Fresh Paint - But you can touch it...

[Mike.Phillips@Autogeek]

Fresh Paint - But you can touch it...

Heck, you can pour compounds and polishes on it and sand and buff it if you like... see this thread...

Body Shop Safe Glaze on Fresh Paint - #7 Show Car Glaze


We had fresh paint sprayed on our two demo hoods for this Sunday's class on Wetsanding, Cutting and Buffing for a Show Car Finish....

This will be about as close as most people can get to working in a body shop without actually having a job at a body shop.

When company's that offer a "Body Shop Line" of products state that their compound will remove a certain grit level of sanding marks, that is in the context of fresh paint at a body shop, not factory cured paint on the Honda sitting in the driveway.


Fresh Paint




By the time this Sunday gets here, the paint on these two hoods will be 11 days old... or 11 days new...


And of course we'll have a rental car here for Saturday's class and then use the Rental Car for Sunday's class too....


Looking forward to meeting everyone that attending this weekends class.

[john F]

I was thinking, rental car companies must love us. We bring their cars back in better shape then when we take them

[don083]

I can't wait to put some sandpaper to those freshly painted panels Sunday!!!

[AndrewBall]

i actually have a question on this topic. I am doing some touch up work on my car, it looks like i might be doing some blending. now I am familiar with the techniques for such a task but im on a time crunch (driving to the tail of the dragon in less then a week) I can sand and correct those with say 105 and 205 to blend the clear lines correct? say with in 48 hours of the clear coat being dry. as in it can be handled or sanded.

I haven't inspected the bottles for Body shop safe or anything like that yet. I dont plan to attempt to wax them, just polish the clear coat smooth if i can. I do have some #7 glaze so i might do a hand application of that as well.

I was just wondering if there is any reason i should damp sand the clear coat and buff it to remove any orange peel or other imperfections that might arise.

Thanks guys!

[Mike.Phillips@Autogeek]

Originally Posted by AndrewBall

I was just wondering if there is any reason i should damp sand the clear coat and buff it to remove any orange peel or other imperfections that might arise.

Thanks guys!

If you want to remove the orange peel and you know you have enough clear on the car to safely dampsand then go for it.

2-3 days after spray should be safe for sanding and buffing, it kind of depends upon the reducer and hardener used... and of course if it's baked or even parked in the sun to dry...

[RaskyR1]

Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

If you want to remove the orange peel and you know you have enough clear on the car to safely dampsand then go for it.

2-3 days after spray should be safe for sanding and buffing, it kind of depends upon the reducer and hardener used... and of course if it's baked or even parked in the sun to dry...

Funny side story Mike...

When I used to do high volume work all the car jockeys we did work for sent their cars to have body work done by some real poor quality shops (Cheap). 99% of the time they made the cars look worse IMO with poor color match, over spray, wavy panels, bondo dust everywhere...

For some reason though their paint was always SUPER soft....even after a good week of curing from when it was painted. This made buffing them near impossible (especially with foam pads) as the paint would melt/burn/blister very easily. In the rare occasion where the body shop actually wet sanded and buffed the car it would come to us full of these types of burn marks. The only way I could remove them was to use compound by hand...in some cases the damage could not fully be removed. Boy I don't miss those days!

I'm assuming they mixed the catalyst/hardener wrong, on top of using low quality materials, but ever since I've worked there I always do the finger nail test before buffing a repainted panel. Basically if you can sink your finger nail, or even leave a finger print mark in the paint, it's too soft to buff safely.

Now this should not be of concern with any reputable shops work, but if your dealing with a budget painter, one may want to try this test before machine buffing.


Rasky

[Mike.Phillips@Autogeek]

Originally Posted by RaskyR1

I always do the finger nail test before buffing a repainted panel.

Basically if you can sink your finger nail, or even leave a finger print mark in the paint, it's too soft to buff safely.

Now this should not be of concern with any reputable shops work, but if your dealing with a budget painter, one may want to try this test before machine buffing.


Rasky

Great tip and technique...

Thanks for adding it to this article...