Can I use Ultimate Compound (or should I skip to only using Ultimate Polish)?

[RolloMay]

Ultimate Compound and then Ultimate Polish, OR must I skip to only, Ultimate Polish? (see below)

I've finished painting my car with an acrylic enamel aerosol paint.

Next: Can I (still) use Ultimate Compound first and then Ultimate Polish?

Or: Since it's not a lacquer paint, must I only use Ultimate Polish?

Sincerely,

Rollo

[Setec Astronomy]

Well, I've never buffed acrylic enamel aerosol paint...but if the level of defects or correction you need dictates a compound, then start with the compound.

How long ago did you paint it?

[dlc95]

I wonder if there is a need for bodybshop safe products on fresh paint?

[Octopiston]

Aerosol as in rattle can? If so, i wouldn't think there would be a thick enough layer to use either.
Then again, if that is the case. Try it, its just spray paint. Respray if it eats through.

[RolloMay]

Aerosol as in rattle can? If so, i wouldn't think there would be a thick enough layer to use either.
Then again, if that is the case. Try it, its just spray paint. Respray if it eats through.

I'm somewhat new to the forum, thus I meant this reply to be to all of the recommendations received (not just the one quoted, above).

I painted it about a week ago. Can says to let it dry seven days before "doing anything". Seems like I read in a post last year where Mike (Philips) said to only "polish" car,
(if painted with acrylic enamel aerosol); but I wasn't 100% sure. I ask because I've heard good things about "ultimate compound").

Thanks,

Rollo

[RolloMay]

I wonder if there is a need for bodybshop safe products on fresh paint?

I don't think I explained the situation completely enough here, my apologies, as this is my first question posted, though I have followed this forum for quite some time.
I meant that finally after doing all of the prep work involved I have finally finished painting this car. And used an aerosol, acrylic enamel, high gloss black (Duplicolor) followed by a "crystal clear" (aerosol, acrylic enamel), one week later (which I forgot to mention). Yes. (Ie. rattle cans). I meant after waiting at least a week, before
buffing.

With that: The reason I asked my question, is because it seems like I remember reading in a post by "Mike P." from a year or two ago, that he stated if one "went this
route" (Ie. rattle cans- 1k - ss paint), one should then merely then use, "Meguire's Ultimate Polish" (only), not "Ult. Compound".
However, I was speaking with the owner of an auto supply shop a few months ago, who I believe knew the "route" I was painting my car, and was stating that, "Meguire's has recently (within the last couple of years) come out with some pretty amazing products".

If I used the Ultimate compound, I would be using it on the "crystal clear coat" (which was applied second).

Thanks,
Rollo

[BillE]

I'd start with the 'polish' first, then consider 'compound'.

ALWAYS start with the least aggressive method(s) first.

In my own experiences with rattle can paint jobs, after wet/damp sanding, most times I can finish off with just a 'polish'.

Bill

[RolloMay]

First, I forgot to mention in my post, that I "then", followed-up by painting it with an acrylic enamel aerosol paint/clear. (So the first was a Gloss Black. Then a week later, a painted over that with a, Crystal clear). That was actually a recommendation from an agent at Duplicolor (which is the aerosol paint I used). So, in a sense I was really talking about actually buffing the "crystal clear coat" (if you will); though I know it's not BC/CC, but that was the intention/idea, anyway. As I painted the entire car, which took a while; I didn't begin buffing (which by now, I already began, etc.. since my post), until I'd finished painting, and began buffing the area where I first began painting. Bottom Line: probably about 3 weeks, until I started buffing. I ended up going ahead and trying the Ultimate Compound first and then the Ultimate polish. This worked well on one side. Then on the other side; I tried the same, but saw some areas which needed more work, so took off the compound and polish with denatured alcohol, and then used a DA sander with only 2000/3000 grit to cut it a bit. It seemed to have gotten out a few of the rough spots. This weekend, I'll probably go back and retry the ultimate compound and ultimate polish once again. Thanks for your reply.

[RolloMay]

Really. Great post Bill. I appreciate it. I'll have to remember that. Thanks. Do you know if only using the polish (and no compound), after of course first wet sanding it smooth, would leave you with less oxidation?

[RolloMay]

I didn't mean I had finished painting the car (yesterday). I meant that I had finished. It took quite some time, as I painted the entire car. Getting out the dents, working the Bondo; and then getting the car prepped for paint to a great while. So, in this case; time is relative, as it's been several weeks. Didn't mean to mislead you.