I'm Looking for a Cheap Paint Thickness Gauge

[Eric M.]

The only measurement that really matters is the clear coat

Unless you're going to buy Defelsko that from what I've read can measure the actual clear coat I'm uncertain what the cheaper paint gauges will provide me?? Who cares if it reads 100 microns and 99 of that is the primer and base. We work within the clear coat and unless I can get a measurement of it everything else doesn't matter. Maybe I'm wrong? If so please explain.

[zmcgovern45]

Unless you're going to buy Defelsko that from what I've read can measure the actual clear coat I'm uncertain what the cheaper paint gauges will provide me?? Who cares if it reads 100 microns and 99 of that is the primer and base. We work within the clear coat and unless I can get a measurement of it everything else doesn't matter. Maybe I'm wrong? If so please explain.

You're correct... the only gauge that can read individual paint layers is an ultrasonic gauge like the Defelsko Positector B3 Advanced which retails for around $2300.

The other PTG that simply measure ferrous and non-ferrous metal substrates do not measure individual layers, but total film thickness from bare metal to the surface of the paint. Within this reading is the primer, base coat, and clear coat. So... this does not provide you with the critical info (ie clear coat thickness), but it does provide some good information to you nevertheless.

For instance, if you're taking readings on a vehicle, and the majority of the car is averaging around 120 microns (<- pretty typical readings in my experience... may range between 90-150, but a micron is an incredibly small unit of measurement, so this variance is expected from manufacturing), you then hit an area or maybe even an entire panel that is consistently reading 400+ microns. This will allow you to safely assume this panel was repaired/repainted. On the flip side, if you're taking measurements and then stumble upon a section or panel that is dangerously thin (say, sub 60 microns) you can safely assume this area was likely sanded or very heavily corrected in the past.

So what? You still don't know how much clear you have.

Well, yeah, that is very true... but you have MUCH more information than you did by just looking at the paint with your bare eyes. You now know that part of the car was repainted, so it may react differently to your correction process (or in worst case scenarios may be very fragile and more prone to damage) and you have identified areas where great caution is needed due to thin total thickness which ultimately means you likely have considerably less clear in that area.

So, to reiterate a comment I made previously in this thread, is a PTG absolutely necessary? No. It will not make or break you, however if you're a professional who is making good money correcting paint, it is a worthwhile tool to pick up. There are many options for under a few hundred dollars, which should equate to less than 1 day of work or less, so the small investment should be a no brainer for the peace of mind and potential savings by lowering your risk of damage.

If you're consistently working on high end vehicles, then in my opinion, you should absolutely invest in an ultrasonic gauge. The upfront investment is far cheaper than any potential damage to a supercar.

(on a side note - customers also really like seeing the tool. They're impressed with it and get the sense of a true high end service and know that their car is being taken care of since no one else will have this type of tool)

You've just got to arm yourself with the tools & equipment to gather information about the vehicles you are working on to make your life easier. If you don't think a PTG is needed, then don't buy one. Just like some people still use rotary polishers instead of da machines... there is no right answer, just preference.

-Zach

[gski]

Not at all true... a ptg will allow you to more accurately asses the current condition and history of the paint. For instance, even if a vehicle consistently reads thin, it is no big deal if you're doing a basic correction... however, if the paint is averaging around 110 microns, and then you hit a spot that is consistently below 60 microns, you know you should be very cautious in that area because it has clearly been worked on (likely heavy sanding or similar)... or vice versa, if a car is continuously reading around 110 microns and then you come across a panel or a spot that is significantly higher, you can assume it was repaired/repainted.

The more info you can get about a car before you work on it the better, so IMO, a paint gauge is a must have for a professional. Is it something that will make or break you? No... but if you're making good money correcting paint, it is a tool that is worth having.

I did a review on an inexpensive gauge a while ago... I used it for a couple years and it did just fine, though I have upgraded to a higher end brand since then.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-everyone.html

Just my thoughts

I bought this PTG based off your review and I don't regret it. It came in very handy during my first ever correction. I had a door that I was having a tough time correcting using the same process used on the rest of the truck (paint was harder). Using the PTG I was determined that door had been repainted and paint coat was much thicker. After that, I was comfortable moving to a more aggressive approach on that door and it finished out great like rest of the vehicle.

[davey g-force]

[quote=2black1s;1273053]

If, as you say a hack, took off a lot of clear with a wool pad and rotary you should be able to see that in the paint finish. The texture of the paint would be different in the "hacked" areas. Same goes for repainted panels. In the vast majority of cases the texture of the repainted panel will not match the texture of the factory original panels. This is where the common sense comes into play... If you see variations in the paint finish then you need to assess the probable cause and proceed accordingly.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not by any means saying that a paint thickness gauge is useless, I'm just saying that it's not absolutely necessary. There are other indicators and that's what a paint thickness gauge is - an indicator.

Like many instruments, the PTG can offer guidance and insight, but ultimately experience and common sense will be the deciding factor.

Both great points, thanks for that.

As a hobbyist (plus the odd external job here & there), based on your comments, I think a PTG is a "nice to have" but not an absolute necessity.

I will probably invest in one down the track..

[Candy Apple]

I recently ordered a BSIDE CCT01 PTG. It was a tough choice between it and the venerable CM8801FN, but I went with the CCT01 because it's cheaper and more feature packed (statistics and USB connectivity). The accuracy and precision specifications for both units appear to be identical, which leads me to believe they likely use the same sensors.

I haven't seen anything here about the CCT01. Has anyone tried it?

[craigdt]

I recently ordered a BSIDE CCT01 PTG. It was a tough choice between it and the venerable CM8801FN, but I went with the CCT01 because it's cheaper and more feature packed (statistics and USB connectivity). The accuracy and precision specifications for both units appear to be identical, which leads me to believe they likely use the same sensors.

I haven't seen anything here about the CCT01. Has anyone tried it?

Just following up on this post to see if you could give us some feedback on this unit.

[Jomax]

^^^x2

[addysdaddy]

I recently ordered a BSIDE CCT01 PTG. It was a tough choice between it and the venerable CM8801FN, but I went with the CCT01 because it's cheaper and more feature packed (statistics and USB connectivity). The accuracy and precision specifications for both units appear to be identical, which leads me to believe they likely use the same sensors.

I haven't seen anything here about the CCT01. Has anyone tried it?

Like the OP, I'm very curious to hear your opinion regarding this unit. Please update when convenient.

[hdez]

I recently ordered a BSIDE CCT01 PTG. It was a tough choice between it and the venerable CM8801FN, but I went with the CCT01 because it's cheaper and more feature packed (statistics and USB connectivity). The accuracy and precision specifications for both units appear to be identical, which leads me to believe they likely use the same sensors.

I haven't seen anything here about the CCT01. Has anyone tried it?

Hey, how is it going with the BSIDE CCT01? Do you think is worth it?