What Polisher should I get? curvy panels

[psnt1ol]

im concerned that a g8 or similar 3" polisher would still be too large for a bunch of spots on my car, I was really hoping someone with experience doing an F type could weight in as well.

Theres a rupes nano long neck for sale second hand near me for about 50% off retail atm but id be hard pressed to want to do the whole car with a 2" polisher?

the G8 comes with a 2" backing plate as well.

[psnt1ol]

Scrubbing tires with a corded machine is not safe imo. Using a cordless drill for tires is a safer way to clean your tires. Plus a rotary will not stall like a DA will.

I hear what you are saying.

I only use heavy gauged marine grade extension cord. The amount of cleaning liquid I used is just a tad more than what I would use when wet sanding with a DA. Rubber soles , rubber mat, and rubber gloves are used.


I rinse with power washer only when all the scrubbing has been completed.

[Coatingsarecrack]

If your worried about stalling on curves go forced rotation. A flex product.

You could also look to take a class and learn how to get a free spinning DA to “dance” on the paint.


I fear if you have stalling issues with your PC, you may also have it with the Griots or that matter most DA’s.

A Mini 3” and Nano would still be great for tight spots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mc2hill]

Like others have said - go to a Flex forced rotation.
I have a Rupes 15 MKII and a Rupe Mini, and they always worked fine...until I did a few Porsche cars & SUVs. The curves stalled the 15, so I ended up doing 1/2 the car with the Mini. A Flex would have made the job much easier.

[Desertnate]

I attacked the problem in a couple different ways: Tools and pads.

Pads: Before I went with a two-tool set up I kept a combination of different pads and swapped them out as needed on my primary, "big" polisher. To this day, I still do this depending on the surface I'm working on. For larger flat areas like a hood or trunk deck, I'll use thinner pads. For curvy areas like fenders, some doors, running boards, etc, I'll use a thicker pad which will conform better to the irregular surface and make it easier to keep the pad flat on the surface.

Tools: I ended up going with a two-tool set up. Right now I've got a G15 and a G8 and it covers all the bases for me nicely when used in conjunction with a combination of pads.

[Mike Phillips]

id be hard pressed to want to do the whole car with a 2" polisher?

The three tools I predominantly use when I buff out most cars are,

FLEX Supa BEAST
RUPES Nano Long Neck in Rotary Mode - 1" pad
FLEX PiXiE with the 12mm orbital connector and a 2" backing plate with a 3" foam pad


Here's an example of where I use the Nano Long Neck

Paint Correction - George Harrison's 1966 Ferrari 275 GTS - Pinnacle Jeweling Wax & Souveran Paste Wax













Here's everything I used....







Just an old 2-door European job....

[Mike Phillips]

Here's another example of where and how I use the RUPES Nano Long Neck


Doing Edge Work with RUPES Nano in Rotary Mode - Mike Phillips Style





Just another old 2-door European job....

[clidefr0g]

Beautiful car!

Thank you for your input Mike. I see you're using the cordless versions in your picture, do you prefer them over the corded machines? Could you link me to the supa beast that you recommend?

[Bruno Soares]

Beautiful car!

Thank you for your input Mike. I see you're using the cordless versions in your picture, do you prefer them over the corded machines? Could you link me to the supa beast that you recommend?

See post #4 where I provided the link for the Supa BEAST

[Mike Phillips]

Beautiful car!

Thank you for your input Mike. I see you're using the cordless versions in your picture,

do you prefer them over the corded machines?

Here's an article I wrote about the FLEX BEAST Family.

FLEX Power Tools Nicknames - All cool tools should have a nickname - not a part number -Mike Phillips


Here's what I wrote in post #3 - on 05-21-2020, 09:42 AM and I still think the same way.


Here's my take on the above 3 gear-driven tools


The BEAST
If I REALLY want to bust out a job and plow through it as fast as humanly possible I use the BEAST.


The Supa BEAST
If not trying to hit Warp Speed - I grab the Supa Beast, much more enjoyable to use. Amazing tool. Smoother, quieter, lighter and cooler than the original.


The CBEAST
If I have an easy job, that means the car has only light swirls, scratches, etc. and I'm not in a hurry then I grab the CBEAS

Could you link me to the supa beast that you recommend?

Here's what I use about 99.9% of the time.

The SUPA BEAST