My Method with Megs #105

[C. Charles Hahn]

Anyone have more info on this?

Jim

Any statement made by anyone regarding any new products from Meguiar's is purely baseless speculation at this time. Only an official announcement from someone at Meguiar's should be given any credence.

SEMA doesn't start until November 2nd; in the meantime we know nothing other than what we are hoping to see released.

[314wolf]

What do you mean by "Flashing"?

[314wolf]

I have some 105 on it's way, after reading about it, I'm thinking of maybe going in a different direction. Any thoughts? Thanks

[Kevin Brown]

What do you mean by "Flashing"?

It means that the lubricating agents used in M105 "evaporate" quickly.

This does NOT happen as rapidly as people think.
Instead, the abrasive particles used in M105 ATTACH to the buffing pad readily, so the assumption is that the particles have "broken down" or that the lubrication is GONE.

Nopers, not usually the case.

For the guys that choose NOT to PRIME the pad prior to using buffing liquids, they are more susceptible to having the liquid ingredients soak into the foam or wool- effectively removing their ability to control dusting, to lubricate the surface, and to keep the abrasives rolling freely about.

When you PRIME the pad using the M105 (or any buffing liquid containing abrasive particles for that matter), this one little detail does SO many things to improve performance. Here are three of the MOST important.

1. By priming the pad using M105, you are effectively increasing the surface area of the pad that is in contact with the paint.
Since the foam material is porous, by filling in the pores, you are creating a bridge that allows additional abrasive to set upon. Best guess and depending on the pad material, you may be gaining an additional 30% to over 100% increase in usable surface area!

2. By priming the pad using M105, you are creating a "hard barrier", effectively slowing the absorption of the liquid ingredients of the compound.
Never forget- abrasive particles are HARD. The abrasives used in M105 are aluminum oxide... are teen-tiny (a very technical term)... and rather refined, so they pack tightly against each other. When this occurs inside a pore of a foam buffing pad, it can block the tunnel-like structure of the pad, creating what amounts to a dam that slows the absorption of liquid and abrasives through the individual pores.

Not only does this keep the ratio of liquid versus particles at their optimum performance level, it extends the buffing cycle.

In addition, it minimizes the potential for pad saturation. As many of us have experienced, once saturation occurs, the pad loses cutting power, it gets heavy, and the machine feels as if it is a bit out of balance.

3. By priming the pad using M105, you are keeping the accumulated mass at the face of the pad.
This allows the pad to work as intended by keeping its purposely designed cushioning free of excess buffing liquid throughout the pad.

Open cell pads allow air to travel through them rather easily, whereas closed cell pads do not. Of course, air is able to move through a closed cell pad, but at a much slower rate.

When the air tunnels (pore and tunnel structure) are clear, air can travel freely between these tunnels. This means that the pad can compress, rebound, and twist as it was designed. Fill the pore structure full of abrasive or liquid, and guess what? Everything changes! Air does not flow as easily, so compression and rebound slows. The pad gets hot and stays hot, because the buffing liquid is drastically impedes air flow, and also HOLDS the heat inside the pad.

Crazy stuff. Perhaps too technical of an answer, but it is accurate and it is WHY "flashing" doesn't raise its evil head when you PRIME the PAD.
I could go on, but most folks will probably not even make to this line!

[Old Tiger]

I have some 105 on it's way, after reading about it, I'm thinking of maybe going in a different direction. Any thoughts? Thanks

The Optimum sprays Mike referenced are the new State of the Art IMO; FWIW I gave my M105/205 away to a pro friend after using new Optimum sprays. Rumors have it they are developing a finishing and an AIO spray too. Just my $.02 FWIW.

[IID]

The Optimum sprays Mike referenced are the new State of the Art IMO; FWIW I gave my M105/205 away to a pro friend after using new Optimum sprays. Rumors have it they are developing a finishing and an AIO spray too. Just my $.02 FWIW.

I just purchased the OID,ONR,OHC,OHS,OCW,OOS8,OPC and OTS yesterday.I super excited to try these.

We'll see what November brings with other new Optimum products

[Kevin Brown]

And I think the " Buzz" will be about the " New and Improved" M105 after the SEMA show this fall.

This rumor is NOT TRUE.

The "change" occurred last year.
When Meguiar's updated M105 to be D/A compatible, that was the "new and improved formula".

Since I don't work for Meguiar's, I asked Jason Rose (just ten minutes ago) if there was another "update" to M105.

He said, "What?! No- where did that come from?"

"The forums."

Jason replied, "Please mention that I said that there is NO NEW FORMULA for 2010."

So there you have it. I liked the original formula myself. The new version is fantastic, too.

[314wolf]

Thank you KB! I should be receiving my Megs #105 & #205 on Tuesday along with some LC pads. I'm really looking forward to giving this a try.

[lpj8]

When you say that you prime the pad, are you just 4-5 dots of M105 on the pad? or is it something different?

[Kevin Brown]

When you say that you prime the pad, are you just 4-5 dots of M105 on the pad? or is it something different?

Since Autogeek is a Meguiar's distributor, I don't know if it's breaking the forum rules to link to their site.

Instead, I'll just copy and paste a post from over there! Here you go:


Original thread by PorscheGuy997
A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

Hey everyone,
I thought I would give you guys a little sample of Kevin's paper. One of the most important topics covered is pad priming. Although it may seem simple, I wanted to clear up some confusion.

When I refer to pad priming, I am referring to the liquid that will be used in polishing - not a spray detailer.

M105, M205, M86, D151, SwirlX, ScratchX 2.0, and Ultimate Compound use abrasives that are uniform and non-diminishing (SMAT). That means that they are very different than most products that use abrasives that break down. These products that use non-diminishing abrasives rely heavily on the lubricant. If there is too much lubricant, then the cut will be reduced because the abrasive is floating in lubricant. If there is too little lubricant, then the product will "flash" very quickly and you will need to reapply product.

The best way to utilize the products listed above (non-diminishing or SMAT) is to prime the pad. To do so, take the product and pour some on the pad. Then, rub it in. You are not trying to spread butter on toast! Aggressively rub the product into the pad until the entire surface is covered.

To show the method, I chose M205 and a W9207 finishing pad.



Below is an example of a poorly primed pad. As you can see, the product has completely filled in each of the pores. This will waste product and reduce the cut.



Here is what a properly primed pad should look like. The pores are not filled with product, but there is still product available in the pores.



To give you a better idea of what the pores look like, I took a macro shot of the above pad properly primed with M205.




Hope that helps!