Menzerna 3 step process

[noorth]

You will have to figure out what polisher you will use.

I have a griots garage G15, the first generation. I love that machine but it takes sometime to get good with. Sometimes i wished i would of gotten a forced rotation but they are expensive. They both have pro's and cons.

I've tried some different pads the last 3 years - rupes, buff and shine, lake country, griots and personally i favor the SDO line from Lake country - good price, little bit more compression then some pads and i like how the machine rides so to speak the best for me. If i need anything extra i have a buff and shine uro-fiber pad.

Endless options out there. I'm a detailing baby and from what i read the detailing industry has really changed the last 10-15 years with dual action polishers, compounds and pads.

[David Puddy]

I will say that this paint is to old and single stage if I read correctly. Any attempts at correcting the paint should be dedicated to preserving what is left of it.Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze is a final step auto glaze to enhanced the gloss prior to wax application. Get a show car shine with Meguiars #7 Show Car This is what Mike Phillips showed us to use first on this type of original single stage paint. He instructed to put it on generously and let it soak in overnight in a garage. The next day apply a second coat generously on top of that and wipe off. Then follow with a good sealant. You will still have defects but you will still also have
shiny paint.

I was curious about this too. Most if not all of the second gen F-bodies I've been around had single state paint and both of my G-bodies ('84 Olds and an '88 MCSS) had single stage lacquer (although I can't remember if G-body paint type varied by assembly plant and/or color). On the other hand, all F-bodies were base/clear starting in 1982.

I don't mean to suggest the OP doesn't know his own car, I just want to be sure he knows that late '70s and '80s GM paint systems were all over the place.

BTW-I followed Mike Phillips's technique using #7 topped with carnauba wax on my Monte Carlo and it came out great. The gloss combined with preserving some of the original patina was a really good look on an older/imperfect car that was a driver and then sat in a barn for 10 years.

[dlc95]

3500 Fine Cut
2500 Medium Cut
400 Heavy Cut

Those are (were) the staples in my arsenal.

I have since switched to the Jescar line

Micro Polish (fine)
Medium Polish
Correction Compound (Heavy)

The Jescar takes the best of Menzerna and removes the "negatives" like excessive dust and weird wipe off.

Pads:
Buff and Shine Uro-Tec White (ultra finishing)
Buff and Shine Uro-Tec Yellow (medium to fine)
Buff and Shi e Uro-Fiber (Medium to heavy +)

I find that the Medium with the Uro-Fiber is a great starting point. From there, I will use the Correction Compound if needed.

[Eldorado2k]

Hey, it’s Ravishing Rude! lol

[ZeroDfx]

This is what I have typically used over the years and it has worked well for me.
I start with the PG1000 compound with a yellow/orange LC pad, followed by the FF3000 finishing polish on a white LC pad, and I top it with the Power Lock sealant which I typically apply by hand.

[dlc95]

Hey, it’s Ravishing Rude! lol

Ha!

The one and only!