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ShineTimeDetail
09-14-2011, 12:46 PM
The product I use will not cure until you use the lamp. Which is good because if you get some over spray on a fender then you can wipe it off. The lamps are about $200- $200 is not a lot if you can sell the restorations..

Part-timer
09-14-2011, 02:54 PM
Um...no. An LSP has minimal UV protection compared to the factory-applied UV coating, or clearcoat as shown in this thread. If you polish your headlights back to perfection and protect them with Z-CS, expect to either reapply the Z-CS say monthly, or have to polish the headlights periodically to restore them. Even Z-CS monthly isn't going to keep them from eventually degrading--think of it this way, the factory UV coating didn't last forever, and it might even have been helped by LSP's along the way.

No one has answered me yet as to what coating Barry sprayed on the Porsche lights........?

ShineTimeDetail
09-14-2011, 03:05 PM
Maybe you should pm him. Maybe he'll tell you, maybe he won't. Go to the source.

Louie_Blu
09-23-2011, 01:28 AM
I'm so glad I found this thread, don't know you Barry but I want to say thank you, this has opened my eyes and I have learned a lot,
I just recently started a Mobile Headlight Restoration Biz, and now I can advised my customers what is to be expected, all though I have read Hot Rods thread on the Spar Urethane Method some people swear by it others don't.
Since I am mobile I am going to try different methods on my own vehicles and see what works the best for me and I could offer my customers the same.
I would like to offer some type warranty, would be nice if opti-coat would work without having to polish the Lens.
Would like to know how long that sealer you used lasts and if you can let me know what did you use ? :props:

Part-timer
09-24-2011, 04:37 PM
I'm so glad I found this thread, don't know you Barry but I want to say thank you, this has opened my eyes and I have learned a lot,
I just recently started a Mobile Headlight Restoration Biz, and now I can advised my customers what is to be expected, all though I have read Hot Rods thread on the Spar Urethane Method some people swear by it others don't.
Since I am mobile I am going to try different methods on my own vehicles and see what works the best for me and I could offer my customers the same.
I would like to offer some type warranty, would be nice if opti-coat would work without having to polish the Lens.
Would like to know how long that sealer you used lasts and if you can let me know what did you use ? :props:

Me too.........:dblthumb2:

packrat
10-22-2011, 05:10 PM
Understanding Modern Headlights on Today’s Cars.
By Barry Theal of Presidential Details and Lancaster Headlight Repair, Often the littlest things on a car can make a huge difference in both safety and appearance for you and your fine automobile. Today’s modern headlights can quickly become hazed and yellow. This is a result of oxidation to the UV coating on the lens. In some cases the lens can be polished without disturbing the coating to a like new OEM finish. Others will have to have a more complicated approach to resurface and restore. In this article I will explain why this happens and what you can do to properly fix it.
Headlights use to be made of glass prior to 1980. Eventually manufacturers in the automobile industry were changing designs and needed something they could easily form to a mold. Thus they began to look into newer sleeker materials that were lighter and could contour to a more aerodynamic shape. They ended up using a material called polycarbonate or the proper name Lexan. Polycarbonate is used in many products today; ranging from sunglasses, safety glass, eye glasses, to basketball backboards. It’s a very tough durable material, virtually impact resistant as well. The weight is much lighter then glass which plays a major role in today’s modern sports cars.
While polycarbonate has many great features it also has several downsides that could cause a concern for drivers today. Polycarbonate alone is not able to hold up to environmental issues like the sun. Over time it will become very dull and faded. Next, manufacturers decided to put an Ultra Violet coating over the lens to prevent this from happening. While this was a great fix to keeping the polycarbonate from fading and dull out instantly while underneath the sun’s rays, it also has issues.
The easiest way for me to explain this coating is like clear coat on a car. Clear coats purpose was to add protection to the paint. Remember how older cars often oxidized. We have all seen those pink cars that were once red. This is the same thing that happens to the coating. It oxidizes and fades to a dull look. This robs from a vehicles’ overall finish, and also brings a very big safety concern. Over time this dull appearance will block light transfer and the headlight will not be able to produce the amazing brightness it once had.
Over the years many companies have claimed that they can restore headlights to new condition by sanding and polishing them out. This is often referred to as a “scuff and buff” fix. From first glance, the result can be amazing. However, this is not the best approach. During this process the factory installed UV coating has been removed. Once this coating is removed there is no wax or sealant that will be able to hold long lasting results once the protection has worn down. The polycarbonate lens will actually fade 3 times as fast. This usually happens with in 3-5 months of the scuff and buff fix. Over time you will constantly have to have your headlamps sanded and polish. Most places can charge in the range of $80 – 100 dollars for this. This is a complete waste of time and money for the consumer. Some may say 80 bucks isn’t all that bad twice a year. The problem isn’t within the cost itself. The concern is that polycarbonate is only so thick, repeated sanding and polishing will ruin the lens permanently. So what’s a new lens cost? Recently a customer shipped me some lenses and he said that a new headlamp assembly was $1200.00 for one lens!
In order to restore the lens back to its OEM standards a new UV coating must be re-applied. There are several companies who can provide the coating. I will leave out all company names so no promotional advertisements are provided. During the part of this article I would like to show how to properly apply the coating and the steps involved.
In the below picture you can see how these lights had seen better days. Take notice this is an extreme case. These lights hardly had any transparency at all. It was difficult to see the bulb on the inside. Here is how they looked prior to repair.
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0402.jpg
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0400.jpg
First thing you want to do is to clean the entire lens. For this I used all purpose cleaner to remove any dirt and debris from the lens and the housing.
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0408.jpg
Next, It was important to mask everywhere. I covered all the rubber edge moldings. This ensure no coating overspray and also prevents the housing from being nipped with the sander.
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0412.jpg
The following step I used a sanding lubricant that is designed for polycarbonate cleansing. It foams nicely and allows for a very smooth surface.
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0413.jpg
Once sprayed I began to sand the entire area first with 400 grit, then 600, then 800 and worked my way up the ladder to 1500 grit as a final sanding. Keep in mind just like paint some headlamps have a harder UV factory coating. Porsche has a very severe hard shell. It takes a lot to get the entire coating off. In most cases I have found that 800 grit is a great start.
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0415.jpg
Once both lenses were finished sanded to 1500 grit, everything got masked and taped prior to applying, the new coating.
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0420.jpg
Next we mixed our new UV coating catalyst into our spray gun and began to apply the coating.
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0428.jpg
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0430.jpg
All finished up after the curing process.
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0431.jpg
Finally, I got them all put back together and placed them on the table to be sent back to the owner.
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/headlight%20article/DSC_0440.jpg
Using this unique new system, I am now able to provide a long lasting result that I can provide with a 3 year warranty for protection.
In conclusion, from my finding this is the only proper way to restore a head lamp housing is to reapply the coating. I tried to make this article informative for both the detailer and the consumer. If you have any questions please contact me personally.
Barry E. Theal

Barry
those look great I'm looking to get into the the headlight restoration business how can I learn ho to do it right like this
thanks

packrat
10-25-2011, 09:03 AM
so where do you get the UV coating at?

pedro_paydro
11-30-2012, 10:23 PM
so how come this opticoat can be wiped on and reg auto clear cant?!?! whats the diff lol. cant u just add extra UV like chemical to ur clear and make it last longer? also diff clear like poly urethane are far better than reg urethane.

Qusai
12-01-2012, 02:22 PM
Im sorry if you guys already mentioned in between pages 2-7. Is it possible to seal headlamps after sanding and buffing to keep it looking new? If not then I would really like to know because I know nothing about this subject. Thank you

pedro_paydro
12-01-2012, 02:27 PM
no need to sand headlights if u r buff them unless thay are super oxidized like yellow yellow. and well u could add some kind of sealer but polishing the headlights already is the protection layer all u r doing is helping it a little.if u are actually wanting to spend the money on it, buff them like u would to clear them up and add opti-coat. OR clear coat them. but if you r clear coating them DONT buff before, the clear need something to bit onto after sanding them.

Setec Astronomy
12-01-2012, 02:31 PM
Im sorry if you guys already mentioned in between pages 2-7. Is it possible to seal headlamps after sanding and buffing to keep it looking new? If not then I would really like to know because I know nothing about this subject. Thank you

Yes the is the "spar urethane" method which uses consumer-available wood coatings for a permanent repair (depending on your definition of "permanent"). Some of us have used Opti-Coat 2.0 which works but appears to lack enough UV inhibitors to make it permanent; however, Optimum is poised to release a specific headlight product called Opti-Lens which will be available to professionals and is said to be a permanent solution. Rumor has it that a consumer version of this will also be available which may have less longevity. And lastly, you can use professional headlight coating products as noted in this thread, which may require professional spray equipment, UV curing lights, and may not be available for purchase through retail channels.

pedro_paydro
12-03-2012, 09:20 PM
what is the clear you used on those headlights? seems like a ready mix of some sort..please share your secret ;D