Burn Through repair advice needed, Please.

**Tomeh** · 11-05-2012, 10:52 PM

I have a 2004 Toyota 4Runner and decided to take on repairing thirteen rock chips in my hood prior to the vehicle having to spend its first winter outside in a northern environment. Seven of them disappeared so that I can't spot them anymore, three of them were not perfect, but acceptable and the other three are what bring me here.

I burned through in a couple of spots and have attached photos of the two worst problems. I was using 2000 grit sand paper and hand sanding and going very slow. It felt like the worst spot appeared suddenly, as it seemed it was not there on one pass and was there on the next. The other spots do not have any primer showing and are smaller. I only noticed them after I had used rubbing compound on the area to remove the sanding marks.

I have already learned several hard lessons from this that I certainly won't forget, but now trying to figure out next steps. If I don't want to have the hood completely repainted which I know would be the best option, what are my other options for repairing these spots? Is it possible to create a "chip" or "scratch" to repair so there are hard edges to fill to? Can I scuff the area and touch up? What tools would be best? Air sprayer? Rattle can?

Any and all help would be appreciated both in options and techniques!!

Thanks!!

**rmagnus** · 11-06-2012, 01:30 AM

This is the reason getting a cheap panel from a junk yard makes for perfect practice.

Okay this is more than a burn through your at the primer next is metal. This means a spot repair will be very difficult to do. Yes you are going to need proper paint tools to even get something looking respectable. A lot also depends where on the hood it's located. Yes a complete panel respray is the best solution but scuffing blending base coat then clear is possible and will be an improvement. It would be best to find a mentor to help demonstrate the process. If that doesn't work make google your next best friend and do a lot of research. YouTube has some good educational stuff on blending color coat and clear.

**wrx495** · 11-06-2012, 01:43 AM

did you use a polisher or just sanding?? this makes me not want to even use the DA i just got =\

**cleanmycorolla** · 11-06-2012, 02:19 AM

Originally Posted by wrx495

did you use a polisher or just sanding?? this makes me not want to even use the DA i just got =

Thats the last thing you should worry about IMO. Focus on technique, it'd take a hell of a lot to burn through the pain with a DA! I was nervous about it one time too, then you do it and you wonder why you made it so tough in your own head!

**Tomeh** · 11-06-2012, 02:19 AM

Originally Posted by rmagnus

This is the reason getting a cheap panel from a junk yard makes for perfect practice.

Okay this is more than a burn through your at the primer next is metal. This means a spot repair will be very difficult to do. Yes you are going to need proper paint tools to even get something looking respectable. A lot also depends where on the hood it's located. Yes a complete panel respray is the best solution but scuffing blending base coat then clear is possible and will be an improvement. It would be best to find a mentor to help demonstrate the process. If that doesn't work make google your next best friend and do a lot of research. YouTube has some good educational stuff on blending color coat and clear.

Thanks so much for the response, I think my biggest mistake was having the first several go really well and giving me a sense of confidence that I probably shouldn't have had.

I have attached a wider angle photo to give a better view on where it is located. It is such a small place, but because it is through to the primer, it really pops.

Thanks again for the help!

**Tomeh** · 11-06-2012, 02:23 AM

Originally Posted by wrx495

did you use a polisher or just sanding?? this makes me not want to even use the DA i just got =

I compounded, polished, and waxed the entire vehicle by hand and that turned out great.

This was done with sandpaper while working on chips after that.

I don't think you have much to worry about if you are just polishing with a DA though.

**wrx495** · 11-06-2012, 02:26 AM

Originally Posted by cleanmycorolla

Thats the last thing you should worry about IMO. Focus on technique, it'd take a hell of a lot to burn through the paint with a DA! I was nervous about it one time too, then you do it and you wonder why you made it so tough in your own head!

Alright then I will definitely be focusing on technique I'm guessing I would need to put it on speed 6 and hold it there for like an hour .. But just the thought of clear being 2 mils and a stick note being 3 mils and it being that thin .. But I guess just light polishig doesn't take out anything noticeable

**wrx495** · 11-06-2012, 02:29 AM

Originally Posted by Tomeh

I compounded, polished, and waxed the entire vehicle by hand and that turned out great.

This was done with sandpaper while working on chips after that.

I don't think you have much to worry about if you are just polishing with a DA though.

I won't compound but I'll polish with megs ultimate polish and adjust the pad to the lightest needed and then seal and wax but definitely not using any sandpaper

**BobbyG** · 11-06-2012, 06:57 AM

Sanding or wet sanding the effected area as you did is actually the correct way to repair chips and nicks IF your plan was to refinish the area.

Generally, chips are very small but to repair them correctly requires wet sanding and "feather edging" the area out as much as 1 1/2 to 2 inches so no difference in paint thickness is detectable.

Feather Edging

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB4wXeliKCI&feature=related]Feather Sanding auto paint - YouTube[/video]

Since you've sanded through to remove and repair a paint defect, I suggest you do the same to any others as this panel needs to be repainted.