Bit of a noob question, but why compound before polish?

[Niko Molina]

Compounding and polishing are about the same thing. Only difference is the aggressiveness, correct? Compounding and polishing BOTH cut into the paint, but compounding essentially cuts deeper.


Shouldn't one polish FIRST as a 'first attempt' to try and get a light scratch out, remove some oxidation, swirls, etc. and then if the polishing does NOT work, then 'up' the aggressiveness into the compounding stage.

Yet detailers start off aggressive/compounding first then move to polishing... then sealant then wax (or what-have-you).

[TurboToys]

a good detailer will always start as light as possible. most test out a few different combinations on bad spots to see how aggressive they need to go to get the correction they need. and then repeat it for the rest of the car.

if someone just starts out with a super heavy cut just to "be sure", then don't let them touch your paint because there wont be any left next time.

[Niko Molina]

a good detailer will always start as light as possible. most test out a few different combinations on bad spots to see how aggressive they need to go to get the correction they need. and then repeat it for the rest of the car.

if someone just starts out with a super heavy cut just to "be sure", then don't let them touch your paint because there wont be any left next time.

That's what I'm saying man. How come people compound before they polish?

[allenk4]

That's what I'm saying man. How come people compound before they polish?

We don't every time

If you are working on a piece of wood, you could start with sandpaper and make it whatever shape you want. Using a saw or lathe or chisel first to get it close to the shape you want; the final result will come much quicker.


We do a test spot using the least aggressive methods 1st

The test spot dictates what you start with and what you finish with.


If you can see swirls with you naked eye, you know that the paint needs to be polished. What you don't know for sure is how deep the defects are and how hard the clear coat is.

In some cases a few passes with light pressure and a medium polish on a white pad will give the correction you want.

In other instances, what appear to be the same type of swirls can require 6-8 passes with heavy pressure and an aggressive compound on an cutting pad (MF, Wool, Orange, PFW).

The "and what you finish with." portion relates to the fact that some paints will finish LSP ready after a fairly aggressive compounding and do not need the 2nd step of polishing. Some paints require aggressive compounding to remove RIDS and heavy swirls; followed by polishing to remove the smaller defect left behind by the compounding step.

[jamesboyy]

Sorry for intruding, though you don't always have to compound a paintwork if you take care of your paint , use a light polish at the beginning of spring/summer and proper gentle detailing methods now if you don't take care of your paint yes you will have to compound cause a polish is not strong enough to remove mostly every single swirl scratch etc and while it cuts more you don't keep working on the same panel a few passes and you move on so there is skin( clear coat) left for a later date... this is just my eight cent

[Paul A.]

After doing some test spots many times you resort to a more aggressive approach due to the paint not responding as well to a less aggressive "polish" attempt. When that happens and you need to step it up to a more aggressive combo of product and/or pad to correct the paints imperfections you will then need to level the surface imperfections left from compounding. You polish after compounding to remove the finer imperfections, remove any hazing or holograms and to refine the shine and gloss.

That is not to say you always compound. Some jobs i've had (e.g. Soft black Honda paint) a polish with a very light approach was all that was needed. On the other hand, the Black Lincoln Navigator i have this week needs some serious compounding with a wool pad and will definately need some finish steps after i compound to maximize the gloss and insure the paint is as flat and level as possible.

[brondondolon]

I've never started out with a compound. Some one starting out with a heavy cut compound without doing a test spot either has no idea what they are doing or have such a good eye and knowledge that they already know how hard the surface is and how deep the scratches are but that would be really rare and if someone was that good I guarantee they still might do a test spot.

My combo of choice is a LC Orange flat pad with WG TSR 3.0 it seems this combo can be worked to remove deeper scratches or as a light polish.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online

[DogRescuer]

That's what I'm saying man. How come people compound before they polish?

Sometimes honestly its lack of knowledge or experience or on the other end its lack of patience which I need more off

[c8n]

That's what I'm saying man. How come people compound before they polish?

There are other variables that determines the overall aggressiveness of an approach such as pad selection, pressure and etc. Chemical used is not the only determining factor.
Having said that, I will go on to say that every paint will react differently. Sometimes a compound like M105 on a white pad can do wonders and finish off LSP ready.

[Lakeside Detail]

That's what I'm saying man. How come people compound before they polish?

A compound is necessary to correct defects on car that's swirled badly. A compound will correct much faster than a polish. The idea is to make 6 section passes and get good correction. Say you make 6 section passes with a polish and get 30% correction. You would then have to make 18 section passes on the same 2x2 foot area to achieve good correction. Those numbers were just a example...

That's more wear on your pads, machine, body, and it takes a lot more time and polish.