Black residue on clay and pads? What could it be?

[Malibulx3]

Well I'm just in the first stages of my first exterior buffing/polishing, and I've come across something I haven't been able to find much relevant information about, so I thought I would ask the expert!

The vehicle in question is a 1992 Volvo 240 wagon, which I was unsure whether the paint is singe stage or base/clear.



I asked around, and received a variety of answers. So, I tried your test, How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint, and concluded, as shown in that thread, that my paint was in fact base/clear.

So, I moved onto the first stage following a good washing, which was claying. The hood was pretty sticky,but after some time, it was like glass! The lower section of the door panels and quarter panels did not seem to have much above surface contaminants, however, when it got to the roof and upper door panels where it curves into the glass, that was a different story.



I went through more clay on the roof alone than I did on the whole rest of the car! After a lot of elbow grease and clay, I got the roof acceptable. There was still some black residue coming off the paint, but the clay was gliding very smoothly.

So, then I moved onto compounding with Optimum Compound II, my PC7424XP, and an orange pad. After I had completed one 2 x 2 section on the roof, I took a look at the pad and it's got black residue on it, just as the clay did. So I continue, just washing out my pad every 2 section, just thinking it's embedded dirt, as this car was rarely even washing in its 20 year life. Everything is going well, I'm getting the results I'm looking for for the most part, and I continue on. The roof is done with Compound II, so I switch to a white pad and Optimum Polish II, and the same thing happens! The pad is black again!




So what is it? Single stage paint after all? Embedded contaminants? Poor wash job prior to detailing? I don't think it's normal to have to wash my pad every 2 sections, and since I only have one which pad right now, this is going to take a longggg time at this rate.

Other than the black residue, the car is looking great! But I'm also noticing many more RIDS than I thought the car original had.

[oneill24]

looks to me that its a single stage paint for sure. I dont think its possible for you to clay and still have that much dirt or whatever it is that comes off on the pads

[Mike Phillips]

That's too much blackness to be any type of topical or embedded staining...

You're working on single stage paint, at least somewhere on the vehicles...


Looks like too much pigment transfer to be a tinted clear. For reference, there's a picture in this thread that shows what pigment coming off a tinted clear looks like,


Here's a little article I put together simply using the different paint systems that have been put through our weekly car detailing projects...


Single Stage Paint - Tinted Clears - Basecoat/Clearcoat - Embedded Dirt

[Dr Oldz]

I agree that you are working on single stage paint. Perhaps the area you tested to see if it is single stage or cleared was resprayed at one point and now has clear on it while other parts of the car are indeed single stage.

[Malibulx3]

That's too much blackness to be any type of topical or embedded staining...

You're working on single stage paint, at least somewhere on the vehicles...


Looks like too much pigment transfer to be a tinted clear. For reference, there's a picture in this thread that shows what pigment coming off a tinted clear looks like,


Here's a little article I put together simply using the different paint systems that have been put through our weekly car detailing projects...


Single Stage Paint - Tinted Clears - Basecoat/Clearcoat - Embedded Dirt

Thanks for the quick reply. Will my original plan of Optimum Compound II, Polish II, and Fine Polish II. And than top it off with Collinite #845 still be alright for this paint? Or should I consider something else?

[Mike Phillips]

The vehicle in question is a 1992 Volvo 240 wagon, which I was unsure whether the paint is singe stage or base/clear.

In 1992 there were still car manufactures painting single stage paint, so it's possible to be a factory single stage finish.

It's also possible to be re-paint.


[quote=Malibulx3;594480]
I asked around, and received a variety of answers. So, I tried your test, How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint, and concluded, as shown in that thread, that my paint was in fact base/clear.

Did you test more than one panel?

See this article I wrote in 2008 for MOL

How To Test for a Clearcoat or Single Stage Paint Finish

Photos Courtesy of MeguiarsOnline




Here's what my buffing pad looked like after buffing the trunk lid. If you see the color of the paint
on your car building up on the face of your buffing pad.



It was very apparent when I went from buffing on the clear coat sections to the single stage trunk lid.

Other than the black residue, the car is looking great! But I'm also noticing many more RIDS than I thought the car original had.

That's normal. As you remove the millions of shallow scratches out of the paint the remaining deeper scratches then stick out like a sore thumb.

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks for the quick reply. Will my original plan of Optimum Compound II, Polish II, and Fine Polish II. And than top it off with Collinite #845 still be alright for this paint? Or should I consider something else?

Those products will work spectacular!


Already looking forward to the after pictures...

If you're not already, you can speed things up by just cleaning your pad on the fly and wait to actually water wash the pads at the end of the job.


How to clean your foam pad on the fly


This is me using the Clean your Pad on the Fly Technique to clean my pad on the fly as we removed the oxidation off this Neon.

[Soakin' Joe's]

That's too much blackness to be any type of topical or embedded staining...

You're working on single stage paint, at least somewhere on the vehicles...


Looks like too much pigment transfer to be a tinted clear. For reference, there's a picture in this thread that shows what pigment coming off a tinted clear looks like,


Here's a little article I put together simply using the different paint systems that have been put through our weekly car detailing projects...


Single Stage Paint - Tinted Clears - Basecoat/Clearcoat - Embedded Dirt

Agreed

[Malibulx3]

Those products will work spectacular!


Already looking forward to the after pictures...

If you're not already, you can speed things up by just cleaning your pad on the fly and wait to actually water wash the pads at the end of the job.

Thanks. Here is a sample of what's to come...no wax or sealant in this picture, just compound and polish...

[Malibulx3]

Did you test more than one panel?

Well, after the polishing stages, I now believe half my car is clear coat and half is not!

Apparently, the roof, and drivers side below the belt line trim is NOT clear coated. However, the hood, entire passenger side, tailgate, and drivers side above the belt line IS clear coated. Unfortunately I am not able to ask the previous owner what the deal is, as I purchased the car from a used car lot.

This really stinks! But I guess one way to look at it is at least my car is still going to look better than it ever has!