Rotary Buffer Question

[mcpp66]

This past weekend, at my detail training, I used a rotary for the first time. The trainers advised us to slightly lift the pad to one side when buffing because when holding the pad flat to the surface the rotary will tend to walk. When I tried to hold the pad flat the buffer most certainly did want to walk on me. However when I did as advised I had more control. I just purchased the AG online video with Mike Phillips demonstrating some tips on the use of a rotary. In his video he was holding the pad flat and it was not walking on him. How do you keep the pad flat on the surface and maintain control of the buffer? I would rather keep the entire pad flat than lift it to one side.

[93fox]

Center the pad 100% correctly. This is key. If the pad is off a bit then yes it will hop and do its own thing. But center it 100% in the middle to the backing plate and that will never happen. One other thing, the smaller the pad the easier it is to control. I use 5.5 inch pads on my rotary and its a breeze to control. Where was this training at that you took?

[mcpp66]

Detail King. I've seen others do this as well. However that seems to be an inefficient use of the pad but when I held the pad flat it did want to walk. The pad was perfectly centered on the rotary. It wasn't a hook and loop interface, the way the pad snapped onto the rotary it couldn't be anything but centered perfectly.

[CleanGene]

My friend, I'm afraid the trainers advised you wrong. You should try to keep your pad as flat to the surface as possible to prevent uneven pressure on the pad which can and usually does lead to holograms. The only time you may ever so slightly lift your pad to one side is at the end of a pass to get it moving in the opposite direction and even then it's not necessary. At the right pace, a rotary can be easily managed. It's usually when people go to fast that they have problems controlling them. Start slow and get comfortable with the machine and speed will come.

[mcpp66]

Looks like I'll need to get a junk panel so that I can practice on something. The thing is I wasn't moving the rotary fast, I always do slow passes so that the machine, pad, and compound have time to remove the defects.

[Bates Detailing]

Practice! Lots of practice! Please learn to hold the pad flat - better results will come

[AeroCleanse]

I find it best to tip the buffer slightly, while making sure all the pad is in contact.

[Bates Detailing]

When I train my guys it baffles me why they cant quite grasp the rotary (I'll never be a professional teacher lol) But then I realize that I have been doing it so long that I just know my makita. Once you do it enough you will easily feel where the rotary is going and be able to control it with ease. Another thing - try a wool pad.... way easier to control than a foam pad at first IMO.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

There's DEFINITELY a learning curve with a rotary. I tried for a short time to learn, but didn't have the patience. It's not easy to master and you have to deal with holograms. Maybe sometime in the future I'll go back to it.

[oldmodman]

Looks like I'll need to get a junk panel so that I can practice on something. The thing is I wasn't moving the rotary fast, I always do slow passes so that the machine, pad, and compound have time to remove the defects.

That's what I did. When Mike was here on the west coast he suggested getting a junk yard hood and using it as a practice piece.
It was invaluable. I was able to learn control of the rotary. Plus I was able to see how much correction each type of compound and pad would produce. And how much was needed to burn through the clear. I also got a good feel for how to use my paint thickness meter.
And after I had turned that hood into a disaster I used it to learn how to use spray can clear to fix both small and big problems.

Get a hood and some saw horses to put it on then have a ball.