Restoring Chola's Honda 750CB Chopper -Clint Eastwood Movie - Every Which Way But Loose

[Mike Phillips]

Restoring Chola's Honda 750CB Chopper -Clint Eastwood Movie - Every Which Way But Loose






NOTE: This is a re-do of the original write-up I started that went south.



Here's an interesting and cool project. I get an e-mail from a gentleman asking me for help restoring the Chopper Chola rode in the movie, Every Which Way But Loose, with Clint Eastwood and Sandra Locke as the two featured actors. Another established actor in the movie was John Quade he played the head of the biker gang, The Black Widows.

The owner of this bike is looking for help to restore it's appearance without doing any major modifications. The goal being to keep it as original as possible.

The the Honda 750CB Chopper in it's current condition that John Quade aka Chola, rode in the Clint Eastwood movie, Every Which Way But Loose.














Here's a couple of shots I could find on the Internet showing Chola riding the Chopper.






I remember John Quade as being an interesting looking person and this led him to playing the stereotypical bad guy in much of the work he did as an Actor. While researching the bike I found this page,

Remembering Actor John Quade & The Black Widows





And this page, John Quade




It's easier to find information out about John Quade, the guy that wrote the Honda 750 CB Chopper than it is to find information out about the Chopper itself.

Interesting person.


As for the Chopper? I wish I lived closer, I would love to lend a hand as best as I can to help with this project.

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


First, I’m not an expert at detailing old choppers or any type of motorcycles. I’ve owned a bunch and took care of them, but I never got into detailing bikes like Harley Davidsons or Honda Goldwings, etc.

They are intricate, complicated and time consuming. I’m more of a muscle car guy mostly because they are simple to detail and I’m lazy by nature.

I can help you with the paint however, that is my specialty. To restore the antique paint on the car what I always use and recommend is a product made by Meguiar’s called,

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #7 Show Car Glaze





This is the only product around today that was also around at the time of the Model T. Another way of saying this is, this is the only product around TODAY for early style single stage paints that was around when early single stage paints were INVENTED.

The evolution of Sealer and Reseal Glaze
The early glass bottle, (post World War II), has the original name, Sealer and Reseal Glaze. So does the "Cylinder" bottle from the 1960s. The bottle in the middle is very rare as it's a CLEAR version of the current version. Then if you look at the 4th bottle from the right - Meguair's CHANGED THE NAME. The new name and also current name is Show Car Glaze. If I remember correctly, the reason for the change is because back in the 1970s a lot of new "synthetic SEALANTS" were being introduced to the market and people new to this product that had been around for decades confused it with a SEALANT. It's NOT a sealant. It's a water-soluble non-abrasive pure polish that is rich in Meguiar's trade secret oils. Old timers, (we're talking old timers back in the 1970s), knew this product. They new what it was and what it wasn't and used it correctly. But our population was growing and new people to the "car care market" didn't know or understand what this Sealer and Reseal Glaze was or how it is supposed to be used. Some people would buy it thinking it was a "sealant" only to find out it washed off in the rain. Of course, it's WATER SOLUBLE. It's a TRUE GLAZE - not a sealant. Of course, like any educated savvy consumer - they blamed the product. So Meguiar's re-named it for what the product was historical used for and that is to create a wet looking, show car finish - thus Show Car Glaze.




The evolution of Sealer and Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze












Outside of Barry Meguiar - I'm probably the only person still living that knows and remembers this kind of stuff (and also has these very rare bottles in their collection).

I'm probably the only person that cares too.




Now let me tie this into the paint on your vintage Chopper or movie prop


Because of the age and damage to the existing paint, I would apply and massage the #7 onto, over and into the paint using a soft microfiber applicator pad. Normally you apply like you’re applying a skin lotion to dry or sunburned skin, that is gently, but thoroughly. As you massage the #7 oils over the paint you also leave a good, healthy layer of the #7 on the paint and let it soak over night. The oils will migrate into the paint and bring it back to life.

What do the oils do?

These TS Oils or trade secret oils move slowly via capillary action into the old paint and bring back or revitalize the pigments to bring out the full richness of color. This is key to restoring the “appearances” and obviously the colors of paint. But these oils do more, they also help to make the paint more flexible and more workable although from the appearance of what’s left of the paint you don’t what to “work” or abrade this paint after the #7 treatment.

My guess is, after 2, 3 maybe 4 solid applications, then wipe-off the last application and if it looks good you can stop here. As an option, you can try to apply a coat of wax but sometimes, a modern wax can dull down the results created by just the #7.

Then to maintain the paint moving forward, simply re-apply a single application of the #7 periodically. This could be once a year or twice a year, it depends on how the bike is used (exposed to the elements), and how fast or slow it oxidizes in your environment.

It's natural for single stage paint to oxidize simply by being exposed to air and moisture.


From pages 34 and 35 of my how-to book, The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine

Oxidation
Oxidation is the loss of at least one electron when two or more substances interact. When your car’s paint is exposed to oxygen and moisture, the oxygen molecules interact with the paint resin, causing free radicals to be eliminated.


Oxidation: Simple Explanation
A free radical is an organic molecule that is unstable, or lacking an even number of electrons. These free radicals attach to electrons from other molecules, in this case referring to the oxygen molecules in the air or present in moisture/water. It is this process of losing electrons that eventually causes paint to appear dull, whitish or chalky looking.

Oxidation is more common to old school single stage paints, but it can and will happen to basecoat/clearcoat finishes if the paint is neglected long enough and exposed to outdoor climates for great lengths of time.

Understanding what oxidation is and how it takes place should help to explain why you'll need and want to re-polish the original paint periodically using the #7 to stave off oxidation and maintain the clarity, gloss, shine and richness of color you're able to restore.

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....

As for restoring things like all the bright work and the engine - I can help here but I would love to see any of our forum members feel encouraged to offer their suggestions.







A lot of the work is going to be cleaning and polishing with a focus on working safe.

[Mike Phillips]

More...

When it comes to cleaning the engine area as well as wheels, forks and other brightwork, here are some TIME-PROVEN safe and effective products.


These first two products are the same products just one is aerosol and the other is pump spray.

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner Aerosol

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner






The key to using either of the above is first taping off and protecting any thing or area that shouldn't get water or chemicals in it or on it. I'm thinking air intake for the carburetors, cover and protect these areas. Anything electrical.


Then, once you have the vitals covered and protected, spray one of the above to the area you want to clean and this is KEY - agitate with this brush.

Wheel Woolies Boar’s Hair Wheel Brush







Anyone that has taken any class I've taught over the last half dozen years or ready any of my articles on this forum knows I LOVE this brush. The bristles are 2" long. They are not too stiff or too limp they are useless. They are the perfect compromise between too stiff or limp that makes them both safe and effective for cleaning and scrubbing just about anything important to you.




Here's 3 other brushes that I personally like and use that I also think would be very effective at agitating cleaners into, onto and around the various components and intricate areas to clean.





Here's the BIG PICTURE - taking this neglected Chopper from NEGLECTED to RESPECTED is going to be more about doing a GREAT job of cleaning it versus polishing it. Both aspects are important but the better you clean this motorcycle and the more thorough you clean it - everything that you do after cleaning will be faster and easier.

Cleaning is the boring part but... it's the most important aspect.

[Mike Phillips]

For the chrome wheels...

Chrome is pretty much impervious to most cleaning chemicals and the above S100 Cycle Cleaner plus the brush may be enough to get them clean.


Wheel Cleaners

There's a gel motorcycle wheel cleaner in the S100 line,

S100 Wheel Cleaner - Gel - 500ml





There are also two P21S Wheel Cleaners, which are both non-acid. There's a regular and a gel version. I think S100 and P21S are the same company. I don't know the formulas are all the same but the key information is they are ALL safe on uncoated aluminum. I think the key differences are there are liquid and gel versions and the wheel cleaners in the P21S line come in larger bottles and trigger spray hose, which could make using the product more convenient when you're sitting on you butt in front of the motor spraying and brushing, spraying and brushing, then rinsing and likely - repeating.


P21S Wheel Cleaner - Regular - 1000ml

P21S Wheel Cleaner - Gel - 1000ml

- Gel



I used S100 Wheel Cleaner once with Brian Fuller but I don't remember how dirty and neglected the wheels on his bike were? Bryan Fuller from "Two Guys Garage and I share some tips in this video...





For comparison, here's the S100 500ml bottle next the the P21S 1000ml bottle - twice as much in the larger bottle.






After you get the wheels clean, Chris West from Solution Finish shares and old biker's trick to polish the spokes. I share the tip BUT due credit where credit is due, Chris shared this technique with me.

Go the the 15:00 time stamp in this episode of Competition Ready for the tip.





Mother's Mag Wheel Polish or the SONAX Aluminum & Chrome Polish shown on Adam Corolla's 1965 Lamborghini 350GT

Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish 10 oz.

SONAX Chrome & Aluminum Paste


I'm sure you have a shoe string you can sacrifice for the Chopper's wheels.



AND

You're going to be sitting your butt on the ground to do a lot of this time-consuming, tedious work. Get one of these. Autogeek Knee N’ Back Pad


I use these cushions all the time. Either on the ground or I have one duct taped to the Speed Master Rolling Detailer's Cart.

Here's a picture of both and while it's "nice" to think that you can sit on a roll-around chair or in this case a roll-around "cart" when doing grunt work on the ground, the truth is, in most case in order to NOT stress your back and work right across from your point of view - you're going to be on your but. That is unless you have a LIFT for motorcycles.





Yeah I know, the duct tape looks tacky but it works. It keeps the cushion ON the rolling cart. No tape - it falls off and now you're wasting time fiddle faddling around with keeping the cushion on the car.

[Mike Phillips]

More...

Here's another unique tool from S100 for getting into the tight areas, which there are a LOT of this bike.


S100 Total Cycle Detail Set






You would use these when washing the bike engine area as well as after washing the bike engine area. When washing, the cotton tip will be wet with your cleaner and water and will fall apart - that's just how it goes but,

A: You get the thing scrubbed and clean.

B: You get 50 in a pack.

[Mike Phillips]

And last but not least....


FLITZ makes some really good cleaners for cleaning what is called WHITE RUST off of neglected aluminum. AND it's non-acid so it won't stain the aluminum like some all-purpose-cleaners or degreasers will.




Flitz Industrial Strength Metal PreClean

Flitz Stainless Steel & Chrome Cleaner

Flitz Instant Calcium, Rust & Lime Remover



Dissolving White Rust

Here's a set of old school aluminum mag wheels I restored. (note how many wheel lug holes?). These wheels had WHITE RUST and the FLITZ Pre-Clean simply dissolved it off WITHOUT staining the aluminum.

Old School Aluminum Slotted Mag Wheels - Extreme Makeover


BEFORE




White Rust




AFTER




Besides dissolving white rust the PreClean also cleans and dissolves all the other grime you're going to need to clean in the engine and frame areas. My guess is - you'll want to attack this project with a couple safe cleaners. One cleaner will excel at cleaning some types of gunk while another cleaner will take care of whatever the first cleaner doesn't get. A 2 prong approach. And again - the secret to success with this type of projects starts with getting everything as clean as possible.



Warning

Please take my word for it - you do not want to use ANY chemical that stains uncoated aluminum. When you do - the chemical will tend to turn the aluminum a dark grey and the ONLY way to remove the color is to remove aluminum as the staining goes INTO the aluminum.

Choose your chemicals wisely.


And if in doubt, I did send you the name to a super nice guy and GREAT detailer in your area. He's mobile and as honest as the day is long. You and the Honda would be blessed to get a helping hand from this guy.


That's all from me. If I think of anything else I'll add it.

[Mike Phillips]

Ding dang....

One more great product that you can use on your cars, truck, suvs, etc.


To restore the vinyl seat,





Get some of this.

Pinnacle Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner & Conditioner




I use this for both car interiors but more often as a one-step cleaner/conditioner/protectant for TIRES. (I also apply by machine).



Velour?

And it's hard to tell, but is that center red section velour?







If so - get this,





SONAX Upholstery & Alcantara Cleaner 250 ml

SONAX Textile and Leather Brush

[Mike Phillips]

More...


Foam vs Fiber




When working on antique single stage paint, the safest application method would be a soft foam applicator pad. If you need more bite or more cleaning or abrading ability to remove years of oxidation and staining - then a soft fiber applicator pad will still be very safe but be more aggressive than foam.


Why?


Because foam has a UNIFORM surface texture.






Fiber is just that it's thousands of individual fibers. In context, as you press and rub a fiber pad over the surface each of the tiny fibers "cuts" the paint. This is more aggrssive than the uniform surface texture offered by soft foam.







If you're trying to use the least aggressive process possible then start or test with foam. If this isn't cutting it, (pun intended), then test or use a soft microfiber applicator pad.


Make sense?



And in the context of this article; if I were trying to restore the paint on this vintage movie prop - I was start with the foam applicator pad.




I would massage on a thorough application of the #7 and let it soak for a few hours and then GENTLY wipe it off. Then inspect. If it looks better, then try a second application. If this application makes the paint look better? Then a third application.

Slowly restore the full richness of color, gloss, clarity, depth and shine.