Heavily oxidized paint or worse?? How to polish...

[mcdavis]

Please view the attached photos.

This is a Mercedes ML320 from 1999. When it was new, we used to Zaino it...

We haven't done anything with the SUV in perhaps 6-7 years. What a mess.

How would you approach this one?

Clay before polish, polish before clay?
Is the paint just oxidized or worse?
What kind of powered buffer and polish would you recommend?
What specific clay bar?
Specific wax? Is Zaino still really good or is there something better these days?

We also have some heavy scratching on parts of the car near the driver side key...from keys...what a mess.

Thanks, Regards, -mark

[RoyalBlUE08]

im no professional at all, im new to machine stuff, but it looks like it might need sanding. wash, clay, sand, compound, polish, sealant are the usual steps to correcting paint

[Setec Astronomy]

That paint looks failed, but you might be able to bring it back. If you can get some shine on it...this might be great application for Opti-Coat 2.0 to save you from a repaint.

I gather you don't have a machine since this is your first post. You're going to get a lot of different opinions, and there is no "best" approach. You'll want to do a thorough wash, then clay, then move on to polishing.

I think if it was me starting out from scratch, I'd go for the Meguiar's G110 and the Microfiber DA polishing system, although there are plenty of options.

[Setec Astronomy]

im no professional at all, im new to machine stuff, but it looks like it might need sanding. wash, clay, sand, compound, polish, sealant are the usual steps to correcting paint

There is NO way I would sand that until it's established what the condition of the finish is, not to mention a whole lot of other reasons. It is completely incorrect to state that sanding is a "usual" step.

[RTexasF]

im no professional at all, im new to machine stuff, but it looks like it might need sanding. wash, clay, sand, compound, polish, sealant are the usual steps to correcting paint

FAR from correct. You admit you're not a professional and new to "machine stuff" yet offer advice? Very poor advice at that so please refrain from offering it until you've some idea of what you're talking about.
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mcdavis -

You can buy all the compound, polish, and buffers you wish but you may find it a lost cause. Even if it can be saved this is a major project for someone seasoned much less the first time out with a brand new buffer. Why not find a professional in your area and get their opinion if the paint can be saved or not? They could do a trial section to evaluate after reading the thickness of the paint. Go from there.....

[rwright]

There is NO way I would sand that until it's established what the condition of the finish is, not to mention a whole lot of other reasons. It is completely incorrect to state that sanding is a "usual" step.

Sanding is not a "usual" step for me either.

OP, in all honesty that simply looks like swirled up clear coat and could be compounded and polished. This is just my opinion based on 2 low resolution pictures. Making an assessment in person could prove to be something totally different such as failed clear coat.

This looks a little similar to what you posted and I was able to compound/polish to restore the luster:

[Nozama]

"You can buy all the compound, polish, and buffers you wish but you may find it a lost cause. Even if it can be saved this is a major project for someone seasoned much less the first time out with a brand new buffer. Why not find a professional in your area and get their opinion if the paint can be saved or not? They could do a trial section to evaluate after reading the thickness of the paint. Go from there....."

That's really the best advice

[Setec Astronomy]

You can buy all the compound, polish, and buffers you wish but you may find it a lost cause. Even if it can be saved this is a major project for someone seasoned much less the first time out with a brand new buffer. Why not find a professional in your area and get their opinion if the paint can be saved or not? They could do a trial section to evaluate after reading the thickness of the paint. Go from there.....

That's certainly good advice. Another way to go is to Wal-Mart, Target, Pep Boys, etc. and get a bottle of Meg's Ultimate Compound, a microfiber applicator, and some halfway decent towels for wipe off, and vigorously do a small test spot by hand and see if it improves...that's $12-14 and a small amount of time.

[Mike Phillips]

im new to machine stuff,

A couple guys chimed in on your post... I just wanted to point at that we were all new at one time including myself and all the seasoned pros I know so please continue to read the forum and chime in when you want...

There's a lot to learn today... and there will be more to learn tomorrow, I don't then any of us will ever be done learning or ever know it all...

[mcdavis]

WOWZA, lots of great posts...Thank you!

I can post ultra-high res pictures if necessary (those are iPhone4, I can do Canon 5DMkII if needed).

Any recommendations for pros in Portland, Oregon for an assessment?

We are going to sell the car...(likely a Cayenne S or 300HP X3 will replace). I thought I might as well learn to do this the right way to do the new car and also my existing MINI...and perhaps a 991 911 that may come after that .

Re: buffers...I really like Festool stuff and wanted to go with the Shinex..yet the PC 7424 seems "safe" (dual action). I really just want whatever product is best and more efficient; I really don't car what the stuff costs.

If you were to wash, then clay bar and compound this car, given the condition and shape, what products would you recommend?

Thanks again, Mark