Help Replacing Pads

[AustrianOak82]

I would say in have used them maybe 10 times or so. Most of the cars I do I use a combo wax, so I use a green pad.

[SameGuy]

@AustrianOak: any update here? This does seem curious. Different brands and media shouldn't be deteriorating so rapidly, so I'd suspect it isn't a matter of defective pads/discs. IMO it either boils down to technique (including machine speed, weight and arm speed as well as amount of product) or an issue with the GG6 (bad backing plate as suggested, worn bearing, grease breakdown, who knows?) getting too hot.

I had one red Meg's cutting disc delaminate after about two years of moderate use, after I loaned it with a bunch of other stuff to a friend. I later learned (by seeing it for myself!) that he had been using way too much product and running the DA on maximum speed...

[BillE]

I would say in have used them maybe 10 times or so. Most of the cars I do I use a combo wax, so I use a green pad.

Only ten vehicles? Something is going on that ain't right.

I have black LC-CCS pads (going on 50+ vehicles)) that are a bit discolored (from cleaning etc) and the faces are worn some, but nothing like you are showing

I don't know what to say...maybe check and refine your process?

Keep us apprised of what happens.

Bill

[AGOatemywallet]

It's not the pads

It's your technique


Lots of things can contribute to overheating pads, causing them to collapse and/or the Velcro to fail

Too much pressure

Too much liquid

Too much machine speed

Using too few pads during a session

Etc.

[swanicyouth]

It's not the pads



It's your technique





Lots of things can contribute to overheating pads, causing them to collapse and/or the Velcro to fail



Too much pressure



Too much liquid



Too much machine speed



Using too few pads during a session



Etc.

I disagree - most pad failure is related to technique. But things you mentioned like how much polish , pressure, and machine speed you use I would describe as technique.

The other thing that makes pads fail is how you clean them. Putting pads in a washing machine is not great.

I've let Rupes and BnS pads sit in a bucket with pad cleaner for months, because I was too lazy to clean them - and they still work fine. LC pads - not so much. I've used older Megs pads that delaminated as well. You only get one chance with me.

I'd highly recommend Rupes or BnS pads. I believe they are just better than some others.

[Detail-Impressions]

Many great suggestions above. My question is the backing plate the correct size for the pad? My experience is to much product will first cause the center of the pad to cupped. If I continue without cleaning the pad and keep pouring produt onto the pad it will separate.

Yes manufactures had a learning curve, but have it figured out now. One panel stop and clean the pads and then a few pea sized dot of product.

There is no need to run the machine wide open as it builds heat quickly and all things repeat.

[AustrianOak82]

It's not the pads

It's your technique


Lots of things can contribute to overheating pads, causing them to collapse and/or the Velcro to fail

Too much pressure

Too much liquid

Too much machine speed

Using too few pads during a session

Etc.

With all due respect, It's not my technique. I only use the black pads for wax/sealant application, so I run my GG 6" at speed 3 and apply zero pressure. When using the orange or pink pads for paint correction, I typically run at a 4 or 4.5. I very rarely use 5 or 6 and if I do, it's to remove a single scratch. I usually use my 3" pads for this. I am not applying too much pressure, I have never run the machine where it even came close to bogging down. Usually light to moderate pressure. I typically use 4-5 pads per vehicle and I clean the pad after each panel. I put a small jesus fish line of polish on the pad for each smaller panel and areas like the hood are divided into halves or fourths.

Many great suggestions above. My question is the backing plate the correct size for the pad? My experience is to much product will first cause the center of the pad to cupped. If I continue without cleaning the pad and keep pouring produt onto the pad it will separate.

Yes manufactures had a learning curve, but have it figured out now. One panel stop and clean the pads and then a few pea sized dot of product.

There is no need to run the machine wide open as it builds heat quickly and all things repeat.

I use a 5 inch backing plate with 5.5 inch pads. I usually run at speed 4 or 4.5 for correction (see above reply).

[dlc95]

Here are the foam pads and one of the MF.

My grey ccs "flattened" out too. So did two of my orange, and two green ones. I don't think it's surface wear, but de-pressurization of the ccs dimple.

The reason for collapsing the foam cells as opposed to cutting grooves (like the hex faced pads) - my theory : The ccs treatment is pressed, or "debossed" into the foam, rather than cut into the foam. The idea is to collapse the cell walls of the foam in the dimples, as to slow the rate of polish/wax absorbance into depths of the pad. Theoretically releasing the liquid back onto the working surface as the machining process cycles through it's phase.

I don't believe it's beyond the realm of possibility that the foam could "bounce back" to it's original form, where it naturally wants to be.

I don't necessarily see this as a negative either. Especially with waxing pads, as they not subject to the intense speeds of compounding and polishing, where the dimples aide in heat reduction, and reduces surface tension, allowing for a smoother buffing experience.

[AGOatemywallet]

I disagree - most pad failure is related to technique. But things you mentioned like how much polish , pressure, and machine speed you use I would describe as technique.

What are you disagreeing with?

[AGOatemywallet]

Glad someone mentioned the length of hooks as a possibility

I used a 3" Rotary BP with an adapter on a DA with DA pads. The combo self-destructed the pads and the BP