Wolgang Uber Rinseless

[cyclops]

Really love Wolfgang Uber Rinseless. Use it as clay lube, occasional quick detailer and of course for rinseless wash.
Can't remember who but a regular on the forum uses it a s a window cleaner, must admit I tried it and liked it.

[Scoobertin]

I really like the rinseless mitts they sell here over the MF towels for a Rinseless wash. I have 2 mitts but need to buy 2 more. I recommend buying a few so you can do several washes before washing them. They are cheap and go on sale regularly here. I also use a rinse bucket, I use 2 gallons and 1/2 oz uber. The QD and waterless ratio make for a good drying aid after a full regular wash.

Not sure why they have two ratios for the waterless and the QD, they are so close to each other. It is just easier to mix the QD ratio and use it as a waterless.

[rajon]

Wow, thanks for all the replies. Instead of multi quoting I will just try to answer everything.

1. I am turning into a total Wolfgang fanboi as well. I am running out of things to buy.

2. For the process.
a. I used two buckets with grit guards. Rinse and solution. The directions did not explicitly state this but it seemed like good practice.
b. I used multiple wash mitts. I have, um, a lot of them. Particularly considering I only wash two cars.
c. I used cobra drying towels.
d. I went back over the car with a microfiber and some detailer spray just in case.
e. I washed the wheels with their own wash mitts (i keep them segregated)
f. I just put Meg's gold class on it by hand after it started raining because I am just going to tear it off in a week anyway.
g. once I pulled it in the garage I polished the wheels with the DP paste.

3. The wheels are polished and not painted. The posts are not painted. The wheel is a high pressure cast aluminium alloy that matches the physical makeup of a forged wheel. (I work for GM and have access to some rather interesting information)

4. This is my 5th Black car. (Sixth if you count dark gray as black) I have been searching for a car like this for a long, long time. Yes, I paid extra for the better black paint. (Stellar Black Metallic) As an aside my brother in law is the body manager at an assembly plant and he taught me a lot about paint. The cost for premium paint is proportionally low for the manufacturing and material cost. Always go with the upgraded paint ESPECIALLY if it is black or white.

So far I have
1. A Griot's Polisher (with the longer cord - worth the upcharge)
2. Woilfgang PP3, Auto Bathe, Uber Rinseless, pad conditioner and the clay kit
3. I Tried the DP wheel cleaner and polish and I really like it.
4. I lean on Blackfire interior cleaner and protector. It didn't do the best job on the antiqued bronze accents (or whatever they call them). I am trying to find out exactly what they are made of.
5. I have come to favor Lake County pads.
6. Someone here posted to get a lambs wool pad to put under microfiber bonnets. If you don't do it - it is brilliant.

I am just a hack. Really I just like my car to look right. Well I like it to look neck-snapping shiny and be so incredibly reflective that it is hard to see in bright sunlight because it just looks like everything around it, only darker.

People at work have started to ask me detailing questions after they find out that I wash my car myself. Most people lose interest after I say to never, EVER, go to an automatic wash. Seriously though, even before I knew what I didn't know I was scared of those things. I had a White Ranger in college that saw a lot of off-road time. I took it to a coin wash, used dawn and a sponge and then put NuFinish 2000 on it with an applicator I got at an auto parts store and buffed it off with old t shirts. It just seemed like the right thing to do. I have always used armorall religiously and my pleather has never cracked, my IPs don't fade. I am not on the level of anyone that posts here and I am so grateful that you guys give such wonderful information away.

I am a geek, nerd, dork - well engineer suffices - and I believe that owning a black car is a heavy responsibility. Any car is a responsibility but black shows every flaw and declares your attention to detail so loudly.

[Setec Astronomy]

3. The wheels are polished and not painted. The posts are not painted. The wheel is a high pressure cast aluminium alloy that matches the physical makeup of a forged wheel. (I work for GM and have access to some rather interesting information)

You're not saying they aren't painted, but that they are polished and only have clear? When you say "the posts are not painted" I'm presuming you mean that the barrels and back of the spokes are not painted, as on my GM "high polish" wheels which is what I'm presuming you have.

So between road salt, normal brake residue, and the black brake dust of my OEM pads, my barrels, which you can see clearly through the spoke openings, quickly turned to a horrible rough, stained surface that was impossible to clean or polish. Of course the backs of the spokes did, as well--which ultimately led to the failure of the clearcoat on the polished portions of the wheel from the corrosion getting under the edges of the paint.

I can only hear Bob Lutz asking for 50 cents more per wheel to clear the whole thing to uphold the "mark of excellence". Had the wheels refinished and they turned out horrible, sort of. I guess if you are only going to have the car for 3 years maybe you'll be fine. I guess this just peeves me because on my car these wheels were an extra cost option, how about charging $2 more and painting the backs? The thing that makes me laugh is these premium brands won't paint the barrels but 15 years ago Hyundai was doing it, I don't know about now.

[rajon]

You're not saying they aren't painted, but that they are polished and only have clear? When you say "the posts are not painted" I'm presuming you mean that the barrels and back of the spokes are not painted, as on my GM "high polish" wheels which is what I'm presuming you have.

So between road salt, normal brake residue, and the black brake dust of my OEM pads, my barrels, which you can see clearly through the spoke openings, quickly turned to a horrible rough, stained surface that was impossible to clean or polish. Of course the backs of the spokes did, as well--which ultimately led to the failure of the clearcoat on the polished portions of the wheel from the corrosion getting under the edges of the paint.

I can only hear Bob Lutz asking for 50 cents more per wheel to clear the whole thing to uphold the "mark of excellence". Had the wheels refinished and they turned out horrible, sort of. I guess if you are only going to have the car for 3 years maybe you'll be fine. I guess this just peeves me because on my car these wheels were an extra cost option, how about charging $2 more and painting the backs? The thing that makes me laugh is these premium brands won't paint the barrels but 15 years ago Hyundai was doing it, I don't know about now.

Ah, I do not know for certain. When I do finally take the two days to fully detail the car - probably in a week - I go so far as to put the car on jack stands and remove the wheels to clean and coat both sides. Also, I have the upgraded brakes that include the "Cadillac" branded calipers that look absolutely gorgeous without being garish. I am going to attempt to put some kind of coating on the face of the calipers as well.

I believe these wheels were dipped rather than sprayed. I saw some (obviously promotional) material on the factory the supplier bought and rebuilt to build GM wheels.

Johan is doing a good job with Cadillac.

[Setec Astronomy]

Also, I have the upgraded brakes

Do they still come with the free black brake dust?

Johan is doing a good job with Cadillac.

I'm actually really a die-hard GM guy, but my last one really had me doing a lot of head-scratching, but it's from the dark, pre-bankruptcy days. I have Bob Lutz's bean counter book, but I haven't read it yet--saw him on a show you may watch-- Autoline After Hours.

[rajon]

All brakes have dust but I think I know what you are insinuating. There are three brake packages available in the ATS line. The base brakes, which are fantastic and the Brembo packages. The lower one (which I have) have the upgraded calipers but solid rotors and high performance pads. The upgrade from that is slotted rotors and race ready pads. The thing that most customers miss is that the highest level brakes perform best at very high temperatures and that the average driver will never actually achieve the rotor temperatures required to reap the benefits. I have the mid level ones and of course brake dust will be a concern but after a week of driving I am pleased with the level or the DP coating really is that awesome.

Of little value; I sat next to Bob Lutz on a flight from Detroit to Boston once. He played brick breaker on a Blackberry for the entire flight.

Very technically speaking the post-bankruptcy GM is a separate legal entity but I am aware that I live in a strange place where everyone still giggles when they hear "Cadillac moved to New York" or the term "Chevy Engineer"

I hope it is a small comfort but the lady we have in charge now closed her state of the company with "Stop building crappy cars." We built really crappy cars for a long time.

[Setec Astronomy]

All brakes have dust but I think I know what you are insinuating.

Well, my car is pre-bankruptcy and has the JE5 brakes; the car easily has the best brakes of any car I've owned. However, the powers that be seemingly wanted the car to have awful black brake dust like a BMW. I literally would wash just the wheels because the rest of the car would still be clean and the wheels would be black. I eventually used a (detailing paint) coating on the wheels, and ultimately switched to Akebono Pro-Acts when the pads wore out--it's a night and day difference and I notice no decrease in braking performance, although I'm not autocrossing or anything.

Funny story, I changed the front pads first and the back wheels would turn black and the fronts would still be clean, it was that much of a difference. The other thing that is a little screwy, is the back rotors have a ground area much larger than the pad (not swept by the pad) which then rusts...and it just happens this is where the wear indicator rides...so after a few years the wear indicator is riding on the rust when you still have plenty of pad left.

We built really crappy cars for a long time.

I wouldn't go that far...but it was just little annoying things, like Buicks with carpeting that could hardly be called carpeting, more like a nice trunk liner, the aforementioned brake issue, and I used to grouse about the sunroof buttons on my car not being marked, and since I don't use the sunroof much, I would frequently push the wrong button. I used to think "how can they not mark these buttons?" Then one day I was trying to look at something on the back of the mirror--and I saw the sunroof buttons are marked! Except the markings point out the windshield where you can't possibly see them from the driver's seat, and then I realized that switch cluster came out of the parts bin from another vehicle. Not exactly the "Standard of the World".

Like I said before, don't take me the wrong way, I'm a die-hard GM guy, I even once visited GMI (back when it was still called that) and had intended to go there.