technique video

nkme2000

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I've watched a lot of videos that demonstrate machine polishing techniques ... but they all demonstrate on large flat surface areas. Are there any videos that demonstrate techniques for tight areas and non-flat surfaces?

Thanks for helping.
 
Non-flat surfaces (curves) just require a little less pressure and "technique" that you will gain quickly if you have ever used a power tool.

If by "tight areas" you mean thin areas like A pillars, or parts of the car/truck that you question if the machine can reach, then STOP and consider a 3" polisher set up.
 
I've watched a lot of videos that demonstrate machine polishing techniques ... but they all demonstrate on large flat surface areas.

Sounds about right. It's easier to demonstrate the basics, that is the correct technique for holding and moving a polisher on a flat surface.



Are there any videos that demonstrate techniques for tight areas and non-flat surfaces?

Thanks for helping.


Yancy and I could make one. Here's the deal though, if you're using ANY brand of FREE SPINNING random orbital polisher - it's going to be "challenging" to maintain pad rotation into a convex or concave curved panle when using larger pads.

I explain why here,


The ghosting footprint and the actual footprint - Long Stroke Free Spinning Orbital Polishers


ghosting_0004.jpg






With short stroke free spinning orbital polishers and with gear-driven short stroke orbital polishers, the ghosting footprint is so small it's a non-issue. And pad stalling with short stroke polishers is a lot less of an issue than long stroke polishers.


That is, the is less of a chance that the panel you're buffing can cause pad stall as the pad (with free spinning short stroke tools), because the outer edge of the pad will have less leverage over the reciprocating components due to the smaller orbit stroke length than you get with long stroke free spinning tools.


Another way of saying this is,

When buffing with a free spinning random orbital polisher, when buffing curved panels - the OUTER EDGE of the buffing pad will have LEVERAGE over the reciprocating components and this leverage will overcome the inertia created by the counterweight and cause the pad to stall or even stop.


This is a non-issue with a gear-driven tool like gear-driven orbitals and rotary polishers.

:)
 
Also....


To avoid pad stalling you have two options.


1: Purchase different size tools so you can match the SIZE of the pad to the size of the PANEL.

This is the RUPES business model. They offer multiple tools and the idea is you purchase all the tools and then as you buff out a car you choose the tool (and thus you are choosing the pad size), according the size or thickness/thinness or curvature of the panel.

Griot's has this business model also with the collection of tool SIZES and thus backing plate and pad sizes.



2: Purchase a gear-driven orbital and be done with pad stalling no matter what the size or shape of the panel.


This is my choice, this is why you almost always see me using the BEAST for the major portion of any car detailing project. I prefer my pads to spin no matter what.



The above all said, it's like Paul says,

Non-flat surfaces (curves) just require a little less pressure and "technique"


And that's the reason I took something I "type" all the time and turned it into an article.


If you spend enough time behind any tool you can make it dance on paint -Mike Phillips


:)
 
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