Would you include water spot removal in a basic detail package? and how to?

[mikejames]

Try some distilled vinegar on the water spotted glass.

[TMQ]

Hard to say re: how serious the etch is on the wind shield. Best to test w/ compound. Take a towel w/ compound and rub to see what happens.
If it comes off by hand---then you'll know.

I've always been against steel wool. The problem it rusts all around bottom of the glass/ get stuck behind seals/chrome etc.

Was working in body shop and was ordered against my wishes and told to use steel wool. Well lo and behold---couple days later after a rain storm etc. there was rust all around car along bottom edges of glass and rust all over the new white paint! Needless to say---I was furious with manger and told him he was (several "nasty" words here). And to rub "salt" in my wound---was told I had to fix it! Per near killed the some-bach! Took me several days to fix it!

Don't get me wrong---steel wool is great if done very carefully (deep cleaning afterwards using air etc).

Tom

[VR8]

Have you ever had any issue with the water spot cleaners etching glass? I seem to see that issue a lot with all that I have looked at.

With a proper pad, product and procedure there should be no problems etching the glass. It is, as they say, "hard as glass". I'd suggest for the initial trials, use your favorite paint surface correction compound. For me, I can knock out most spots with Meguiar's #105. The only worry I've ever had using this method is getting the glass so hot from repeated efforts. So, keep it cool.

[RMarkJr]

Hard to say re: how serious the etch is on the wind shield. Best to test w/ compound. Take a towel w/ compound and rub to see what happens.
If it comes off by hand---then you'll know.

I've always been against steel wool. The problem it rusts all around bottom of the glass/ get stuck behind seals/chrome etc.

Was working in body shop and was ordered against my wishes and told to use steel wool. Well lo and behold---couple days later after a rain storm etc. there was rust all around car along bottom edges of glass and rust all over the new white paint! Needless to say---I was furious with manger and told him he was (several "nasty" words here). And to rub "salt" in my wound---was told I had to fix it! Per near killed the some-bach! Took me several days to fix it!

Don't get me wrong---steel wool is great if done very carefully (deep cleaning afterwards using air etc).

Tom

interesting note about the rust. Have you ever had any swirls on the glass from using compound that you had to get out with another product?

[RMarkJr]

With a proper pad, product and procedure there should be no problems etching the glass. It is, as they say, "hard as glass". I'd suggest for the initial trials, use your favorite paint surface correction compound. For me, I can knock out most spots with Meguiar's #105. The only worry I've ever had using this method is getting the glass so hot from repeated efforts. So, keep it cool.

When you use M105 do you typically use a cutting foam pad or something like a polish pad with it? and have you ever had any swirls in the glass after using the compound?

[Eldorado2k]

Ya I can see the scratches in those pictures for sure.

but you did say you were using metal polishes. Doesnt metal polishes have abrasives in them? Maybe its the combination of the steel wool and the abrasives in the metal polishes that are causing the scratches?

Have you tried to use the steel wool with something like a regular liquid cleaner and it leave scratches?

Yea, the steel wool used alone wouldn't scratch that surface, neither would the metal polishes when used alone.

Have I used steel wool with regular liquid cleaner and had it scratch? Well there's not many liquid cleaners I can think of... You mean like diluted APC or glass cleaner? I don't think I'd ever really consider using either of those with the steel wool. I think some people say they do, but I just don't see how that's a good idea.


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[CarolinasFinestDetailing]

Its important to neutralize them first. I keep a bottle of Spotless and if I detail a vehicle with bad spots, I will usually try a small spot with it to see if there will come out. If the remover will take them out, I will usually let the customer know and uncharge a bit if they wish. If it need polishing, ill quote as well. Waterspotting is crucial to point out to customer and note on your inspection form as well. Its a great time to educate the customer.

[RMarkJr]

Yea, the steel wool used alone wouldn't scratch that surface, neither would the metal polishes when used alone.

Have I used steel wool with regular liquid cleaner and had it scratch? Well there's not many liquid cleaners I can think of... You mean like diluted APC or glass cleaner? I don't think I'd ever really consider using either of those with the steel wool. I think some people say they do, but I just don't see how that's a good idea.


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Well I see some water spot removers that look like a liquid and not a paste with abrasives. So something like that with 0000 steel wool. I wouldnt think that would scratch a window would it?

[RMarkJr]

Its important to neutralize them first. I keep a bottle of Spotless and if I detail a vehicle with bad spots, I will usually try a small spot with it to see if there will come out. If the remover will take them out, I will usually let the customer know and uncharge a bit if they wish. If it need polishing, ill quote as well. Waterspotting is crucial to point out to customer and note on your inspection form as well. Its a great time to educate the customer.

When you say important to neutralize them first .. are you saying need to remove the water spots out first before you polish? Also .. if the remover takes them out .. why would you charge them less? you are still doing an extra step before the polishing? or was the polishing to get the water spots out?

[Ceerokz]

Thats should be a add on to a basic wash