First time detailing. My apologies, but I have to ask the questions

[Coatingsarecrack]

I’ve been looking at the Boss pads, LC flat, css, and thin pro pads. Not sure what I’ll get yet.

I’ve tried the LC flats and CCS’s. On my Griots g15 (15mm) and my neighbors older g6 (8mm) the BoSS pads easily outperformed the LC’s

Don’t over think it or try to save a couple of bucks. That’s what I did when I first tried both of the LC pads.

Griots flagship is near me and they let you try products before you buy. Ended up replacing all my pads with the BOSS and the work well with their machines.


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[Brrr]

I use nothing but sealants and never found Reset to degrade them at a faster rate, I’ve actually found the opposite to be true and consider it the best car wash soap if lsp preservation is at the top of the list.

Maybe some people pour too much in their wash bucket. I always made sure to follow the specific recommended dilution ratio, 1.25oz. per bucket wash or some oddball number the directions state.



Don’t use your phones web brouser. Download the YouTube APP.

It does the same thing on the app. Except it’ll show the description and comments on the video.

I’ve tried the LC flats and CCS’s. On my Griots g15 (15mm) and my neighbors older g6 (8mm) the BoSS pads easily outperformed the LC’s

Don’t over think it or try to save a couple of bucks. That’s what I did when I first tried both of the LC pads.

Griots flagship is near me and they let you try products before you buy. Ended up replacing all my pads with the BOSS and the work well with their machines.


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Alright. I’ll give them a try. If they suck, I’m blaming you haha

do you have a link for them? I looked them up on AGO, and the description says it’s for long throw polishers.

The only pads you’ll need when using your Griot’s Garage BOSS G15 or G21 Long Throw Orbital Polisher!

Part of what makes a polisher or buffing machine great is the types of pads used in conjunction with said polisher or buffing machine. Griot’s Garage kept this in mind while engineering the pads that go hand-in-hand with their BOSS System. Due to the large throw of both the BOSS G15 and G21 Dual Action Orbital Polishers, they had to be sure the pads used with those machines would hold up to the power. Their 8mm thick BOSS buffing and polishing pads have been designed for just that. Their low profile build and light weight makes for increased tool stability and a smoother operation all around.

[2wookies]

Please don’t use the 105, yes it used to be the go-to but there’s so many better products out now. Heck even the Griots Fast Correcting Cream is a solid heavy compound. The issue you’re going to run into rather quickly is the lack of power the G9 has, grab a G15 when you can budget it and you’ll be loving life.

Polishers by John Wilkinson, on Flickr

[Shane731]

My advice would be to start with these:

Mike Phillips' Show Car Shine Book & DVD Combo

Don’t get too hung up on brands or “what is the best ______?” There are hundreds and hundreds of brands. “Best” is relative. That being said, you won’t go wrong with Blackfire or McKee’s 37. Both lines are all-inclusive and have whatever you need, from car wash to APC to clay bars to tire dressing to polishes to sealants, keeping making a product selection simple. Jay Leno’s Garage also has fantastic products that you can pick up at Walmart. Good luck!

[dlc95]

Reading and research are important but only to a degree. You have the general idea and received good advice on the products and pads. I’d have to suggest HD One, HD Speed and HD Poxy which are excellent on black paint, easy to use and works well with a variety of pads. Once you start trying to work with the equipment and products, you’ll accelerate your learning experience quickly. Jump in and enjoy it.

This is a great recommendation. I substitute other products for Poxy - not because Poxy isn't good, just that the other products I use are immediately wiped off. Poxy is a great sealant/wax.

The advantage these 3D chemicals have is their ease of use, flexibility, and effectiveness. My biggest pet peeve with any abrasive polishing liquid is dusting, because it just creates more work for me. The 3D line aslo doesn't stain trim or moldings.

If you can return the M105, M110 or D300 are better options. That being said, M105 cuts really well, and when the conditions are right (temp / humidity/ air flow / miindset / technique / prayer for the fathful / divine intervention) it actually works great

With 3D ONE I use Buff and Shine Uro-Fiber pads for correction work, and their yellow Uro-Tec for polishing / finishing. In those instances that require deeper correction I'll use 3D ACA500. In the very, very rare instance I'll use 3D AAT502 for final finishing. 3D ONE is usually sufficient for my finishing.

Griot's G9 is probably more than capable for what you're needs are. I regularly do paint corrections with an original Porter Cable 7424 polisher. I have an arsenal of Rupes polishers that I use as well, when I need more performance out of my polishers. If I can get away with the PC I prefer that tool. It's light, small, durable, reliable, and easy to use.

Regardless of what you choose, the more you work with a product, the more you get to know it. For instance, I learned that if I use too much 3D ONE it's smeary upon removal. It was a turn off at first, but after a reduction of product on the pad it's been a breeze.

[PaulMys]

As a G9 owner and user, I can tell you with all certainty that the LC Flat pads work VERY well with this machine.

I also second the use of the 3D and/or Griot's BOSS liquids. Each brand is at the very top of the industry at this point in time.

[UncleDavy]

Welcome to the hobby Brrr. You will find that what you are doing now and the products you are using now will probably not be the same techniques and products you will be using 2 or 5 years from now. This hobby is evolutionary where products, techniques and chemicals are changing all the time. Try different products and procedures and use what feels and looks best for you. Take the advice from the people on this forum and use what works best for you through trial and error.
The only solid advice I can give you is never to use a towel or a wash mitt that has fallen on the driveway. Listen to your favorite music, stay hydrated and have fun!

[Brrr]

Please don’t use the 105, yes it used to be the go-to but there’s so many better products out now. Heck even the Griots Fast Correcting Cream is a solid heavy compound. The issue you’re going to run into rather quickly is the lack of power the G9 has, grab a G15 when you can budget it and you’ll be loving life.

Polishers by John Wilkinson, on Flickr

Ahh okay. I’ll put the Meg in the back of the shelf for now. From what I’ve read, the G9 should be more than capable. 1000 watts with 8.5 amp motor. The G15 is 1100 watts with 10 amp motor. Once I get through the learning pains and get somewhat familiar with what I’m doing, I’ll definitely try to pick one up. Thank you!

My advice would be to start with these:

Mike Phillips' Show Car Shine Book & DVD Combo

Don’t get too hung up on brands or “what is the best ______?” There are hundreds and hundreds of brands. “Best” is relative. That being said, you won’t go wrong with Blackfire or McKee’s 37. Both lines are all-inclusive and have whatever you need, from car wash to APC to clay bars to tire dressing to polishes to sealants, keeping making a product selection simple. Jay Leno’s Garage also has fantastic products that you can pick up at Walmart. Good luck!

I’ve read a lot of stuff from Mike here on the forums. Really knows his stuff. I’ve seen the Jay Leno stuff in Walmart but just figured it wasn’t much count like most everyThing else. Thanks for the recommendation!!

This is a great recommendation. I substitute other products for Poxy - not because Poxy isn't good, just that the other products I use are immediately wiped off. Poxy is a great sealant/wax.

The advantage these 3D chemicals have is their ease of use, flexibility, and effectiveness. My biggest pet peeve with any abrasive polishing liquid is dusting, because it just creates more work for me. The 3D line aslo doesn't stain trim or moldings.

If you can return the M105, M110 or D300 are better options. That being said, M105 cuts really well, and when the conditions are right (temp / humidity/ air flow / miindset / technique / prayer for the fathful / divine intervention) it actually works great

With 3D ONE I use Buff and Shine Uro-Fiber pads for correction work, and their yellow Uro-Tec for polishing / finishing. In those instances that require deeper correction I'll use 3D ACA500. In the very, very rare instance I'll use 3D AAT502 for final finishing. 3D ONE is usually sufficient for my finishing.

Griot's G9 is probably more than capable for what you're needs are. I regularly do paint corrections with an original Porter Cable 7424 polisher. I have an arsenal of Rupes polishers that I use as well, when I need more performance out of my polishers. If I can get away with the PC I prefer that tool. It's light, small, durable, reliable, and easy to use.

Regardless of what you choose, the more you work with a product, the more you get to know it. For instance, I learned that if I use too much 3D ONE it's smeary upon removal. It was a turn off at first, but after a reduction of product on the pad it's been a breeze.

3D products are definitely on my radar to try out. I did a test panel of the 105 and it dusted really bad. I am definitely going stick to a product once I find one that suited my likings.

As a G9 owner and user, I can tell you with all certainty that the LC Flat pads work VERY well with this machine.

I also second the use of the 3D and/or Griot's BOSS liquids. Each brand is at the very top of the industry at this point in time.

That’s great to know! I’ve ordered some pads, FCC cream and some polishing cream. Can’t wait to try it out and get my first correction under my belt.

Welcome to the hobby Brrr. You will find that what you are doing now and the products you are using now will probably not be the same techniques and products you will be using 2 or 5 years from now. This hobby is evolutionary where products, techniques and chemicals are changing all the time. Try different products and procedures and use what feels and looks best for you. Take the advice from the people on this forum and use what works best for you through trial and error.
The only solid advice I can give you is never to use a towel or a wash mitt that has fallen on the driveway. Listen to your favorite music, stay hydrated and have fun!

Thanks Davy!! I’ve lurked on here and Autopia on and off for a couple of years. Just now decided to take it up seriously. What I have done far, I’ve loved and my wife doesn’t mind it since it keeps her car sharp.


Sorry for the quick responses. Only had a few minutes before I had to get back to work, but I have a few more questions for anyone that’s willing to answer.

1) how do you do the tight spaces, such as under door handles, around lettering, and the dealer decals? I saw another thread where they suggested a microfiber towel with Q Tips to apply the compound and polish. Do you just work it in with a small circular motion or just do the best you can?

2) how do we clean and maintain the undercarriage? I was thinking of putting a small amount APC in with some soap and spraying it with the foam cannon.

3) I ordered some Dream maker. Can I put the 845 on it as a topper or is it a stand alone product?

[dlc95]

1. I do the tight spaces by hand. Letters with foam swabs.

2. I never do those because our cars here in Michigan get too rusty. On the gf's Jeep, I'm going to deep clean everything and install Optimun Gloss Coat to any surface that's appropriate.

3. Dream Maker is a quick detailer, I believe. That or a glossing product. Not meant for real protection. You can probably use it over 845, without incident.

Yeah, M105 has an excruciating learning curve. At least you tried it. Should work great by hand for the door handle recesses. Just make sure not to get it on rubber or trim pieces.

[opie]

1. Do as dlc 95 recommended. Also, each job might be different...as in customer isnt paying for high end sizzlechest quality results lol, so ya might not need to bust out the magnifying glass to get perfectly around the emblems. One reason i like all my vehicles debadged.

2. If you live in an aread where you are suseptable to rust. Look up and look into fluid film(lanolin oil) as an undercoating. It works well for me. Quite easy to spray yourself. Main thing is...ya need an air compressor that can push a minimum of 5-8cfm at 90psi.

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