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560SL Paint Protetion
560SL Paint Protetion
Hello Everyone,
I have a 1986 Mercedes 560SL, the paint is single stage and red.
I did a light polishing with chemical guys V36 & V38, it still had some heavy swirls but I'm not sure how thin/thick the paint is so I didn't get very aggressive.
After that I used a glaze, wax, and sealant to protect the paint and reapply wax every few weeks and reapply all 3 every 2 months or so.
The issue is when I left the car outside in the rain it left some heavy water spots that I had to buff out.
Also spilled brake fluid on the paint and stained it.
Other than not driving in the rain does anyone have any good ideas how to protect the paint from water spots/gas/brake fluid...?
I was think of going with ceramic coating or using a clear wrap on the horizontal surfaces but I'm not sure whats best, this is the first car I have owned thats single stage...
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
Hi R107Guys,
Welcome to AutogeekOnline!
Time stamp on your post is 01-17-2021, 06:05 PM or Sunday, January 17th, at 6:005pm - so I was offline at that time.
Playing catch-up right now, just finished shooting a new TV Commercial with Yancy in the garage. Let me read through your post and see what I can offer.
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Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
Originally Posted by R107Guys
560SL Paint Protection
Hello Everyone,
I have a 1986 Mercedes 560SL, the paint is single stage and red.
I've buffed out a number of these in my life. Here's an example of one such detail job.
Pictures - 1989 Mercedes-Benz - Low Mileage Beauty All Original Beauty!
I believe the factory paint is Glasurit, a very high quality brand of paint. I've always loved how the Glasurit paints buff.
In fact, I made this same comment back in 2013 here,
Looking for Pebble Beach shine on a 300SL
Originally Posted by R107Guys
I did a light polishing with chemical guys V36 & V38, it still had some heavy swirls but I'm not sure how thin/thick the paint is so I didn't get very aggressive.
I talk a LOT about abrasive technology on this forum, in videos and in the real-world. I would recommend the Wolfgang line of polishes for your Mercedes-Benz. I think you could do everything you ever want to do with just the Total Swirl Remover.
The Wolfgang Four
Here are four products that will take care of about 99.9% of any exterior paint correction product you'll ever have in your garage.
The Wolfgang Four
Originally Posted by R107Guys
After that I used a glaze, wax, and sealant to protect the paint and reapply wax every few weeks and reapply all 3 every 2 months or so. The issue is when I left the car outside in the rain it left some heavy water spots that I had to buff out.
Yup. Old single stage paints can get a very unique type of water spot where after the water penetrates INTO the paint it fades it to white. Here's my article on water spots and I actually have a picture of this type of water spots.
3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III
Type III Water Spots
Type III Water Spots are spots that look faded or dull and are found primarily found on single stage paints after a water source lands on and then pools on the paint and is usually left to dwell on the surface for some measure of time before it evaporates or is wiped-off the surface.
Modern clear coat paints tend to be harder and impermeable, that is non-porous, so liquids don't penetrated easily and thus stain spots tend to be topical, that is only affect the very upper surface and are easier and safer to remove with a compound or polish.
Older single stage paints tend to be soft and permeable, or porous, it's common for liquids to penetrate into the paint and stain the paint below the surface. Removing stains out of single stage paints can be risky because in order to remove the stains you have to abrade the paint and if the stains penetrated deep then you risk removing too much in an effort to try to remove them completely.
Originally Posted by R107Guys
Also spilled brake fluid on the paint and stained it.
Ouch!
Brake Fluid on single stage paint tends to turn the paint purple or blue.
Did this happen?
Originally Posted by R107Guys
Other than not driving in the rain does anyone have any good ideas how to protect the paint from water spots/gas/brake fluid...?
I was think of going with ceramic coating or using a clear wrap on the horizontal surfaces but I'm not sure whats best, this is the first car I have owned that's single stage...
Here's what I would suggest. Try the new 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating, this stuff is pretty stout.
You can apply it over the paint just like it is now or you can re-polish the paint and then apply. You don't have to use a Panel Wipe before use.
Panel Wipe = Solvent of some sort which will tend to dull down single stage paint.
You can use a ceramic coating on single stage paint the issue is getting the paint clean without dulling it. One option would be to machine polish using the Dr. Beasley's NSP 45, (a dedicated fine cut polish), or the Dr. Beasley's Z1, which is a one-step Ceramic All-in-One. The thing about these products is you don't have to chemically strip before applying the coating.
For a coating - I'd recommend the BLACKFIRE BLACK EDITION. Apply 2 coats. This stuff is freaking bullet proof.
The 303 option would be quick, fast and easy. The ceramic coating option will take time and multiple step.
Hope that helps...
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Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
If it were me?
I would re-polish with the Total Swirl Remover and a foam polishing pad and then apply the 303 Graphene and cross my fingers.
No way of knowing what will work until you try.
For others that will read this into the future - consider this some education on the difference between single stage paints and modern clearcoats.
Single stage paints are PERMEABLE or POROUS - liquids can go INTO them.
Clearcoats paints are IMPERMEABLE or NON-POROUS - liquids just sit on the top of them. Modern clearcoats are closer to plastic than to real paint.
Wow! I go to Skynet and type in
Permeable impermeable mike phillips autogeekonline.net
and this pulls up....
Permeable and Impermeable - Towel Control for Ceramic Coatings
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Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
If it were me?
I would re-polish with the Total Swirl Remover and a foam polishing pad and then apply the 303 Graphene and cross my fingers.
No way of knowing what will work until you try...
This all was really helpful, lot of info for me to go though! The brake fluid just made the paint lighter and a hazy red. I would post a picture but I won't be back home for a few more weeks. I think I'm going to start out by finding a budget paint depth gauge, I'm really worried of burning through the paint. If it looks thick enough I'll get the wolfgang and put some more work in followed up by the 303. Seems like ceramic coating might not be the best option give single stage is permeable.
For the 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating would it be best to just use it stand alone or could I add glaze & wax (if so in what order should that happen)?
Mike thank you so much for your help this was absolutely amazing!!!
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560SL Paint Protetion
Originally Posted by R107Guys
For the 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating would it be best to just use it stand alone
Just use it stand alone.
It's a tick sticky to wipe off. The key is to apply a super thin coat. I have ONE microfiber applicator pad that I found here at Autogeek, the one you see in my write-up. It's thicker than the similar applicators we sell on the AG store.
This one,
The foam is denser too so it's not a squishy like the thinner versions we sell. I like the thinner versions we sell they just don't work as good as this thicker model as they are harder to grip and then spread the product. Seems like a tiny little detail but it makes a huge difference when applying the product.
Autogeek or 303 should really find out where this thicker applicator pad came from and GET THEM.
Look at how I'm able to grip it?
But any applicator will do the job. I won't let this one get out of my sight. I used it two weekends ago to apply the 303 Graphene Nano Spray to the original single stage paint on a 1969 Corvette I detailed.
Originally Posted by R107Guys
or could I add glaze & wax (if so in what order should that happen)?
Using a glaze and/or a wax would be redundant and there would be no extra benefit. The 303 product works great by itself.
Your goal or your wish is this graphene product is stout enough to seal the surface and prevent any future exposure to water from penetrating. I would apply a second coat to the horizontal surfaces after waiting for about an hour.
Originally Posted by R107Guys
Mike thank you so much for your help this was absolutely amazing!!!
This forum is just a part of Autogeek's normal Customer Care Department. Unlike calling us or e-mail us - what I share can be seen by others for decades to come. No one sees a phone call or an e-mail.
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