Handheld Pump Sprayer - Capacity Needed to Cover Whole Car?

[dalemccl]

I want to use a handheld pump sprayer to apply soap solution to my SUV (planning to use CarPro Reset). I have seen the posts and videos about adding a schrader valve to the sprayer, and strapping a portable compressor to it, to eliminate the need to re-pump during application. What I am not clear about is what capacity sprayer is needed to be able to cover the entire SUV without the need to stop to refill the sprayer's container with solution.

Would something like an IK Foam Pro 2 do the job, or would I need something with higher capacity like the Foam Pro 12?

[dgage]

I’m sure the Ik Foam Pro 2+ (plus is new and has Schrader valve) would be plenty for 2 washings of a medium size vehicles. I use Reset in a Foam Pro 12 and it has lasted for probably 6 or 7 washings since first mixed. Works very well.

You may also want to look at some of the foamers with a built-in batterysoit will be all self contained.

[dalemccl]

Thanks dgage. I will look into the foamers with built-in battery.

[evo77]

For what specific purpose are you needing to foam the SUV down with Carpro Reset? Its a ph neutral soap so pre-foam is not going to breakdown grime or major soiling, but it will just loosen up the loose surface dirt before you do an actual contact wash.

Instead of an expensive IK foamer, you could instead look into a $20 foam cannon or foam gun from Harbor Freight which will do the same thing, which is to foam up the vehicle.

[dalemccl]

Evo77, I have been using a MJJC Foam Cannon Pro with a pressure washer to foam the SUV. It has been so hot here that even in the late evening, the soap dries very fast and leaves a residue (I have been using Adams Mega Foam - just got the Reset recently, but haven't used it yet but will now that the Mega Foam is used up. )

So I switched from foaming the entire vehicle to doing a couple panels at a time. But the soap still dries if I don't work fast enough. After foaming the panels, I do a contact wash then rinse with the pressure washer. I have to keep switching the pressure washer from the cannon for foaming to the 40 degree tip for rinsing. Doing that multiple times during the wash is a bit of a bother, and takes a little time. As fast as the soap dries on the car, any reduction in time would help.

I am thinking that if I foam a couple panels at a time with the pump sprayer (and not have to keep re-pumping), then contact wash, then rinse with the pressure washer 40 degree nozzle, then no change-over of connections for the pressure washer would be needed.

[dgage]

I happened to try Reset in the IK Foam 12 when I first got it and was surprised I liked it better than doing a normal bucket wash. Not trying to use it as a prewash, just as a way to put lots of cleaning lubrication on the surface while using less water. Reset from a spray foamer feels more lubricated/soapy than a standard bucket wash.

[MisterSnoop]

I have the SPTA cordless foamer/sprayer. I think I've just used it once to foam. It has a 2L capacity. It could depend on the size of the SUV and how much foam you apply as to whether or not you have to refill it. It doesn't have anything to change/adjust to alter the foam density. Here's some posts I made after using it:
What did you do today, in regards to detailing?
What did you do today, in regards to detailing?

[Coatingsarecrack]

[mention]Klasse Act [/mention] showed a vid where someone molded a mini tire inflator to do like the SPTA hand held on a full size foam 12. He seem to like it and I bought one.


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[evo77]

Evo77, I have been using a MJJC Foam Cannon Pro with a pressure washer to foam the SUV. It has been so hot here that even in the late evening, the soap dries very fast and leaves a residue (I have been using Adams Mega Foam - just got the Reset recently, but haven't used it yet but will now that the Mega Foam is used up. )

So I switched from foaming the entire vehicle to doing a couple panels at a time. But the soap still dries if I don't work fast enough. After foaming the panels, I do a contact wash then rinse with the pressure washer. I have to keep switching the pressure washer from the cannon for foaming to the 40 degree tip for rinsing. Doing that multiple times during the wash is a bit of a bother, and takes a little time. As fast as the soap dries on the car, any reduction in time would help.

I am thinking that if I foam a couple panels at a time with the pump sprayer (and not have to keep re-pumping), then contact wash, then rinse with the pressure washer 40 degree nozzle, then no change-over of connections for the pressure washer would be needed.

I know exactly what you mean. Where I'm at, we usually have a consistent breeze (I live next to Lake Michigan) and coupled with summer heat, the soap dries pretty quickly for me. But that's ok. Soap drying on paint is completely fine and safe. It *should* rinse free.

If the soap is still leaving a residue behind after rinsing its because of a few reasons:

1. Too much soap. Many people follow the "glug-glug" rule when dumping soap in a bucket. I cringe when I see people do this in YouTube videos! And more times than not people are adding way more soap than needed because they think its going to clean better or provide more lubrication. Its nonsense. Trust the manufacturer directions and follow them exactly. Because adding more soap than what the directions say means it could potentially be harder to rinse off because of the abundance of surfactants left on the paint.

2. Hard water. If your not using any water filters and your water supply has high TDS levels then those minerals in the water can effect the rinse off. Especially when your using too much soap. I currently use a dual tank water filtration system for washing. Recently, the resins in the tanks were pretty much depleted but I was trying to stretch it out as long as I could. About a month ago when I was rinsing one of our vehicles after washing and brought it back in the garage to finish drying I noticed some soap film left over in areas and water spotting on the paint. I never have issues with soap film left over so I knew at that moment that I had to refill the tanks with new resin. Since then, no more issues.

[dalemccl]

I know exactly what you mean. Where I'm at, we usually have a consistent breeze (I live next to Lake Michigan) and coupled with summer heat, the soap dries pretty quickly for me. But that's ok. Soap drying on paint is completely fine and safe. It *should* rinse free.

If the soap is still leaving a residue behind after rinsing its because of a few reasons:

1. Too much soap. Many people follow the "glug-glug" rule when dumping soap in a bucket. I cringe when I see people do this in YouTube videos! And more times than not people are adding way more soap than needed because they think its going to clean better or provide more lubrication. Its nonsense. Trust the manufacturer directions and follow them exactly. Because adding more soap than what the directions say means it could potentially be harder to rinse off because of the abundance of surfactants left on the paint.

2. Hard water. If your not using any water filters and your water supply has high TDS levels then those minerals in the water can effect the rinse off. Especially when your using too much soap. I currently use a dual tank water filtration system for washing. Recently, the resins in the tanks were pretty much depleted but I was trying to stretch it out as long as I could. About a month ago when I was rinsing one of our vehicles after washing and brought it back in the garage to finish drying I noticed some soap film left over in areas and water spotting on the paint. I never have issues with soap film left over so I knew at that moment that I had to refill the tanks with new resin. Since then, no more issues.

Thanks for the further insight. I may be guilty of using too much soap. I was using 3 ounces of Mega Foam in the foam cannon. I just now read the instructions on the bottle and it says to use 1-2 ounces. I think I got the 3 ounce idea from youtube.