New Opti-Coat Hyper Seal

[CleanIT]

Lot of people out there with bad process then. Read a-lot about opti seal not lasting anywhere near 6 months.


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Quite a few people said Opti-Seal didn't even last a month for them.

[CleanIT]

Another thing is the directions on the bottle which state clearly that you can use it on a wet or dry car. You can use it as a drying aide. They don't even mention cure time. For a product priced at $50, it should perform at a top notch level.




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[evo77]

Could it have been soap residue? Maybe try cleaning with a different soap in a much higher dilution ratio. Or fully rinse again and use a soft wet microfiber and agitate/wipe the surface to remove that residue. Then rinse again.

In my experience I have found that when I use too much soap in my bucket (because I'm trying to get it feeling really lubricious in my hands) it usually clings to the surface just like that, giving the illusion that your protection has been destroyed. Gyeon Bathe did this to me. It only calls for 1 oz in 4 gallons of water but IMO it doesn't really feel super lubricious like this. So I was putting in a few extra ounces. As soon as I started doing the *correct* dilution the rinse water no longer clung to the paint. It just rinsed off like nothing was there and the paint was beading water from the protection again.

[CleanIT]

Could it have been soap residue? Maybe try cleaning with a different soap in a much higher dilution ratio. Or fully rinse again and use a soft wet microfiber and agitate/wipe the surface to remove that residue. Then rinse again.

In my experience I have found that when I use too much soap in my bucket (because I'm trying to get it feeling really lubricious in my hands) it usually clings to the surface just like that, giving the illusion that your protection has been destroyed. Gyeon Bathe did this to me. It only calls for 1 oz in 4 gallons of water but IMO it doesn't really feel super lubricious like this. So I was putting in a few extra ounces. As soon as I started doing the *correct* dilution the rinse water no longer clung to the paint. It just rinsed off like nothing was there and the paint was beading water from the protection again.

I used Gyeon Prep prior to application so the surface should have been free of any residue. I'm going to mess with it later today or tomorrow and go from there. Part of me wants to give it another shot and part of me wants to move on to what I have from prior usage - HCD/Wet Coat. I may even just go with CanCoat.

[oneheadlite]

That's wild. Based on your prep work I would think there's no reason it should perform so poorly!

I think what Evo was mentioning about soap residue was that soap from your wash (after it had been hyper sealed) was masking the performance of the hyper seal - that was my first thought as well.

But, if it's performing like that when the other products you've used recently haven't degraded so fast under the same circumstances - personally I think I'd only give it a second shot on a test panel (IE: Try it again on the roof) and switch to a known quantity for the rest of the car.

[The Guz]

I used Gyeon Prep prior to application so the surface should have been free of any residue. I'm going to mess with it later today or tomorrow and go from there. Part of me wants to give it another shot and part of me wants to move on to what I have from prior usage - HCD/Wet Coat. I may even just go with CanCoat.

Come play with the big boys and get a coating. Stop playing around with these spray sealants and move up to the fun stuff like CanCoat.

[CleanIT]

The only thing I can think of is I may have not used enough Gyeon Prep to rid the surface of residual oils etc. On the fence about trying it again. If there were more reviews of it I'd have a better indication of what to expect. My experience with Opti-Seal was poor. Some have said not to expect crazy beading from it, so maybe it isn't that hydrophobic. Based on price, product claims, having SIC and already having OPT products, I wanted to give it a shot. I was expecting it to be similar to CC.

[bcwang]

Why don’t you just test all your products on your similarly prepared hood to see. Then you’ll have a side by side to know it it can outlast your other products.

A 1 year product lasting 3 days certainly sounds like either your prepped incorrectly or you got a bad bottle.

But it is always possible some products have different curing time or surface cleanliness needed to correctly bond, so even if everything was prepped the same way, some products may fail early because they had higher requirements for a good bond. If you don’t meet those requirements, you get reduced performance.

Also, try Hyperseal on your side by side where one patch you apply as your spray and wipe dry method, and the other patch use wowa method. See if that makes any difference.

By the way, applying at 11am may not be enough time for a 12 hour cure before dew. Try your next test right at daybreak. Ideally you wait 24 hours but if you can only do 12 hours due to not having a garage, it’s better than less. Lots of products need more time to cure to obtain optimum performance whether they say it or not. Years of testing showed this to be true for lots of sealants. I did past tests where I had products I used 3 days to cure which performed better than just 24 hours.

[CleanIT]

Why don’t you just test all your products on your similarly prepared hood to see. Then you’ll have a side by side to know it it can outlast your other products.

A 1 year product lasting 3 days certainly sounds like either your prepped incorrectly or you got a bad bottle.

But it is always possible some products have different curing time or surface cleanliness needed to correctly bond, so even if everything was prepped the same way, some products may fail early because they had higher requirements for a good bond. If you don’t meet those requirements, you get reduced performance.

Also, try Hyperseal on your side by side where one patch you apply as your spray and wipe dry method, and the other patch use wowa method. See if that makes any difference.

By the way, applying at 11am may not be enough time for a 12 hour cure before dew. Try your next test right at daybreak. Ideally you wait 24 hours but if you can only do 12 hours due to not having a garage, it’s better than less. Lots of products need more time to cure to obtain optimum performance whether they say it or not. Years of testing showed this to be true for lots of sealants. I did past tests where I had products I used 3 days to cure which performed better than just 24 hours.

I haven't ruled out that it was something I did, and not the product. I'll give it a shot again.

[CleanIT]

Full polish and wipe down x2. I want to see how it does this time.


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