Pad usage for SS Toyota Paint

**davidc** · 05-26-2013, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by ge0rge

Just so I understand, use Duragloss 601 followed by a coat of Duragloss 501 or Duragloss 105? Is this also a good combo for my Infiniti which has a clearcoat?

Yes to the Infiniti. You can do the 601 seperate or you can mix 1 part 601 to 4 parts 501 and/or 105 and save a step. I use AG's squeeze bottles for this as they work very well after I use a tape and put a bunch of 1/4" marks on the bottle. Mix does not have to be dead on I just get it close. Did the Wife's Sienna like this and used a Edge green pad with the speed on 2-3.

Dave

**ge0rge** · 05-26-2013, 02:20 PM

Originally Posted by davidc

Yes to the Infiniti. You can do the 601 seperate or you can mix 1 part 601 to 4 parts 501 and/or 105 and save a step. I use AG's squeeze bottles for this as they work very well after I use a tape and put a bunch of 1/4" marks on the bottle. Mix does not have to be dead on I just get it close. Did the Wife's Sienna like this and used a Edge green pad with the speed on 2-3.

Dave

I am going to buy Lake Country CCS pads, 12 pads total. Trying to figure out what I need is a bit confusing. I know there is oxidation but I don't think it is the worst of worst. Anyone here use CCS pads that can lend some guidance on pad choices? This is the plan for the Sienna:

Wash
Clay (have not decided on brand)
Megs UC
Duragloss 601/105

**davidc** · 05-26-2013, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by ge0rge

I am going to buy Lake Country CCS pads, 12 pads total. Trying to figure out what I need is a bit confusing. I know there is oxidation but I don't think it is the worst of worst. Anyone here use CCS pads that can lend some guidance on pad choices? This is the plan for the Sienna:

Wash
Clay (have not decided on brand)
Megs UC
Duragloss 601/105

You may want to do the 601/501 first with a finishing pad as they say it is a great cleaner for white paint. You may want to pick up some DG 652 in case the 501 does not get rid of the oxidation to your satisfaction. Better to have it and not need it than not have it and need it. You want mild oxidation and finishing pads if that helps.

Dave

**ge0rge** · 05-26-2013, 02:41 PM

Originally Posted by davidc

You may want to do the 601/501 first with a finishing pad as they say it is a great cleaner for white paint. You may want to pick up some DG 652 in case the 501 does not get rid of the oxidation to your satisfaction. Better to have it and not need it than not have it and need it. You want mild oxidation and finishing pads if that helps.

Dave

Thanks for your help, been reading about Duragloss products since you mentioned them.

**davidc** · 05-26-2013, 02:50 PM

This is the Wife's Desert Sand 05 with DG and topped with Opti-Seal

**ge0rge** · 05-26-2013, 03:26 PM

It looks good. If the DG can last up to a year, why the Opti-Seal? Just curious...

**davidc** · 05-26-2013, 03:36 PM

Originally Posted by ge0rge

It looks good. If the DG can last up to a year, why the Opti-Seal? Just curious...

Basically more UV protection. Every bit helps in AZ. and 115. I will use everything at my disposal to keep the paint on the vehicles and make cleaning as easy as possible.

Dave

**sillybinaries** · 05-26-2013, 04:44 PM

Originally Posted by ge0rge

How is BlackFire holding up? I was thinking about buying everything separately. I see that Collonite is supposed to be a good product. Can anyone offer up a suggestion to protect the finish once I get it to that point. I am thinking of using Megs UC to clean it up as I know it worked previously by hand. Thoughts/Suggestions? Thanks to all for the pad help.

I just tried the blackfire total polish and seal + crystal seal this week, so I do not know the durability at this point but expect 3-4 months.

As other members mentioned the 501/601 combo is a great, then follow up with power lock and watch it shine.

It's funny, I used to just use klasse often followed up with powerlock then 845. But hanging around this place I seem to get the "that looks interesting bug" I most likley will be trying black light and V7 in the near future..

My recommendation, 501/601 + powerlock and you should be good to go. With white I would stay away from the carnauba wax, as it can introduce a bit of yellowing IMO.

Good luck man!

**ge0rge** · 05-26-2013, 05:51 PM

I washed the Sienna, could barely tell after the fact. I clayed down the rear panel and used UC by hand and it turned out really well. I followed with Ultimate Polish then onto Ultimate Wax. Complete night and day. But took a ton of work to do one panel.

The UC dries out rather quickly even when doing a small section at a time. Do all these types of compounds do this? Any way to help with this issue?

**sillybinaries** · 05-26-2013, 06:03 PM

Originally Posted by ge0rge

I washed the Sienna, could barely tell after the fact. I clayed down the rear panel and used UC by hand and it turned out really well. I followed with Ultimate Polish then onto Ultimate Wax. Complete night and day. But took a ton of work to do one panel.

The UC dries out rather quickly even when doing a small section at a time. Do all these types of compounds do this? Any way to help with this issue?

From my past experience UC has a very long work time, I actually prefer it to 105 because of this exact reason. When you were working a panel, were you doing larger than say a 18x18 area by hand? This may be the reason. If it dries out fast, just hit it with a quick detailer mist, and you should be good to go and shrink down you work area if applicable.