Help: Garage Drywalling Material/Labor Estimation???

[2old2change]

Tenorplayer23
Running late today. Broke down last night in Walcott IA. The lights I have are from Lithonia Lighting. 120 volt Specification Premium T8 Flanged Troffer,1'x4', 2 lamp (my bad I thought it was 4 ) ,Pattern 12 Acrylic Lens, T8 Electronic Ballast. Part # SP8 F 2 32 A12 120 GESB and sku # 84231 18052 .The acrylic lens is framed and swings open for bulb change. Can post a picture this weekend. Barley have time to eat,shower and leave out for Mn tonite. No rest for the wicked they say.

Paul S

[T Riddle]

$1300 is his estimate for insulating & drywalling the 2 completely exposed walls, plus the wall with the garage doors. Includes labor & materials. Plus, he will trim one window and put in 3-4 electrical outlets. For the ceiling work, he estimated about the same amount (an additional $1300). Per my back of the envelope estimate, materials for the walls only, window trim out, outlets, would be less than $600 up here at The HD (swag at $450-500 or so). My guy does this on the side.....not trying to make a living, seems fair & per recommendations, does very exacting work. I'm lucky if his numbers are inexpensive, as well.

Say, since you're a contractor, what would you recommend for a ceiling?? Drywall seems to be the finish of choice, plus there have some other interesting suggestions. The joists are ~9 +/-ft. off the floor, plus have a peeked roof with rafters. I like the flexibility of being able to store long stuff on the joists, such as some spare lumber, hockey sticks, skis, etc.. It's easy when it's open. My contractor mentioned a drop ceiling in a garage?? Any opinion? Any superior techniques you've seen? Just thought I'd ask.

Anyway, thx for the tips. Feel free to add anything else you'd recommend for walls, ceiling or floor. Our temperature gradient is a bit different than East TX, but, the garage is pretty standard construction.

See ya

One thing I would throw out there to think about is your ceiling height. If your going to be using your garage for detailing, a nine foot finished height is very nice for getting the tops of vehicles off of a ladder and such. If you go with a drop down ceiling then your looking at losing some of that height. Also I would look at what was mentioned before about installing a pull down stair case.

As far as floor goes I would be careful when selecting a type of finish, as most of the spray on types I have delt with seem to peel very easily after just a few years. Try to get it installed with a really good warranty. I know The HD does this and usually has a nice warranty as well.


The estimate seems about right now that you broke it down a little better for me. I would go for it and get it all nice and finished out. I would bet you would be really happy getting it all done at once and would be able to enjoy your garage much more being able to put in a space heater for cold winters.

Let me know if I can be of further help in any way.

[tenorplayer23]

Thx for the additional tips & info. I agree about the ceiling height loss and probably would look better in sheetrock anyway. Plus, the ladder idea for $100 material is easy to absorb. Frankly, after looking through the forum at various lift installations & garages really tricked out, I wish I could justify the having the car overhead, but, alas, I can't

Could you explain your flooring comments? Not sure I understand what type material you're talking about that is sprayed on. Epoxy? I thought that was a paint roller application?? The rough estimates I have for a pro epoxy install are $2-3K for the 3-car size. I know it's a lot less for DYI, but the reviews are mixed. Some swear by it....others, not so much. Frankly, for the effort & work.....I would hope it comes with a warranty. There are also decking/roll on products that look great, but not sure about how it works in the land of ice/snow & crap! On the other hand, you know what you're getting & you can take it with you....at least that's what the mfrs. say. And, some designs/actual installs on The Garage Journal forum are really beautiful

I think you're also right about doing it all at once......and not screwing around with piece meal. Have to think through some of the other design factors if I am going to seal up the ceiling........get's harder to add, when the mud is dry!

I thought you'd think the estimate was good...the more I checked & thought about the cost (especially with a hand in the material buy) it would come in at less than the $1300, I suspect.

Let me know about the flooring...........

Thx.

See ya.

One thing I would throw out there to think about is your ceiling height. If your going to be using your garage for detailing, a nine foot finished height is very nice for getting the tops of vehicles off of a ladder and such. If you go with a drop down ceiling then your looking at losing some of that height. Also I would look at what was mentioned before about installing a pull down stair case.

As far as floor goes I would be careful when selecting a type of finish, as most of the spray on types I have delt with seem to peel very easily after just a few years. Try to get it installed with a really good warranty. I know The HD does this and usually has a nice warranty as well.


The estimate seems about right now that you broke it down a little better for me. I would go for it and get it all nice and finished out. I would bet you would be really happy getting it all done at once and would be able to enjoy your garage much more being able to put in a space heater for cold winters.

Let me know if I can be of further help in any way.

[T Riddle]

Thx for the additional tips & info. I agree about the ceiling height loss and probably would look better in sheetrock anyway. Plus, the ladder idea for $100 material is easy to absorb. Frankly, after looking through the forum at various lift installations & garages really tricked out, I wish I could justify the having the car overhead, but, alas, I can't

Could you explain your flooring comments? Not sure I understand what type material you're talking about that is sprayed on. Epoxy? I thought that was a paint roller application?? The rough estimates I have for a pro epoxy install are $2-3K for the 3-car size. I know it's a lot less for DYI, but the reviews are mixed. Some swear by it....others, not so much. Frankly, for the effort & work.....I would hope it comes with a warranty. There are also decking/roll on products that look great, but not sure about how it works in the land of ice/snow & crap! On the other hand, you know what you're getting & you can take it with you....at least that's what the mfrs. say. And, some designs/actual installs on The Garage Journal forum are really beautiful

I think you're also right about doing it all at once......and not screwing around with piece meal. Have to think through some of the other design factors if I am going to seal up the ceiling........get's harder to add, when the mud is dry!

I thought you'd think the estimate was good...the more I checked & thought about the cost (especially with a hand in the material buy) it would come in at less than the $1300, I suspect.

Let me know about the flooring...........

Thx.


See ya.

Talked with my painter yesterday about the flooring. He said what happens with the epoxy's is that there will be moisture under them even after a couple years and start to peel and flake. So at 2-3k you might be at a huge lose. A friend of mine with an install


shop here in town went with the very low profile carpet. You won't be able to get it soaking wet but but it is cheap and easier to replace once it needs replacing.

[tenorplayer23]

NOT in this area...........this is the land of snow/salt & crap!

Let's look for a better solution. BTW, the epoxy floors done correctly "must" be OK. Their used in commercial environments that are much more abusive than a home garage. On the other hand, DIY install come in all shapes and forms....from very cheap paints to much better multi-part systems. The cost varies a lot, as well, but doing it right is much more difficult. But, carpet is not the right solution.......it will be wet all the time and ruin the concrete.

Thx.

See ya.

Talked with my painter yesterday about the flooring. He said what happens with the epoxy's is that there will be moisture under them even after a couple years and start to peel and flake. So at 2-3k you might be at a huge lose. A friend of mine with an install


shop here in town went with the very low profile carpet. You won't be able to get it soaking wet but but it is cheap and easier to replace once it needs replacing.

[Evolve]

NOT in this area...........this is the land of snow/salt & crap!

You aren't kidding...I moved back Oklahoma from Rochester a few months ago...I hated winters there, for the most part there is just no keeping your car clean for more than a day or 2 for several months.

[2003 GMC Denali]

there is just no keeping your car clean for more than a day or 2 for several months.

My "several months" stretch has already started. There's really no point in doing any detailing until next Summer.

[Vette 03]

Hello I am new to this site but just wanted to help you out ! I Have been a carpenter for over 38 years with over 12 of them as a Building Inspector so a couple of things to take into consideration when going into a Project such as this. The Gentleman who told you couldn't, be more correct in the statement of look ahead for all and anything you may want to possibly do in the future! More outlets is never a bad thing ever! Outlets down low on the walls of the garage for lighting at the lower part of the vehicle is also another thought you may want to Ponder, lighting at that location is always useful for detailing!!! You can always rough it in and cover open unfilled boxes with a blank cover and finish it later, but to do the whole process later is even more expensive!! Please be sure to not let anybody "bury or cover up a electrical box behind drywall" all boxes must be accessible, they may be accessed threw a multitude of ways but must be easily and readily accessible. Some acceptable ways of access are a outlet box itself, or a light fixture, or a Pull box no outlet, but a cover to remove, or a access panel, even a cheap plastic one is acceptable, or from above in the attic, if the box faces up and can be seen from the attic, or a drop ceiling, where you only need to remove a ceiling panel are all acceptable means of access!!!!!! The price seems to be a good quote for the job. I myself would stay away from poly on the walls for a vapor barrier, use kraft faced or the foam but the foam must be coverd with drywall. If I can help in any way just ask and I will do my best to get back to you ASAP .

[tenorplayer23]

Thanks...........glad to have the input. While you're at it, what do you think of the estimates I got?

Also, I'd like to have access to the joists overhead for storage of random stuff, but would just as soon have a nice drywall ceiling. A contractor suggested a drop ceiling......any pluses/minuses for that in a "garage environment"?

Also, while I'm rambling at the keyboard.......I need storage space & cabinets out there, badly! Any good suggestions for type/brand name or "other ideas" to help me out?

FYI - I have done more searching on the web, seeking examples, et. al. Came up with two finds thus far. First, The Garage Journal on-line forum. Perhaps you're familiar.

The Garage Journal

Second, I got a line on some pretty good cabinets & other pieces that come from (or through) Sam's Club. Seville Classics - Storage Cabinets - Ultra HD Commercial Grade Storage Cabinets

Just thought i'd throw that in.

Any help would be appreciated.........the garage is nothing amazing, 3-car, unfinished so far, 2"x4" studs, one window to trim out, one double door/one single door, ~9-10' ceiling height to joists, peaked roof above...................

Thx.

See ya.

Hello I am new to this site but just wanted to help you out ! I Have been a carpenter for over 38 years with over 12 of them as a Building Inspector so a couple of things to take into consideration when going into a Project such as this. The Gentleman who told you couldn't, be more correct in the statement of look ahead for all and anything you may want to possibly do in the future! More outlets is never a bad thing ever! Outlets down low on the walls of the garage for lighting at the lower part of the vehicle is also another thought you may want to Ponder, lighting at that location is always useful for detailing!!! You can always rough it in and cover open unfilled boxes with a blank cover and finish it later, but to do the whole process later is even more expensive!! Please be sure to not let anybody "bury or cover up a electrical box behind drywall" all boxes must be accessible, they may be accessed threw a multitude of ways but must be easily and readily accessible. Some acceptable ways of access are a outlet box itself, or a light fixture, or a Pull box no outlet, but a cover to remove, or a access panel, even a cheap plastic one is acceptable, or from above in the attic, if the box faces up and can be seen from the attic, or a drop ceiling, where you only need to remove a ceiling panel are all acceptable means of access!!!!!! The price seems to be a good quote for the job. I myself would stay away from poly on the walls for a vapor barrier, use kraft faced or the foam but the foam must be coverd with drywall. If I can help in any way just ask and I will do my best to get back to you ASAP .

[Vette 03]

You can have the best of both worlds! Drop the ceiling only 4-5 inches and install 23 3/4 inch by 47 3/4 inch drywall in the 2x4 openings of the Grid work, you can cut them yourself, and paint them any color, or you can also purchase them from a supply house with a vinyl face for easy clean up, have been used for many different type projects for years! Also ease of access above to the rafters. The estimate does not appear to be exorbitant but one thing to remember is have 3 bids minimum all bidding on exactly the the exact same thing with references to call!!!!! Never take only one bid , APPLES TO APPLES!!!!