New Car Paint Correcting Question

[psnt1ol]

A little off topic here and to no disrespect to OP.... I find the "want" to eliminate orange peel amusing. The only time I would flatten a factory paint is for a "garage queen" or someone's "toy" vehicle. You are just asking for it to do that on a DD. Most factory clear is already thin and getting thinner year by year, I been seeing some really thin paint on Japanese brands lately (somewhere around 2.5mil to 2.8 mil) from the factory. The margin of error is simply too great.

On the flip side... I worked on a classic 1980's era Porsche 911 once and the owner was very adamant that I dont flatten the paint. He said all original paint from that era has orange peel and he wanted keep the vehicle looking like that. The first thing he did after I was done was to inspect the orange peel. LOL

[Mike Phillips]

It has a little more orange peel from the factory than I am used to.

I don't know how much clear coat I would have to sacrifice to correct this. What are your thoughts. I would appreciate any input you could give me.

Thanks,
Tom Koehler

I explain in-depth the issues surrounding the topic of wetsanding FACTORY paint here,

Wetsanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint


Then read this,

Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips



Then read this,

Wetsanding removes paint - Compounding removes paint - Polishing removes a little paint



Then if you really want a different perspective - BEFORE you do any sanding - take your car to a couple of reputable body shops and ask them how much it will cost to repaint JUST the hood. Let that sink in.


The factory paint is thin to start with - even if you, or myself or someone else really skilled at machine sanding were able to wetsand and remove the orange peel, compound and polish and NEVER go through the clear layer of topcoat pain - you would now have an incredibly thin layer of clearcoat over the car to protect it over the mechanical service life of the car and this escalates the risk for clearcoat failure down the road.


If it were me and my new car?

I would,

1. Wash and dry
2. Clay
3. Machine polish
4. Use a panel wipe
5. Install a coating

Stick a fork in it and call it done. Enjoy the car knowing you did what was best.

[TJKII]

I explain in-depth the issues surrounding the topic of wetsanding FACTORY paint here,

Wetsanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint


Then read this,

Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips



Then read this,

Wetsanding removes paint - Compounding removes paint - Polishing removes a little paint



Then if you really want a different perspective - BEFORE you do any sanding - take your car to a couple of reputable body shops and ask them how much it will cost to repaint JUST the hood. Let that sink in.


The factory paint is thin to start with - even if you, or myself or someone else really skilled at machine sanding were able to wetsand and remove the orange peel, compound and polish and NEVER go through the clear layer of topcoat pain - you would now have an incredibly thin layer of clearcoat over the car to protect it over the mechanical service life of the car and this escalates the risk for clearcoat failure down the road.


If it were me and my new car?

I would,

1. Wash and dry
2. Clay
3. Machine polish
4. Use a panel wipe
5. Install a coating

Stick a fork in it and call it done. Enjoy the car knowing you did what was best.

Thanks for you input. I really appreciate it.

[TJKII]

What would you recommend for the polish step? I was considering HD one and an orange pad. Would that be too aggressive?

[Mike Phillips]

Hi, I just bought a 2020 Nissan Sentra in December. It has a little more orange peel from the factory than I am used to. I have not waxed or coated it as yet. The dealer applied some kind of coating before putting the car in stock.

What would you recommend for the polish step?

I was considering HD one and an orange pad. Would that be too aggressive?

No. 3D One is a great Compound/Polish but it's definitely NOT a super aggressive compound.

I do actually really like this product and in fact, used it on the last two cars I detailed. What I like is the super long buffing cycle. Zero dusting. Stays wet on the surface. Easy wipe off.


You mentioned an orange pad but not the tool?


I hate guessing but end up doing on this forum all the time. So I'm guessing the orange pad is something from Lake Country or Griot's? If so this will be fine on just about any tool except a rotary polishers.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi, I just bought a 2020 Nissan Sentra in December. It has a little more orange peel from the factory than I am used to. I have not waxed or coated it as yet. The dealer applied some kind of coating before putting the car in stock.

What would you recommend for the polish step?

I was considering HD one and an orange pad. Would that be too aggressive?

No. 3D One is a great Compound/Polish but it's definitely NOT a super aggressive compound.

I do actually really like this product and in fact, used it on the last two cars I detailed. What I like is the super long buffing cycle. Zero dusting. Stays wet on the surface. Easy wipe off.


I'm guessing the orange pad is something from Lake Country?

If so this will be fine on just about any tool except a rotary polishers.

[TJKII]

I have a beast and a porter cable. The pad is lake country CCS. Sorry for the lack of info.

[Mike Phillips]

I have a beast and a porter cable. The pad is lake country CCS. Sorry for the lack of info.

No problemo - I'm a speed typist so it's easy for me to always be very exact and thorough.


The Lake Country Orange CCS pad will work find on both tools and also work fine with the 3D One.

If it were me? I would do a Test Spot first, for example on the hood or trunk lid - then inspect closely and make sure the paint looks like you hope and dream about before buffing out the entire car.