Need guidance with which Griot’s products

[Inverted]

Hi Mike,

I own a Griot’s 3” polisher. As well as a set of Griot’s black and red pads. I just picked up their correcting cream and 3-1 Griot’s Liquid wax.

I have a new Ford Raptor (grey) that I need to remove swirl marks from. I’m attempting to do the least abrasive approach possible, without wasting time.

I’m planning to use the black pad with the 3-1 Wax. Is this the proper step, or should I go right to the correcting cream. I hope to keep this truck forever , so I’m trying to preserve the factory finish and clear coat

thanks

[Bruno Soares]

If you have swirls to remove, I find it very unlikely a finishing pad will do. You'll need at least a light polishing pad, depending on how hard the clear coat is, a medium cut polishing pad is necessary.

And you plan on doing a whole truck with a 3" polisher? I guess you're a very patient person and has lots of free time

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Mike,

I own a Griot’s 3” polisher. As well as a set of Griot’s black and red pads. I just picked up their correcting cream and 3-1 Griot’s Liquid wax.

I have a new Ford Raptor (grey) that I need to remove swirl marks from. I’m attempting to do the least abrasive approach possible, without wasting time.

I’m planning to use the black pad with the 3-1 Wax. Is this the proper step, or should I go right to the correcting cream. I hope to keep this truck forever , so I’m trying to preserve the factory finish and clear coat

thanks

You can TEST the black pads with the Correcting Cream. It might work, depends on the paint hardness and depth of the defects you're trying to remove.

I've corrected a couple of Raptors - I remember the paint being on the MEDIUM side of the hard and soft paint spectrum.

If you have swirls to remove, I find it very unlikely a finishing pad will do. You'll need at least a light polishing pad, depending on how hard the clear coat is, a medium cut polishing pad is necessary.

And you plan on doing a whole truck with a 3" polisher? I guess you're a very patient person and has lots of free time

I agree with Bruce.

It IS important to use the least aggressive process to get the job done and therefore leave the most paint on the truck while - getting the job done.... but reality is a foam finishing pad is very soft. I sometimes put my make-up on in the morning using the Griot's black foam finishing pads.


I'd say you're going to want about 6 to a dozen foam polishing or even foam cutting pads.


Question: Are you trying to buff out the entire truck using a Griot's 3" Mini Polisher?


This one?

[Inverted]

If you have swirls to remove, I find it very unlikely a finishing pad will do. You'll need at least a light polishing pad, depending on how hard the clear coat is, a medium cut polishing pad is necessary.

And you plan on doing a whole truck with a 3" polisher? I guess you're a very patient person and has lots of free time

thanks. I have a 6” Bauer too. The 3” is for spot treatment and tight areas

So black pad and correcting cream?

[Inverted]

You can TEST the black pads with the Correcting Cream. It might work, depends on the paint hardness and depth of the defects you're trying to remove.

I've corrected a couple of Raptors - I remember the paint being on the MEDIUM side of the hard and soft paint spectrum.






I agree with Bruce.

It IS important to use the least aggressive process to get the job done and therefore leave the most paint on the truck while - getting the job done.... but reality is a foam finishing pad is very soft. I sometimes put my make-up on in the morning using the Griot's black foam finishing pads.


I'd say you're going to want about 6 to a dozen foam polishing or even foam cutting pads.


Question: Are you trying to buff out the entire truck using a Griot's 3" Mini Polisher?


This one?

Thanks for your insight as always Mike. Yes, that’s the polisher ! Bought it from this site and love it!

So with Raptor paint being on the medium / soft side, there are no concerns if proper technique is used ? Is the general consensus I move to a more abrasive pad ? Which of the following do you suggest? And with the correcting cream? Assuming it would be ok to follow with the 3-1 wax after?

I have the following 3” pads:

-tangerine pad (H20-230)
-blue (H20–930)
-red (H20-130)
-Griots black pad
-Griot’s red pad

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks for your insight as always Mike. Yes, that’s the polisher ! Bought it from this site and love it!

So with Raptor paint being on the medium / soft side, there are no concerns if proper technique is used ?

It's not that there are no concerns about using proper technique - it's just that with the tool, pads and products you have I would say the LEAST of your worries is buffing through the clear coat.

Is the general consensus I move to a more abrasive pad ?

Yes.

Which of the following do you suggest? And with the correcting cream?

I have the following 3” pads:

-tangerine pad (H20-230)
-blue (H20–930)

Test the tangerine and then the blue and inspect the results.

With this size of pads and this type of tool you'll definitely want to run the tool on MAX SPEED. And be sure to mark the back of your backing plate like you see I've done in the picture above. The pad MUST rotate if you're going to remove swirls.

You're also going to need about a dozen pads to do this in one day and that still might not be enough. As the pads get wet with product they become soft and then they STOP doing what they're supposed to do.

A cutting pad stops cutting because it becomes a finishing pad once it's wet.
A polishing pad stops polishing because it becomes a finishing pad once it's wet.

I just explained ALL of this in our LIVE DETAILING CLASS we shoot every Tuesday.


Here's the link,

Complete List of Live Broadcast Videos on YouTube - Yancy Martinez & Mike Phillips

Watch video number #5

Assuming it would be ok to follow with the 3-1 wax after?

Definitely.

When you use small pads on large panels, even using all the best stuff, (pads, products tools and technique), there is an increase in the risk of leaving micro-marring simply due to the pad diameter size. Just something I've seen.

So if the first step process removes all the swirls and scratches but leaves micro-marring or a "Shadow Pattern" in the paint. A softer pad and the 3-in1 will remove it.

[Inverted]

Thanks!!

[Inverted]

So I used my Griott’s 3” buffer with a Griott’s orange pad and Griott’s Correcting Boss cream. *Most* of the defects were removed. I went over about 5-6x. I followed up with a black pad and the 3-1 wax. But there are still some areas showing deeper scratches.

My question: Should I try a more coarse pad and stick with the Correcting Cream as a next step ? Or should I use a more coarse pad AND more aggressive product ?

I was thinking of using the blue pad next. Is this more coarse then the Griott’s orange ? Single 3 x 1.25 Inch Hydro-Tech Cyan Advanced Cutting Foam Pad

[PaulMys]

So I used my Griott’s 3” buffer with a Griott’s orange pad and Griott’s Correcting Boss cream. *Most* of the defects were removed. I went over about 5-6x. I followed up with a black pad and the 3-1 wax. But there are still some areas showing deeper scratches.

My question: Should I try a more coarse pad and stick with the Correcting Cream as a next step ? Or should I use a more coarse pad AND more aggressive product ?

I was thinking of using the blue pad next. Is this more coarse then the Griott’s orange ? Single 3 x 1.25 Inch Hydro-Tech Cyan Advanced Cutting Foam Pad

Always change to a more aggressive pad with the same product before trying both.

The goal is to find the Least Aggressive combo.

[Inverted]

I wonder if the Lake Country Cyan pad is more aggressive than the Griott’s orange. Does anyone know ?