Glossy (ceramic optimizing/safe) drying aid/quick detailer?

[PaulMys]

I would love to see actual proof of a coating lasting 2 years.

Topped, Spritzed, Chopped or Whipped.

[acuRAS82]

I literally just use D156. A gallon is, like, $33. Either that or I've used DG Rinseless wash mixed as Quick Detailer, but D156 does a fine job. Otherwise all the SiO2 stuff is super over-priced and doesn't really do much. I say trust your coating. If your coating alone lasts 2 years, what's the benefit to actually extending its life an additional 3 months or so? By that time it'll be so contaminated that it's ready for a re-do any way.

The consensus negative of D156 on top vs. SiO2 toppers would be a perceived reduction in beading and self cleaning. If those are OK by the owner then they should go for it.

[SWETM]

I would love to see actual proof of a coating lasting 2 years.

Topped, Spritzed, Chopped or Whipped.

Depending on what kind of prof you want. But Budgetplan excessive testing with coatings on fleet vehicals where he works. Has coatings going on for 2years. I have yet not noticed on a domestic forum where Essence and 2 layers of CQUK the old version has done less of 2 years. They will not be performing as day one and depending on the mileage and the environment you live in and maintance. It's a difference to how well they holds up. If it was a new kid on the block I may be more in doubt. But coatings have been around for longer than 2 years know. And if it would be snake oil it would be a massive speaking about it. Then if it's not for you personal preference to use a coating it's okay. As there are different ways to protect and maintain a cars paint. With so many consumer coatings that have been sold it would be a big noise if it's not living up to the longevity of them. The scratch resistant is one of the noise from those who have had to high of expectations from that part. And there is a big misstake on the marketing about coatings IMO.

[BudgetPlan1]

I would love to see actual proof of a coating lasting 2 years.

Topped, Spritzed, Chopped or Whipped.

Don't know how to prove it other than after cleaning the winter goo off of wifes winter driver, decided to skip redoing this year as the surface still looked good and was shedding water in a manner which is to my liking.

Coating was applied in October 2016 but perhaps not typical usage of vehicle as it's only traveled about 17k miles since then; just sits outside for the most part Apri thru November, short trips only December thru March.

Had fully intended to redo but after Spring cleanup just decided "Well, that's still working for me...".

FWIW, same coating on my car is nearing the end (and at the end in the typical areas) after about 21 months, 38k miles. Always garaged at night but 70 mile round trip daily commute (90% freeway). After Spring cleanup you could just tell that it's time is drawing to a close...just not working for me in all areas anymore.

[Eldorado2k]

Don't know how to prove it other than after cleaning the winter goo off of wifes winter driver, decided to skip redoing this year as the surface still looked good and was shedding water in a manner which is to my liking.

Coating was applied in October 2016 but perhaps not typical usage of vehicle as it's only traveled about 17k miles since then; just sits outside for the most part Apri thru November, short trips only December thru March.

How does that paint feel when you do a baggie test?

[TTQ B4U]

I would love to see actual proof of a coating lasting 2 years.

Topped, Spritzed, Chopped or Whipped.

Best way to tell is first-hand. I think you'll be impressed. FWIW, contaminants stick to coatings and just using a light touch with a Nano Mitt will pull them off without marring. just go much slower than you would doing a base-vehicle. Then it it with some type of coating topper and you'll see the hydrophobic property comes back pretty well.

I share this as I've had customers come back with cars that don't appear to be sheeting/beading as they were when the coating was first applied. Natural, obviously but then still a shame. 9/10 times it's due to contaminants. One never really knows though how they care for the vehicle. They could be washing it with harsh chemicals and doing damage too, thus why first-hand is best.

[BudgetPlan1]

How does that paint feel when you do a baggie test?

To be quite honest, never occurred to me to give it a try. Since the surface was still exhibiting very strong evidence of that which I seek in a coating, it is a completely inconsequential issue for me what the surface feels like when my hand is in a baggie. The surface feels smooth, glass-like and positively delightful when I run my bare fingers over it and, at the risk of being labeled a detailing heretic, I really don't care what it feels like w/ the baggie test. Kinda like the "If a tree falls in a forest and nobody is around to hear it, does it really make a sound" thing.

Others may consider that an important issue but I guess I'm just not one of them. If the car is still exhibiting the self cleaning & hydrophobic tendencies that make coatings appealing to me, what goes on at a 'microscopic' level is of little concern in my world.

As Bridget Fonda said in the movie Point of No Return, "I never did mind about the little things." and to me, this is a little thing. But then again, my 2-bucket wash only really involves one bucket and I always do the wheels last so maybe I just like to be a bit 'different' (i.e. 'lazy').

[Eldorado2k]

To be quite honest, never occurred to me to give it a try. Since the surface was still exhibiting very strong evidence of that which I seek in a coating, it is a completely inconsequential issue for me what the surface feels like when my hand is in a baggie. The surface feels smooth, glass-like and positively delightful when I run my bare fingers over it and, at the risk of being labeled a detailing heretic, I really don't care what it feels like w/ the baggie test. Kinda like the "If a tree falls in a forest and nobody is around to hear it, does it really make a sound" thing.

Others may consider that an important issue but I guess I'm just not one of them. If the car is still exhibiting the self cleaning & hydrophobic tendencies that make coatings appealing to me, what goes on at a 'microscopic' level is of little concern in my world.

As Bridget Fonda said in the movie Point of No Return, "I never did mind about the little things." and to me, this is a little thing. But then again, my 2-bucket wash only really involves one bucket and I always do the wheels last so maybe I just like to be a bit 'different' (i.e. 'lazy').

Paint can feel smooth, bead water, and seem easy to clean, but contaminants can gradually creep up and before you know it a vehicles paint is far from what it could be.

[BudgetPlan1]

Paint can feel smooth, bead water, and seem easy to clean, but contaminants can gradually creep up and before you know it a vehicles paint is far from what it could be.

I won't dispute the point as it is certainly valid but until it becomes an situation where appearance and performance become a noticeable issue, it remains irrelevant to me. Now on my daily driver where the coating is near the end of it's useful life, it's quite apparent with regards to appearance and performance and hence, is a call to action for me. As for the other car, if it ain't broke, I ain't fixing it....and fortunately I get to determine just when 'broke' is.

[acuRAS82]

If I recall, southern Cali can put a lot of contaminants on a car in short time. Here in the northeast I barely get any roughness to clay away after a year (that’s me, I’m not near an airport, train tracks, etc.). It’s easy to overlook claying if there is not a lot of contaminants causing negative performance to the paint.