New 2016 3500 Ram, need some direction

[Cabrio]

Welcome and congratulations on the new truck!

As Pilotpp mentions, the two bucket system is probably one of the most important techniques you can use - don't forget to use grit guards. You could also look to get a foam gun and I agree that you should take this opportunity to clay to your truck. Since your truck is new, now would also be a great opportunity to use a coating without having to do any paint correction. Having the coating with really make your truck shine while also helping to protect it from swirls and scratches.

New truck + claying + coating + two bucket system/foam gun...that could be like a marine in a avatar body...a potent combination - lol.

[Buster906]

I see much referral to clay bars, in my opinion their time is passed. I prefer the Nanoskin 6 in round mitt. For me, this does a better job with a clay luber and covers more area

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

Pinnacle Black Label Leather & Vinyl Coating

This stuff is the bees-knees for coated leather. Don't waste your time on conditioners for coated leather, a protectant is where it's at.

[AbileneAutoWerx]

First thing to do is delete all the EPA crap with EFILive so it'll run right and last the way a Cummins should! 😉

[MattPersman]

First thing to do is delete all the EPA crap with EFILive so it'll run right and last the way a Cummins should!

Sure throw away the warranty on a new 70 grand truck


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[Hermes1]

Congrats on the truck purchase. I have a 2015 Bighorn 3500, CC, DRW, 8' bed Cummins & AISIN and love it. Shortly after purchasing mine I did a complete wash, Nanoskin, light polish and finished with CQuartz UK coating. Because of the amount of real estate on these trucks I wanted to minimize the frequency of protection, so I chose to go with a coating and it is holding up very well.

[AbileneAutoWerx]

Sure throw away the warranty on a new 70 grand truck


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I guess we're spoiled here in Texas. Most dealers are mod friendly if you bring them back in stock. I've deleted every emissions equipt diesel I've owned and never had any problems. Before they were deleted I dealt with constant regen from clogged DPF's and drinking UREA like it was leaking out the bottom of the tank. I'm talking 6.4 Fords and 6.7 Fords,Ram's and LML D-Max's. Look at the EGR valve on a 6.7 Cummins after 1,000 miles and you'll see why they have problems the 5.9 didn't. All the soot that gets recirculated through that engine is awful!

[cardaddy]

First.. to AGO!

Sounds like a *beast* of a new Cummin's ya' got there... rollin' coal.

First things first....

• As others have said, get used to a 2BM (2 bucket method). Get grit guards for both. In fact... you'll need a third bucket for your wheels.
• Daytona brushes, and/or Wheel Woolies are a must have.
• IRON-X is a MUST on a new vehicle that has been shipped via train and truck.
• Wash, then rinse, then IRON-X, then rinse again.
• Nanoskin pad in fine for your GG6, break it in on the windshield and side glass BEFORE you put it on paint. You can also get the Nanoskin hand held sponges in both medium and fine to use everywhere your pad and DA can't reach.
• NOW... you use your Nanoskin, with just a splash of CLEAN lightly soapy water.
• Pads for your GG6. And I mean AT LEAST a dozen pads. Your RAM has fairly hard paint, so you'll probably be safe with orange and white Lake Country flat, or Lake Country CCS pads. (As already mentioned, get a 5" backing plate and 5½" pads.)
• Get 6 of each, orange, and white.
• If you want a softer/less cut/more of a finishing pad... either blue or black, 4 should work as long as you go FIFO when using them.

Now when it comes to compounds and polishes.... you have a TON of choices, but keep in mind that if it's SMAT (Meguiar's) you'll be working less with each primed pad (4~7 passes) *or* if it's DAT (Everyone else, mainly Menzerna, Wolfgang, etc.) you'll need to work each pad all the way through the cycle (often 8~10 passes at least).

Could be that FG400 would be perfect, because it'll cut nice that first couple of passes, then finish down (on that hard paint) as good as you'll likely need it to be. One trick with FG400 is to prime two pads, one cutting pad (orange) then another lighter cut pad (white or blue) and work both pads on your test spot for the full cycle (8~10 passes). Then clean both pads "on the fly" and sit the finishing pad to the side. Now, go back and put 4~5 drops of product on your pad and work your section only HALF WAY through the full cycle, then take your finishing pad and put it on the machine and finish the cycle. Takes a bit of practice, but can end up with stellar results.

First time though... I'd just work all your sections completely through with your choice of either orange or white pad. (Depending on what your test spot told you before you started doing the entire vehicle.

As for sealing the paint up, providing long lasting protection. I'd say I'd fall into the coating group for a daily driver as coatings last MUCH longer, and most can be topped with a decent sealant (or spray sealant/wax) along the way. Stay away from the Blackfire coating as a first timer because it has a much harder learning curve. That being said, Cquartz, Pinnacle Black Label, DP, Wolfgang Uber, Optimum Gloss Coat, Duragloss Enviroshield.... are all pretty much idiot proof, and will give you tons of gloss and shine.

[Witchdoc]

Sure throw away the warranty on a new 70 grand truck


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I did EFIlive program as well as cold air intake and 5 inch exhaust on my new 2016 single axle 3500HD. You still have your warranty unless they can prove what is wrong with it is due to the mods done to the truck.

[AbileneAutoWerx]

I did EFIlive program as well as cold air intake and 5 inch exhaust on my new 2016 single axle 3500HD. You still have your warranty unless they can prove what is wrong with it is due to the mods done to the truck.

That's right! The Magnuson Act. Not sure I spelled it right.