Brand new truck - want to do it right

[Goonie75]

Well. Depends maybe on the sealant and other factors like wash technique... weather... drive... road stuff etc. Typically 6 months is maybe average. And it should say weather or not to get on plastics. Some you can actually use on trim and others not so much. Just use some caution...



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[Desertnate]

Great points. I always figure on a good sealant by itself will lasting six months-ish. If you top it with a spray wax or spray sealant every wash, it will last even longer.

In addition to those mentioned, Sonax Polymer Net Shield, Collinite 845, or FK1000 might be good choices as well. There are lots of good products here at almost every price point.

[SATracker]

Sealants are the answer but read the instructions. The instructions on some sealants say that the sealants need 8 hours to "cure", without any moisture on them.

[buddy01]

What are your guys thoughts on me doing this:

Wash truck, clay bar, then sealant. Or will the clay bar be a bad idea since I don’t have a DA to do any correction.

[Eldorado2k]

What are your guys thoughts on me doing this:

Wash truck, clay bar, then sealant. Or will the clay bar be a bad idea since I don’t have a DA to do any correction.

I think it’s definitely a solid plan. As far as the claybar, just make sure to use plenty of lube [too much can’t ever hurt anything, too little however can] Start off slow and easy and let the paint guide your speed. Every new area starts off slow and before you know it you’re gliding and that’s usually when it’s ready and done to move on. Do a test spot with the clay, dry it and inspect. If it doesn’t look like you’ve marred the paint [it’ll look like little cheetah marks] then you’re doing just fine. Good luck, IME clay marring is pretty rare.

[PaulMys]

I think it’s definitely a solid plan. As far as the claybar, just make sure to use plenty of lube [too much can’t ever hurt anything, too little however can] Start off slow and easy and let the paint guide your speed. Every new area starts off slow and before you know it you’re gliding and that’s usually when it’s ready and done to move on. Do a test spot with the clay, dry it and inspect. If it doesn’t look like you’ve marred the paint [it’ll look like little cheetah marks] then you’re doing just fine. Good luck, IME clay marring is pretty rare.

Exactly my plan of attack when I bought my truck (and had no DA).

Like Eldo says, lube to the point of over lubing at first if you are unsure. You'll get the hang of it after the first 1/2 panel or so.

[dlc95]

Any specific sealant you guys recommend? I am looking at getting a DA in future, just need to do more research on which one will be best for me.

I love Duragloss 111. I use a lot of Meguiar's M21 though.

[buddy01]

I’ll make sure I use more then enough lube because I am not trying to hurt the paint since I don’t have a DA to correct yet. Should I get a actual clay lube or use foam gun with soap? I plan to also take off my FX4 sticker on my bed. Seen some videos people say to just heat it up and just peel off. If there is residue left behind what’s the safest cleaner or whatever to put in residue to remove?

I’m stuck on what sealant to go with, choices:
FK1000
Duragloss 111
Jescar Powerlock+ with Collinite 845

[minirips2]

Use clay lube, and use a very fine clay like the Pinnacle. You might also consider decontaminating with CarPro IronX after first wash and dry before claying. If your truck was transported by rail, you can bet there is a bunch of rail dust on it. Also, expect your brakes to make a lot of brake dust the first thousand miles or so. Keep the wheels clean. Consider putting a sealant on them to make them easier to keep clean.
Usually, graphics adhesive comes right off with clay. tear off a small piece and make a small patty just for the adhesive. Either that, or do the adhesive last. Then chuck whatever clay has adhesive residue in it.

[Eldorado2k]

Get a large maroon bottle of Megs Quik Detailer. What clay will you be using?