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  1. #1
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    Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Hi Mike

    Hope you are well mate

    Just a quick question.

    Firstly look at these:

    Shine Mate 15mm Polisher

    – Waxit Car Care
    (This is the one I have)

    Shine Mate EX610 21mm Polisher

    – Waxit Car Care


    The one I have comes with a 6 inch backing plate. Both machines above ^ are 500W.

    Will it be any problem if I purchase a 6" backing plate to put on the machine I got?

    Cheers Mike!

  2. #2
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post

    Will it be any problem if I purchase a 6" backing plate to put on the machine I got?

    Probably not.

    In my opinion, but keep in mind I have not used this tool, I think putting a larger backing plate on a 15mm free spinning long stroke polisher will TAX the machine to maintain pad rotation.

    All you can do is try.


    Also - see my article here,

    The Air Test - Using NON RUPES pads on RUPES Polishers by Mike Phillips


    Because MaxShine tools are copies of RUPES tools, any article I write about RUPES tools will apply to MaxShine long stroke tools.




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  4. #3
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    Re: Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Before posting this message above ^^ on here, I got a reply from the Shine mate co who have confirmed what you said basically. Saying it stresses the machine.

    Sent you a PM but I thought its probably best to put it here so others can also get your helpful advice...

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    3M Trizact sandpaper here in Australia is very limited and can only be purchased as 3" or 6" sanding pads for machines. I know you said on your post to me its basically grinding if I do this.

    This now means I have to get 3M Sanding sheets from the USA which are INCREDIBLY expensive for shipping.

    For an example someone wants $152 for a single sheet of 3000 Grit 3M Trizact. No way am I gonna pay that lol.

    So I wondered if instead of using 3M Trizact if I can use any other 3000 Grit sandpaper?

    In fact, what grits sandpapers would you suggest? I do have a remaining sheet of 3000 Grit 3M Trizact from the USA. I do not have any other grits but can buy some. I just wondered how important it is it has to be trizact 3M.

    Is this guide still applicable "How To Remove Scratches" its an Autogeek guide but I don't want to post the link because of it being blocked.


    Yesterday I tried using the Meguiars Correction Compound with a Meguiars Microfiber cutting disc on the DA polisher. It has not properly got rid of the swirls. I then used the Meguiars finishing glaze polish after that on a Meguiars Foam Polishing machine pad with the DA polisher. Still not got rid of them... However they are ONLY visible in the sun light when looked at at particular angles.

    Please help advise me Mike. Bit stuck right now!

    Thanks buddy

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  5. #4
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post


    3M Trizact sandpaper here in Australia is very limited and can only be purchased as 3" or 6" sanding pads for machines. I know you said on your post to me its basically grinding if I do this.
    I don't remember saying using a 3M Trizact sanding disc is grinding?

    I tell people to NEVER try to machine sand with a ROTARY tool as this is no longer SANDING it is GRINDING.

    ???


    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post

    This now means I have to get 3M Sanding sheets from the USA which are INCREDIBLY expensive for shipping.

    For an example someone wants $152 for a single sheet of 3000 Grit 3M Trizact. No way am I gonna pay that lol.

    So I wondered if instead of using 3M Trizact if I can use any other 3000 Grit sandpaper?
    You can use what you have locally, just remember that the more expensive sanding discs and sanding papers tend to offer 2 things,

    Uniform particle placement
    Uniform particle size


    I explain all of this in my article here,


    Griots Garage BOSS Finishing Papers- Reduce Orange Peel - Review by Mike Phillips








    Also - Meguiar's offers this same brand in their line.

    Meguiars Unigrit Sand Paper


    I think we're closing out the Griot's papers? Not sure, I think I saw them on the close-out rack in the warehouse.

    Here's the deal with sanding,

    MOST PEOPLE SHOULDN'T BE DOING IT

    Why? Because factor clearcoats are THIN. See my article here.

    Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips


    I know there's a cool factor to telling everyone you can wet sand but in reality - it's primarily for CUSTOM paint jobs which are THICKER.





    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post

    In fact, what grits sandpapers would you suggest? I do have a remaining sheet of 3000 Grit 3M Trizact from the USA. I do not have any other grits but can buy some. I just wondered how important it is it has to be trizact 3M.
    See all the info I shared above. If you were going to wetsand and I'm assuming you're working on the FACTORY THIN paint - then stick with high grit levels. I'd say #2000 is dangerous for most people on factory paint. It can be used successfully but read this article.

    Wetsanding removes paint - Compounding removes paint - Polishing removes a little paint


    In my opinion, the safest way to sand factory paint to remove swirls and scratches, (not orange peel), would be to get some Mirka Abralon in #4000 grit, (as high as they go), and MACHINE sand the paint with a simple orbital polisher. The one you have could be used.

    Sanding is really an advanced skill. If this is your DAILY DRIVER - perhaps just get the paint "good" and move on?


    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post

    Is this guide still applicable "How To Remove Scratches" its an Autogeek guide but I don't want to post the link because of it being blocked.

    How to remove scratches


    That looks like one of my co-workers took information from a few different articles I've written over the years and pieced together the article you see on the above page.

    All those pictures are pictures I took from wetsanding projects I performed. The info was all generated by my brain from my experience and it's all accurate. It still doesn't make wetsanding easy or safe when working on thin factory clearcoats.

    The one picture of me holding a piece of sandpaper cut to the size of a postage stamp is from an article I wrote YEARS ago and "yes" that info is still just as accurate today as the day I wrote it.

    RIDS and Feathersanding - A Highly Specialized Technique by Mike Phillips

    (This picture and the info in my article actually dates back to 2002 on MOL)







    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post

    Yesterday I tried using the Meguiars Correction Compound with a Meguiars Microfiber cutting disc on the DA polisher. It has not properly got rid of the swirls.
    1: What speed did you run the polisher?

    2: Did you mark your backing plate or pad so you could see for sure the pad was rotating?

    3: How much downward pressure did you apply to the head of the tool?

    4: How many section passes did you make?

    5: How large of an area did you buff?



    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post

    I then used the Meguiars finishing glaze polish after that on a Meguiars Foam Polishing machine pad with the DA polisher. Still not got rid of them...
    If the compound and the fiber pad didn't work there's no way a polish and a foam pad is going to do more work.


    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post

    However they are ONLY visible in the sun light when looked at at particular angles.

    Please help advise me Mike. Bit stuck right now!

    Thanks buddy
    From the above description - it sounds like you are seeing very FINE swirls?

    Are you removing the original swirls and leaving behind new ones?


    Pictures would help.


    Mike Phillips
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  6. #5
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    Re: Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post
    Will it be any problem if I purchase a 6" backing plate to put on the machine I got?
    Keep in mind a bigger pad on that machine will make it stall more than it probably already does with the 5.5" pads so if your goal is to only use it for large, flat panels, you should be fine. If you want to use that as a single polisher to tackle every part of the car, then make sure to mark your BP to watch for pad rotation, it will stall a lot.
    Bruno Soares


  7. #6
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    Re: Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Hi there

    Thanks for the quick reply.

    Sorry about that Mike I didn't read your post you did a few days ago properly about the sanding being grinding. Now I got you. Could any sanding be done using an Air Powered Sander on 90 psi? Assisted with a soft foam interface?

    In answer to these questions:
    What speed did you run the polisher? Fastest possible which was speed 6.
    Did you mark your backing plate or pad so you could see for sure the pad was rotating? I didn't but good idea! I must try that one!
    How much downward pressure did you apply to the head of the tool? Hardly any, in fact just enough for my hand to support and guide it. How much pressure should I use for both compounding and polish?
    How many section passes did you make? About 6 passes up and down and six left to right for both compounding and polishing and 1 second per inch.
    How large of an area did you buff? It was about 15 cm by 15 cm.

    Yes it does seem that I am removing old swirls and leaving new ones behind although i have not properly analysed them all I know is that they are everywhere before and everywhere after the process.
    I have been using a little square piece of 3M Trizact 3000 Grit Foam paper keeping it moist so that would have surely removed the original scratches one would have thought? Which must mean I am making new ones possibly.

    Thanks again guys for the help there

  8. #7
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post

    Hi there

    Thanks for the quick reply.

    Sorry about that Mike I didn't read your post you did a few days ago properly about the sanding being grinding. Now I got you. Could any sanding be done using an Air Powered Sander on 90 psi? Assisted with a soft foam interface?
    Yes.



    In answer to these questions:

    1: What speed did you run the polisher? Fastest possible which was speed 6.

    2: Did you mark your backing plate or pad so you could see for sure the pad was rotating? I didn't but good idea! I must try that one!

    3: How much downward pressure did you apply to the head of the tool? Hardly any, in fact just enough for my hand to support and guide it. How much pressure should I use for both compounding and polish?

    4: How many section passes did you make? About 6 passes up and down and six left to right for both compounding and polishing and 1 second per inch.

    5: How large of an area did you buff? It was about 15 cm by 15 cm.

    [/quote]

    For numbers 2, 3, and 4

    Mark your backing plate
    Apply about 5 pounds of downward pressure BUT maintain pad rotation.
    Buff longer.


    Watch this video and specifically when I SHOW and EXPLAIN how to use a Porter Cable polisher. The SAME principals will apply to your polisher and your technique.


    How to do a Test Spot and then buff out your car! Video Explanation by Mike Phillips


    This is my opinion is one of the best videos Yancy and I have ever made together and also one of the easiest to follow, understand and then implement the techniques video on the topic.







    [QUOTE=MartyK;1675592]



    Yes it does seem that I am removing old swirls and leaving new ones behind although i have not properly analyzed them all I know is that they are everywhere before and everywhere after the process.

    You should not have defects everywhere AFTER buffing out your car.

    This is WHY you dial-in your TEST SPOT. Make sure you can make ONE SMALL SECTION OF PAINT LOOK GREAT! Before buffing out the entire car. If you cannot make ONE small section of paint STOP. Correct your process until you CAN make one small section of paint look GREAT.

    THEN buff out the rest of the car.

    Watch the video.




    Quote Originally Posted by MartyK View Post

    I have been using a little square piece of 3M Trizact 3000 Grit Foam paper keeping it moist so that would have surely removed the original scratches one would have thought? Which must mean I am making new ones possibly.

    Thanks again guys for the help there

    New scratches would be micro-marring from your buffing process, either the product, the pad, a dirty pad or all 3.


    :0
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  9. #8
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Also read this,

    DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide


    Can't stay on the forum.

    Been typing solid since 9:00am and it's now 11:00am

    I have my own car to buff out today.




    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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  11. #9
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    Re: Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Wow now thats a nice car right there! One to be proud of!

    Ok Mike I will have a look through at those videos then and I'm sure it'll give me plenty of tips. I am sticking to Meguiars products through out this process... such as the correction compound, mirror glaze polish, meguiars red foam compounding pad for the compounding and the yellow polishing pad for the mirror glaze. Seeing as the products all seem good I think it is probably my technique causing marring etc... I'm sure your videos will be of help which I shall look at tomorrow as it is 1 am here!

    Have fun on the pride n joy!

    Mart.

  12. #10
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    Re: Putting a 6" Backing Plate on a machine purchased with a 5" backing plate (Possible?)

    Hello, Mike

    Just wanted to thank you very much indeed for your help.

    Wanna give you a quick update.

    Ok so today I rinsed, washed with Meguiars car wash then rinsed then dried with a rapid dry towel.

    Applied Clay Bar with clay lube.

    Used a Lake Country Orange HDO Foam Pad with Scholls S20 compound.

    Having watched your video 3 times during the weekend I would not have been able to do this. It has helped me SO much.

    I can hardly find a single swirl now at all.

    Remaining are a couple of deep scratches which can only be seen under a light when parked at a petrol station. Little bit hesitant to do any sanding to be honest in case i damage it.

    I am happy with the results personally. Would really like to try and send you a photo but I don't have a swirl finder light.. I am going order one though when I get money. Skint at the moment due to investing in car detailing products.

    Having done all your techniques, your tips of pressure, your tips on section passes and watching your video 3 times it has made my result very satisfactory. So thanks again Mike. All the best

    Mart.

    Also how long should pads last? How do I know when they are worn out? Do they wear out so much it goes down to nothing?

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