Critique my plan of attack, please!

[Mike Honcho]

My daily driver. Outside pretty much 24/7. 2011 Lexus Matador Red Mica

Okay...here goes...

1. Wash

2. Clay

3. FG400

4. SF4000

5. D114 (15:1 as a panel wipe to get residue/oils off paint.)

6. Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer

7. WGDGPS 3.0

8. 6-pack Goose Island Honkers Ale

Please add/subtract as you see fit. (Except for the beer.)

I'm kinda foggy about steps 5 & 6. I'm thinking both aren't needed?

Thanks!

[hoyt66]

I would throw a decontamination (iron x) between #1 & #2 and leave out #5. Also do a test spot to see exactly whats needed as far as correcting the paint. Good luck

[Mike Honcho]

About how much IronX would I need?

[mwoolfso]

16 oz is more than enough. You can conserve/optimize how much you use by spraying across the panel, waiting 15 seconds and then spreading with a microfiber sponge, then waiting a bit more. If you see any heavy spotting or if the panel is drying too fast you can spray some more.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

My daily driver. Outside pretty much 24/7. 2011 Lexus Matador Red Mica

Okay...here goes...

1. Wash

2. Clay

3. FG400

4. SF4000

5. D114 (15:1 as a panel wipe to get residue/oils off paint.)

6. Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer

7. WGDGPS 3.0

8. 6-pack Goose Island Honkers Ale

Please add/subtract as you see fit. (Except for the beer.)

I'm kinda foggy about steps 5 & 6. I'm thinking both aren't needed?

Thanks!

LOL at #8

Skip #6. #5 is a good option.

You don't NEED to use IronX, but it is good stuff.

[Mizzoutiger]

I would throw a decontamination (iron x) between #1 & #2 and leave out #5. Also do a test spot to see exactly whats needed as far as correcting the paint. Good luck

[Paul A.]

I agree with deleting #6 but i might want to do a test spot with it to see if it makes a difference. If so? By all means. If not? Saves some time. I also agree with a complete decon by adding an iron dissolver before the clay process. If you don't have any Iron X you can get away with the smallest bottle of it...500 ML. I use maybe 300 ML on a medium sized vehicle if it has never had it.

Oh, and i don't care what anyone else here says...DO NOT delete #8!

[Mike Honcho]

I think I will go with the IronX, for curiosity sake.

[Mike Honcho]

I also think I underestimated step 8. I'll need a 12 pack. Haha!

[cardaddy]

Yeah, I wouldn't worry about D114 unless you're doing a coating.

Not sure about #6 either, if you're doing 4000 you'll not need it.

On a DD, you'll REALLY be surprised just how well FG400 will work!

What you can do with it, is start with your cutting pad(s), like say orange LC pads. Then halfway through the working process of the product, switch to a blue pad to finish the products work cycle. It's not a full 2-step process, but it'll look like one. I call it the 1.5 step.

What you DO want to do is prime both pads at first, then work both pads completely through a cycle, then clean on the fly. Then once you start again with product on the cutting cycle you leave what you can after 4 or so passes, THEN switch to the finer pad without adding any more product (maybe a spritz of water) then work it down.

You might end up not even wanting to deal with the 4000.


Or you can 'cheat' a little and just do it on the hood, roof, trunk, and tops of the fenders.