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Junior Member
Hey what should I charge to detail a 28' walk around omc fishing boat?
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Super Member
Re: Need some boat detailing process advises!
I get 25 a ft on real bad boat I get 30 hr wet sanding is more. ps dont wet sand allgrip to hard . I use shela shine on alum.Just spray on clean rag and wipe on. this is the best stuff you will ever use.
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Junior Member
What would you recommend for removing black streaks of a pontoon boat that has a vinyl decal wrapped around it? Black streak remover wont do anything, every year I have to compound it off
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McKee's 37 Product Support
Re: Need some boat detailing process advises!
Originally Posted by Sfoster
What would you recommend for removing black streaks of a pontoon boat that has a vinyl decal wrapped around it? Black streak remover wont do anything, every year I have to compound it off
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The trick with black streaks is to remove them as soon as possible. Marine 31 Port to Starboard All Purpose Cleaner works exceptionally well for removing black streaks.
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Junior Member
I'll think about getting some but I have tried 4 other black streak remover with no luck at all
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Super Member
Re: Need some boat detailing process advises!
I have used 303 aerospace on my boat seats for years now. I have not seen any further fade. It seems to work really well on my vinyl bimini top as well.
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Re: Need some boat detailing process advises!
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McKee's 37 Product Support
Re: Need some boat detailing process advises!
Originally Posted by MPBGT
I have used 303 aerospace on my boat seats for years now. I have not seen any further fade. It seems to work really well on my vinyl bimini top as well.
303 Aerospace Protectant is one of the best UV protectants around.
One of the benefits of Marine 31 Vinyl Cleaner & Conditioner is that it cleans and protects, without sacrificing the UV protection provided.
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Re: Need some boat detailing process advises!
We had a guy joing AGO and post briefly to our forum, check out this thread...
Sanding aluminum trim: Wet or Dry?
Here's the pertinent portions dealing with anodized aluminum...
Originally Posted by Jim Harvey
We've been anodizing for about 15 years so we have a little experience in the field. <G>
Anodizing GROWS a layer on the surface of the piece. This is why some parts need to be made slightly undersized when the must be finish anodized (if they are a critical fit piece). threads are particularly troublesome and should not be anodized at all. Methods to prevent the thread from being affected by the anodizing process include capping, taping and plugging.
The reason that the de-anodizing process loses material is that you are actually removing the anodic coating that has been grown on the surface of the part. In this case, you will lose anywhere between 1 and 5 thousandths from the part surface depending on how long you need to "cook" the part.
There is no way to polish an anodized part after anodizing. If you want shiny AND anodized, then you polish BEFOREHAND and then proceed with the anodizing process. Anodized surfaces can be coated with a good quality wax which will afford additional protection to the surface.
Standard polishing of aluminum is done with a tumbler, buffer or by hand. There is also chemical brite dipping that uses some extremely powerful chemicals to achieve an exceptional finish prior to anodizing.
The only things that have changed in the last decade are the dyes (High UV resistance), masking materials and ability to multi-color parts. The actual process remains the same. Acid and electricity and time. the creative part has blown up in the last 5 years and there are people doing amazing work in the field.
Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek
Cool. Great to have access to an anodizing expert in the house.
Some window trim components on new cars are anodized black, (my best guess), and they fade over time and then members will post threads asking what can be done to make them dark black again and historically they don't like the answer.
My experience has mostly been with V-drive Drag Boat hardware and a few specialty decorative items. I know just enough to be dangerous.
Originally Posted by Jim Harvey
They're not going to like my answer either.
Unfortunately, when you have an anodized part that has faded from UV exposure or become mottled from a combination of UV and exposure to the elements, there isn't really anything that can be done to restore the original color. The problem is that the color has actually faded from the pores of the aluminum or the coating has failed.
Modern Dyes used in anodizing are strongly UV resistant, but the key word is 'resistant'. Kind of like a watch, you never hear watched being called "waterproof" simply because at some point even the best watch will leak. If trim has deteriorated to the point that it has lost color or is mottled, the only solution is really to replace it, powder coat it or paint it.
Moral of the story is that as soon as you get your car, protect it. AG sells enough protectant products that you shouldn't have any excuse for not finding SOMETHING that will work for you. This is also a good point to make to your customers when you're detailing their cars. It's a lot cheaper in the long run to use a good quality wax or sealant with High UV factors than to go to the dealer to replace trim.
These forums are a great resource for everyone to get the knowledge they need to keep improving their skills.
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Re: Need some boat detailing process advises!
It's pretty easy to tell if you're working on anodized aluminum or bare aluminum is to take a white cloth and a light to mild aluminum polish, you could even use a light cutting paint polish and even a cleaner/wax, then rub some onto the surface for a few seconds.
Turn the cloth over.
If you see black residue coming off then it's uncoated or bare aluminum and you're good to go to polish it.
If you don't see any black coming off then chances are very good the aluminum is anodized and tell the owner there's nothing anyone can do to restore the shine outside of having the parts de-anodized, then polished.
One thing for sure... boat detailing will keep you in shape...
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