Lacquer paint spots

[prin]

So I’m working on this old car which has lacquer paint.

There are these tiny spots on both of the rear fenders. It looks like overspray, but it actually the paint.

Have anyone ever ran into this? Also, could they be wet sanded out???





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[Mike Phillips]

My guess is it's Solvent Pop

Here's one of my articles on the topic,

Solvent Popping in Fresh Paint


After inspecting the brand new paint job on the 1928 Model A out in the garage I found at least one place with signs of solvent popping.

Solvent popping is when the reducer, (solvent), which is used to thin the paint to make it sprayable in a paint gun is changing from a liquid to a gas. As this change takes place, the solvent tries to escape and pops through the top film of paint leaving a tiny little crater or what looks like a pin hole.

At least that's the nutshell explanation.


Here's a couple pictures I took to show solvent popping. It is located just above the opening to the rumble seat on this Model A.









For reference, it's just above the handle you see on the top of the rumble seat in the back of the car here,






Here's the bad news - if this is in fact solvent pop you cannot fix it. Buffing more and more just uncovers more of the tunnel in the paint or the "pop" while removing perfectly good paint.

Of course, I'm not a YouTube Influencer so take anything I say or post with a grain of cyber salt.



What is the car?

[Mike Phillips]

And for what it's worth, to find my article, or ANY of my articles, I simply go to Skynet and type if a few key words and then my first and last name.

For example, here's what I typed into Skynet


solvent pop mike Phillips


The article popped right up - no pun intended.

[prin]

Thanks for the informative info Mike!! The car is a 55 Chevy. It was painted 30 years ago. I’ve made great progress with it, but didn’t know what to do about the spots. I didn’t want to get to sanding and screw something up!!


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[57Rambler]

The age of the paint confirms the likeliness of solvent pop. Years ago there was far less choice when it comes to reducers, now we have a plethora of both fast and slow reducers which allow painters to compensate for climate conditions, time, etc., all of which can contribute to solvent pop.

[prin]

Mike, so I would try too use a Denim pad, should I use compound on the pad or just the pad itself? I have bought a few of these, but I have never used them.

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, so I would try too use a Denim pad, should I use compound on the pad or just the pad itself? I have bought a few of these, but I have never used them.

Denim pads are for removing orange peel.

Being that the paint job is 30 years old I would tend to just follow your normal compound and polish regimen.

I’ve never seen solvent pop removed. It’s a hole or tunnel THROUGH the matrix of paint. Buffing more and more just removes good paint and reveals more of the tunnel/hole.

It’s NOT a defect ON the paint - it’s a defect throughout the layer of paint.

Unless your being paid crazy money and the owner will accept that trying to fix the defect may lead to getting a new paint job - I would not try to remove solvent pop.

[Mike Phillips]

Did you get my newsletter in your e-mail tonight?

If not - check your Junk Folder. Here’s one of the articles I shared in this newsletter.


When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?

[prin]

Did you get my newsletter in your e-mail tonight?

If not - check your Junk Folder. Here’s one of the articles I shared in this newsletter.


When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?

I did not get your email. What address did you send it to? I read through the "When to stop buffing" and it is VERY informative. Thanks for referring to that. I am going to just get rid of the swirls and clean the paint up. No need to screw up things! Thanks again for all of the advice!