Sealant /Wax over coating?

[nat88]

Hi,

I just did Black Label Surface on my palladium metalic silver. It's great. but after 1 day of snows and road dust, salt, you can tell...the paint is very dirty. I also find that the dressing on tires with Blackfire total eclipse gel, mostly gone.

I forget to mention that I prepare for coating over 4 days including polish, prep and coating. Coating time cure is about 48hrs in queen garage.

Due to temperature drops to under 30F, I could rinse my car by using only water pressure, then keep the car in the garage.

1 day later, the paint is not smooth anymore, it's rough, but water's beating and sheeting still there.

then question is:

after coating, still we need to apply sealant and wax or not? Is coating really changing the world of detailing?

thank you for time and support.

[StangFan25]

Hello.

Its not necessary to apply anything else over the coating. You could, but not needed.

From what I gather, you did not actually wash the car but just rinsed it. This is probably why it looks dirty and not as good as it did after the coating.

Trust the coating protection. Its working. You sound like a great candidate for a waterless wash or rinseless wash. This will clean the car without any(waterless), or very little (rinseless) water. This will bring back that beautiful glossy shine from the coating!

[HateSwirls]

Well it's protected, not sure why it would be rough already.
If you want the slickest, shiniest pain top it with Wolfgang Gloss Paint Sealant.
I'm here to tell you it's an amazing sealant, you'd have the best of both worlds so to speak.
Great protection and a very smooth finish.
Keep us posted.

Wash it really good then seal it, let if cure an hour and wipe off, your jaw will drop

[zmcgovern45]

I would recommend using a product like CarPro Reload or HydrO2 if you want to 'top' your coating with something.

As far as your paint feeling "rough"... it sounds like you did not properly wash it, therefore it would still be dirty. If this is the case, you need to perform a proper wash to remove the contamination from your paint and to restore that nice, smooth feeling.

[Klasse Act]

I'll comment on the BF total eclipse tire gel. I've found that will tire gels you really need to lay down a good base, which ends up soaking into the rubber and thus doesn't wear down as much. I used BF Total Eclipse tire gel all of last year and its awesome, just keep laying down a good base and try and let it sit for a while before driving, best if left overnight ideally. Another thing is to keep using your same applicator and maybed when using some QD on your car take the applicator and just "even things out" with your applicator w/o applying any, there's usually enough on there from previous wipes, evens things out nicely!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

[nat88]

Thx for reply
Normally I use Karcher to remove stuffs before rinseless or waterless.

Just another question, if I want to apply sealant like WGPS 3.0 over Coating, will Coating Prep Polish remove 1st layer of coating?

Fuzion in forum and description, it's for all color hybrid wax. But do you have any experience it with palladium metallic silver? Looking for best deep wet color like the thread with Mercedes photos it's unreal but still try to find the best as much as possible.

For sealant, Black Label sealant (1 year but only 8oz) vs Wolfgang v3 (16 oz for 6 mo), is it real or not? Will Black Label be better than Deep Gloss Paint Sealant v3? For Wolfgang we have Spritz to maintain, but this we have small amount of coating shampoo.

Please advise. Thanks

[nat88]

I'll comment on the BF total eclipse tire gel. I've found that will tire gels you really need to lay down a good base, which ends up soaking into the rubber and thus doesn't wear down as much. I used BF Total Eclipse tire gel all of last year and its awesome, just keep laying down a good base and try and let it sit for a while before driving, best if left overnight ideally. Another thing is to keep using your same applicator and maybed when using some QD on your car take the applicator and just "even things out" with your applicator w/o applying any, there's usually enough on there from previous wipes, evens things out nicely!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

I did exactly as you mentionned, even more than that

I rub my tire not only 3 times, but more until there's only white buble from tire cleaning.

always apply it overnight or at least 1 day.

I think maybe it's the winter time and Total Eclipse is water=based, cannot handle winter's as well as in Florida

Thx for your comment

[nat88]

Update: before going to work, I decide to clean the hood with waterless.

Last night I try to test the hood with water, still beading and sheeting well then I went to bed. This morning, there still have a lot of water beating on the hood, not running down and make a lot of waterspots whereis not beading.

Spray well waterless then clean then buffing...afraid of waterspot will marring when buffing, in the end it's good. Shiny comes back, not rough on touch.

Heres' another question as above:

1. Is it worth to try small amount Black Label Sealant (1 year durability) vs Wolfgang WGPS v3 6 mo?

2. which one is the best for combination for palladium metallic silver (best deep wet)
- BL coating + Black Label (BL) Sealant => BL shampoo
- BL coating + WGPS v3 + Fuzion (not really sure if this is redundant or not?_) => Wofgang Spritz Sealant
- BL coating + your comment

Thx again for your time

[FUNX650]

I also find that the dressing on tires with Blackfire total eclipse gel, mostly gone.

^^^Happens a lot with water-based dressings being attacked by harsh Winter chemicals.^^^
They have to be re-freshed more often.

I just did Black Label Surface on my palladium metalic silver. It's great. but after 1 day of snows and road dust, salt, you can tell...the paint is very dirty.
I forget to mention that I prepare for coating over 4 days including polish, prep and coating. Coating time cure is about 48hrs in queen garage.

Due to temperature drops to under 30F, I could rinse my car by using only water pressure, then keep the car in the garage.

1 day later, the paint is not smooth anymore, it's rough, but water's beating and sheeting still there.

That's amazing that this 'Coating' still beads and sheets...even though it's not smooth.
(Additionally you say: it's rough at the present moment.)

then question is:

after coating, still we need to apply sealant and wax or not?

^^^Only if you want to "cover-up" the stated characteristics of the 'Coating'.^^^


Is coating really changing the world of detailing?

^^^In some aspects: (longevity, scratch resistance, ease of cleaning)...then probably.^^^

Bob

[spiralout462]

Update: before going to work, I decide to clean the hood with waterless.

Last night I try to test the hood with water, still beading and sheeting well then I went to bed. This morning, there still have a lot of water beating on the hood, not running down and make a lot of waterspots whereis not beading.

Spray well waterless then clean then buffing...afraid of waterspot will marring when buffing, in the end it's good. Shiny comes back, not rough on touch.

Heres' another question as above:

1. Is it worth to try small amount Black Label Sealant (1 year durability) vs Wolfgang WGPS v3 6 mo?

2. which one is the best for combination for palladium metallic silver (best deep wet)
- BL coating + Black Label (BL) Sealant => BL shampoo
- BL coating + WGPS v3 + Fuzion (not really sure if this is redundant or not?_) => Wofgang Spritz Sealant
- BL coating + your comment

Thx again for your time

1. The only thing I can add is: Just because the product description pages say X product will last X amount of time doesn't mean that is how long it will last on your car. There are many, many variables that determine how long an LSP will last.


2. I believe the "best combination" to increase the "deep wet look" you are looking for is machine polishing with a fine cut product and excellent technique. We all want to believe that a certain LSP will make a certain color look amazing. I reality it's the polishing step that determines the amount of gloss you can obtain. It's very difficult to tell the difference between LSPs on a properly prepped paint system.

Just my opinion of course.........