CANNOT for the life of me get swirl free on BLACK! hellp!?

[smokedlights]

I only use the denibber for dirt specs in fresh paint. THe pictures of the tail light show my problem although I don't feel like it comes up completely in the pictures. I'm well aware of how long 3"pads would take in a car lol I never work on anything bigger then a tail light which is mostly pretty small and I don't buff anything but the size of a quarter or less even the 3" pads seem huge for what I'm doing which leads to more swirls. Sounds like I need to invest in a small da for just step #3? Can I continue to do compound with the rotary?

[schpenxel]

I only use the denibber for dirt specs in fresh paint. THe pictures of the tail light show my problem although I don't feel like it comes up completely in the pictures. I'm well aware of how long 3"pads would take in a car lol I never work on anything bigger then a tail light which is mostly pretty small and I don't buff anything but the size of a quarter or less even the 3" pads seem huge for what I'm doing which leads to more swirls. Sounds like I need to invest in a small da for just step #3? Can I continue to do compound with the rotary?

Yes rotary for earlier steps should be ok. Using DA for all steps works take a long long time unless you have one of the stronger and quite expensive da's

I never could get 3M's line to yield that great of results. They push it like its the only thing in the world you can buff a car with, but I've had better luck with chemical guys polishes. For some reason the paint looks so much clearer when I use CG's instead of 3M, so that may be worth a shot

[smokedlights]

Ya i will look into a DA for possible last 1-2 steps. The little rotary is from harbor freight. Money isnt really an issue for this as this is for production work and my time is far more valuable then most tools can be with the time I use it etc.. I had the whole 3m denibbing kit, I sold the buffer that it came with, maybe I should buy that one again.. (kicking myself in ass for selling it). Really in the end Im probbaly bein g far too anal. I package the smoked lights and the packaging probably puts atleast that amount of swirls in them, its almost a matter of just wanting to see/know it CAN be done (not to mention the first time they wash them)

[Detailer Daemon]

As I stated earlier follow up with a DA use something like chemical guys or meguiars
if expense is an issue. They tend to do the trick a medium polish with a 3" medium cut
pad would level what the 3M rotary is leaving behind or hairline scratches from the rotary.

[yobigd20]

As you seem to be new to this,

1) axe the rotary buffer and get DA polisher. rotary buffers can do some real good damage if you're not a pro. Aka it'll look worse than you started. A DA polisher is just as effective and it effectively removes that danger due to the nature of how the DA polisher works.

2) you're using too small of a pad (use 5" or 6")

3) try again with DA polisher and larger pad

4) if 3 doesn't work, use a stronger cutting pad (try medium)

5) if 4 doesn't work, use a stronger cutting polish.

Always try to go from less strong pad/polish first and then step up to stronger pad/polish until it works. If you go right to the strongest pad/polish you risk unnecessarily cutting way too much of the clear coat and possibly cutting it all right through to the paint.

Oh and light others stayed, keep your pads clean between each section. A pad soaked with polish is ineffective.

Disclaimer: I'm not a pro but I've been doing this to my black cars for years and have done my research.

[smokedlights]

Been buffing stuff for many many years.. I over analyze stuff, and research stuff to the max maybe it makes me sound inexperienced. My pictures should show im not THAT inexperienced, since that was previously sanded with 1500.

Ive used a DA intial compound without any luck

A rotary 3'' on a lower speed (with good compound that does the work) works great initially as I've found, and next to impossible to damage/burn clear ever.

2) If youve read my post, you would see im working on SMALL tail lights.. ONLY Im usually buffing about the size of a quarter ( dirt specs) even 3'' seems huge for what I'm doing


My only question is DA.. sander/buffer the same? I will do step 1-rotary and 2-3 with DA and see how that works out

This is one I had before but sold.. This look good to you guys?.. will buy it again. I sold it because it SUCKED for the initial compound step, but perhaps will work great for steps 2-3
3M? 3" Polisher 28363 75 mm Diameter M17 1 5 Internal | eBay

[rcmaniacbk2]

"2) If youve read my post, you would see im working on SMALL tail lights."

No where did I read that in your original post. People are trying to help you out. Good luck hope the da ends your problems.

[smokedlights]

Most people usually read through a thread, especially as small as this one before commenting on irrelevancy or insulting me. I must be a pro then since I've never done real damage using a rotary. A DA is NOT just as effective either, especially on sanding scratches, but yet im the one"new to this" lol

[rcmaniacbk2]

I read through it all. No one knew you were working on taillights until you posted a picture. We all know a DA isn't as effective at cutting sanding marks as a rotary that's why they recommended for the last step.

[smokedlights]

picture is before last guys post right? Yes we "all" know, except for the guy who said how inexperienced I am..lol

DA isnt as effective, was pointing out the other guy ...


"1) axe the rotary buffer and get DA polisher. rotary buffers can do some real good damage if you're not a pro. Aka it'll look worse than you started. A DA polisher is just as effective and it effectively removes that danger due to the nature of how the DA polisher works. "