Beyond repair???

[58LesPaul]

Is this boat gelcoat beyond repair?


This isn't my boat but stopped to look at it and consider purchasing if cheap enough and repairable.

[GSKR]

I see mold and severe flat oxidation,is this what you are concerned about?

[58LesPaul]

Yes, can it be corrected to near new shine or is it a waste of effort?

[GSKR]

The only way to tell is a test spot on the worst part of the boat.

[Hoytman]

So others can help you, it may help to tell us what kind of boat, the year, what tools and products you have.

GSKR has given you one important tip...the most important as a matter of fact. You will proceed with a test spot once you tell us what tools and products you have as well as the other information. If you don't have tools and products, then there's a number of choices and I'm sure you'll get plenty of suggestions. We have a good group of experienced and knowledgeable folks here.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...test-spot.html An article on doing a test spot on paint, but it's the same for gel-coat really.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...spot-boat.html

http://www.marine31online.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58

http://www.marine31online.com/forum/...read.php?t=147

http://www.autogeek.net/marine-31-boat-book.html

http://www.marine31online.com/forum/...read.php?t=315

http://www.marine31online.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...aft-detailing/

[dcjredline]

Good marine wash soap with an ounce of some degreaser should take care of the black spots. FG400 and some foamed wool pads should put a good hurting on that chalky white. Test spot for sure.

[58LesPaul]

The boat is a 2003 Nitro Fish & Ski.

I'm new to paint correction but I have the GG6 da, orange, white and black pads and all I have now is Megs UC and polish. I've read for this kind of oxidation I will need a wool pad and rotary buffer?

You think the owner will let me do a test spot before I consider purchasing?

[Hoytman]

With your test spot you will always start with the least aggressive method first, say your polish. If that doesn't work, then try your compound...and if that works, then use your polish again to refine it. That is the normal progression of how to proceed with a test spot. The idea being that you need to find out what products will remove the oxidation and which will restore the surface to like new. Better to do that in a small spot than to try and do the entire boat with a hope and a prayer then be disappointed with the outcome and waste your labor. Work smart!

With gel-coat, since it's harder and thicker than paint, you should be fine to start a bit more aggressive than you would on paint, so continue on speed 6, orange pad, with your compound. Just keep your area around 1ft. square or smaller.

Show us a picture of the entire boat...in other words, not so close. It might help others make a better suggestion by seeing the entire condition of the boat.

If your orange pad and UC doesn't work you're likely going to need to get a product with more cut, perhaps a more aggressive pad, and maybe even a rotary or even all of these at once. From what I'm seeing I think FG400 is a good suggestion if you have that product, but don't rush out to buy it if you don't because I think you'd be better served by products intended for use on boats...of which here are 3 that work the same as FG400 but are likely to be more aggressive.

Products that work like Menzerna FG400...
captains compound, one step boat compound polish, compound for black boat

3M Marine Compound & Finishing Material - 06044

Meguiars M67 One Step Marine Compound

The down side to these is they're expensive with exception to M67 which is on sale right now for $22 dollars a quart here at AG...I think it's on sale. Expense along with the fact that you should only need them once, unless you're planning on doing more boats, is another factor. Whereas IF (big ? of if) FG400 would help you, then you could use it on paint as well. Most recommend against using Marine cutting products on paint because they're too aggressive.

If I had some FG400 I'd send you a sample to try on a test spot, but I don't have any at the moment. Perhaps someone else could send you a sample. I think you'll find you're going to need it or one of the 3 even more aggressive products I mentioned. Maybe not without seeing the entire boat and some photo's that aren't so washed out with white.

Are you considering buying this boat? If so, providing a couple more pictures may save you the trouble of doing a test spot to see if it can be fixed. I'm confident it can be. Or, are you wondering if the owner will let you do a test spot before you buy products? If he won't then I'd pass on the job because that's your tell-all of what you're in for...gives you a good indication of how tough, or not, this job will be so you can figure your labor. Guys with more experience can probably do this without doing a test spot, but I'd never try it...I always do a test spot.

[PaulMys]

Those are pics of top-side gel-coat. A LOT of boat owners wax the hull, but for some unknown reason don't touch the topsides (above the rub rail) with anything more than boat soap.

I've been in the marine business for about 30 years (mechanic side), but have met my fair share of 'glass guys, and some really good ones. Hard to tell from those pics, but if the oxidation is severe, the only solution is wet-sanding and/or a paint job.

Severely neglected (i.e. failed) gel coat when compounded, polished, and waxed looks great for about 3 days, then starts to absorb the product, and then looks like you did next to nothing to it.

[58LesPaul]

Never mind guys, I'm no longer looking to buy this boat. Thanks for all the replies though.