sealants can be a problem on old, compromised paint. Anything that dries to a haze should be avoided as they will turn the finish "chalky" in a fairly quick time frame. Some will actually cloud up the finish immediately, others may take a few days, or weeks.

I've always had the best results using an oily protectant, in lieu of a conventional LSP, as the final finish for situations like yours. If you want to try a more traditional product, I'd try Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax as it is very oily for a wax and it doesn't dry to a cloudy haze (relatively).

Good Luck! I'm jealous!

And forget the clay bar... Totally unnecessary for this project.

[2black1s]

The main thing I would be concerned about is exposed metal and rust.

That is totally dependent on where the car lives and how it is used/stored.

[BillyJack]

The old paint will drink up the nourishing oils and prepare it for polishing. Repeat this step as many times as necessary, until the paint is no longer absorbing the oils or at least until the rate of absorption has significantly slowed.

Next I'd use a fine finishing polish. Something like Meg's 210. How much actual polishing you'll be able to do will be dependent on the paint's condition and you'll need to make that assessment as you proceed.

At this point the paint will be reconditioned as well as it can be given its age, condition, and type (acrylic lacquer from the factory).

For protection, you'll really need to experiment. Many typical waxes/sealants can be a problem on old, compromised paint. Anything that dries to a haze should be avoided as they will turn the finish "chalky" in a fairly quick time frame. Some will actually cloud up the finish immediately, others may take a few days, or weeks.

I've always had the best results using an oily protectant, in lieu of a conventional LSP, as the final finish for situations like yours. If you want to try a more traditional product, I'd try Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax as it is very oily for a wax and it doesn't dry to a cloudy haze (relatively).

Some good points here. Considering the old lacquer is "parched", moisturizing the paint is a good move. I've used the Meguiars' #3 as a machine polish, since it is similar to #7, but with some abrasive content, but M205 or M210, even the consumer Ultimate Polish work very well also. As for the "oily" waxes, Shop products that are wipe on / wipe off without needing to dry to a haze. Some of my favorites over the years are:Wolfgang Fuzion, Pinnacle's Souveran and Signature Series, Blackfire Midnight Sun, even Meguiars' M26 or Gold Class liquids. Since the sides of my Camino aren't as bad as the horizontal panels, Collinite 915 is usually my LSP base there, followed by one of the previous list.
Also, experiment with detail sprays also, as old lacquers are much more sensitive to streaking than modern paints. My current favorites are Griot's Speed Shine and Collinite, but I'm sure many others will work.

Good luck with your project!
I'm an old Pontiac / Oldsmobile fan myself and I'd certainly like to have a 60's GTO or 442 parked next to my Camino in the garage.

Bill

[nissene]

Here's how would approach this project if it were me... And I'm an old Pontiac guy from way back so this project really interests me. I've had in the neighborhood of 15 GTOs in my time including a '69 Judge.

First I'd give it the Comet treatment to remove the dead and oxidized paint.

I'd follow that with either (or both) a #7 treatment and/or an oily protectant treatment. Mineral oil or silicone oil is also a good option for this step. The old paint will drink up the nourishing oils and prepare it for polishing. Repeat this step as many times as necessary, until the paint is no longer absorbing the oils or at least until the rate of absorption has significantly slowed.

Next I'd use a fine finishing polish. Something like Meg's 210. How much actual polishing you'll be able to do will be dependent on the paint's condition and you'll need to make that assessment as you proceed.

At this point the paint will be reconditioned as well as it can be given its age, condition, and type (acrylic lacquer from the factory).

For protection, you'll really need to experiment. Many typical waxes/sealants can be a problem on old, compromised paint. Anything that dries to a haze should be avoided as they will turn the finish "chalky" in a fairly quick time frame. Some will actually cloud up the finish immediately, others may take a few days, or weeks.

I've always had the best results using an oily protectant, in lieu of a conventional LSP, as the final finish for situations like yours. If you want to try a more traditional product, I'd try Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax as it is very oily for a wax and it doesn't dry to a cloudy haze (relatively).

Good Luck! I'm jealous!

And forget the clay bar... Totally unnecessary for this project.

Thank you so much!