Understanding headlamp repair

[Lasthope05]

^^ Excellent post.

I like using SEM 1k HS clear as it is a fast drying clear with high film build ,like 2k system, requiring less coats. I get it at my local bodyshop supplier.

[Sunshyne]

alright! found it on amazon for $14 for the 1k. I learned a lot, thanks for answering gents.

[rwright]

Anyone not doing headlight reconditioning this way is doing it wrong!!! The only alternative to finishing this way would be to polish to completition and then coat the lens with something like Opti-Coat. The days of buffing and waxing lights should be over to anyone wishing to do it right. Great info Barry!

I suspect there will be a surge in Opti-Coat 2.0 sales. I just hope that people realize it is a permanent coating and that all sand scratches/marks should be removed prior to coating, otherwise their restored lights will have locked in defects. Opti-Coat will not fill these like clear coat does - according to Optimum.

[sohail99]

^Damn right!!

I'll be getting some opti-coat for the headlights for my dad's car!

I had sanded and restored them but now I have to seal them like every week or so to protect them from hazing again.

Btw really great article Barry. :xyxthumbs:

Since I don't have any spray equipment, I'd have to do with opti-coat or similar coatings.

[Setec Astronomy]

Since I don't have any spray equipment, I'd have to do with opti-coat or similar coatings.

I believe the 1K and even the 2K clears mentioned above come in an aerosol can.

[sohail99]

I have a aerosol can of automotive 'Acrylic laquer'. I never tried it on plastics though!

btw after spraying clear, is there a need to sand, refinish to flatten out the clear?

[Setec Astronomy]

I have a aerosol can of automotive 'Acrylic laquer'. I never tried it on plastics though!

I'd be careful with that...I did a wheel repair and finished it with some clear "high performance wheel coating" which proceeded to yellow over time. If I had known at the time I could get the 2K in a can I would have done it. Just use a proper respirator if you're going to spray the 2K.

[SeaJay's]

Nice info Barry, thanks for the write up. Also, thanks for all the follow up posts. Answered all my questions that I had.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

You can get 1K clear at most auto parts stores, as well as both 1K and 2K clears from any local PBE distributor. One of my favorite clears is sold under the brand "SprayMAX." I pick it up at Finishmaster locally.
Charlie,

Is this the same thing?

Amazon.com: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/tech-data/B0043B7UQY)

[LegacyGT]

This is awesome information, subscribed:)

[Gurge]

great info

for the guys already using the 1k & 2k clear coats, whats the cure time? as in when can the car be driven. some of the descriptions on these products say 12 hour cure time

also, any 'wipe on' alternative to the aerosol? (opti coat i guess is an option) I work outside pretty often and with the wind on some days I wouldn't dare spray any paint

[93fox]

Excellent thread Barry. Now people can finally see a true headlight restoration and not just sanding, buffing, and applying furniture clear on it. I've been preaching and doing it this way for a while now only with sanding up to 800gt and using a 1k clear vs a 2k.

People dont understand that you need a rough sanded surface, not a smooth polished one, for the clearcoat to adhere properly.

You are right about saying this is the correct way of doing it. Clearing them will last a really long time, i know this since i smoke out headlights and tailights this way too. But you have to understand that not everyone out there is willing to pay for a job
Done correctly this way. And thats when the "furniture clear" comes in. If they are willing to pay for something cheaper then you can use the uv sealent trick. Remeber, you get what you pay for.

[rwright]

You are right about saying this is the correct way of doing it. Clearing them will last a really long time, i know this since i smoke out headlights and tailights this way too. But you have to understand that not everyone out there is willing to pay for a job
Done correctly this way. And thats when the "furniture clear" comes in. If they are willing to pay for something cheaper then you can use the uv sealent trick. Remeber, you get what you pay for.

Are you offering a warranty with your furniture clear? Do you know how long the furniture clear lasts? I'm curious.


On a side note, looks like we have a new test to run - furniture clear, UV coating, Opti-Coat. Who wants to be the one? Im the MAN

[Lasthope05]

great info

for the guys already using the 1k & 2k clear coats, whats the cure time? as in when can the car be driven. some of the descriptions on these products say 12 hour cure time

also, any 'wipe on' alternative to the aerosol? (opti coat i guess is an option) I work outside pretty often and with the wind on some days I wouldn't dare spray any paint

The one I use (SEM 1k HS Clear) is dry to the touch and can be handled in 1 hour. I also place the halogens next to the headlights to make it dry slightly faster but dont try to force dry it as you will get fish eyes and bubbles in the paint. Full cure time would be about 12-24 hours just like sealants. It needs time to fully out gas.


You are right about saying this is the correct way of doing it. Clearing them will last a really long time, i know this since i smoke out headlights and tailights this way too. But you have to understand that not everyone out there is willing to pay for a job
Done correctly this way. And thats when the "furniture clear" comes in. If they are willing to pay for something cheaper then you can use the uv sealent trick. Remeber, you get what you pay for.

I have never used the furniture clear technique so I wouldnt be comfortable with doing it for customers. Im sure it might work fine for a while but coming from an auto body repair background, applying a clear to a smooth polished surface doesnt sit well with me.

[rwright]

Im sure it might work fine for a while but coming from an auto body repair background, applying a clear to a smooth polished surface doesnt sit well with me.

I see where you are coming from but I have to ask - what is your stance on Opti-Coat?

Barry, I have no intentions of hijacking this thread. Like I said before, this is excellent information that I'm certain someone will put to use.